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Sportovní lezení v Rumunsku

Beta

Lezení v nevšedních oblastech stále přibývá. Obyčejné jejich nevšednost je přímo úměrná vzdálenosti, od centra Evropy tedy z Čech a pro řadu lezců cestovatelů tudíž nedostupné.

Nově objevený potenciál pro sápaly zdá se být Rumunsko a sice jeho severní část, která z Čech není tak vzdálena a ze Slovenska je jen coby kamenem dohodil.
Reliéf krajiny přechází od rovin až k 2500 m vysokým vrcholům, které jsou převážně tvořeny vápencem.


Historie a popis:
Lezecká historie se v Rumunsku datuje k začátku 20 století, v tuto dobu je ale orientována především na výstupy v Alpách, Kavkazu a jiné velehory.
Po politických změnách roku 1990, přichází plynulý nárůst počtu lezců a tvorba cest v Rumunských oblastech, sportovního charakteru. Až na současných X [8b].
Jedním z nejvýraznějších lezců je Olivier Batar, který začal psát historii sportovního lezení a na jehož pažbě jsou i nejhlubší zářezy v podobě nejtěžších cest v Rumunsku. Cesty jsou zajištěny v západním stylu a jsou po příjemně strukturovaném pevném vápenci.

Přístup:
Hlavním centrem pro oblast  Lacu Rosu - Cheile Bicazului je město Lacu Rosu  –  počáteční bod pro všechny turistické výlety v pohoří Hasmas. Lacu Rosu leží státní silnici DN 12C, která spojuje Bicaz a Gheorghieni. Na silnici se nachází také stěny Cheile Bicazului asi 8 km od vesnice Bicaz Chei a Lacu Rosu. Přístup do této oblasti je nejlepší autem právě z DN 12 C, ale je možný i vlakem z Bicazu či Gheorghieni.



Lezecké oblasti:
· Cheile Bicazului
· Herculane
· Cheile Turzii
· Sinaia


CHEILE BICAZULUI

Je asi nejlepší oblastí s nejkvalitnějším vápencovým lezením v pěkné přírodě. Díky obětavým lidem v průběhu posledních let vzniklo velké množství moderních sportovních cest a vytvořilo se zde jádro těžkého a kvalitního sportovního lezení. Oblast nabízí přes 300 cest v 10 sektorech zvaných zóny (přístup max. 5min). Klasifikace převažuje mezi stupni 8-9, ale je zde i velké množství cest pro začátečníky. Cesty jsou převážně v kolmých i převislých stěnách. Charakter lezení osciluje od lezení po malých škrabkách a dirkách až po lezení po hlubokých děrách v převisech. Skála je pevná a je tedy možné lézt, díky dobrému zajištění a slaňovacím řetězům na koncích cest, v bezpečí. Stačí 50m lano.


Ubytování

Je zde široký výběr od hotelů až po chat s možností stravování.


Sektory a Cesty

FALEZA ASCUNSA

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Coma  8  15 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
2  Euthanasia  9  15 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
3  Death Angel  8-  15 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 


ZONA "7 NOIEMBRIE"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Facelift  10/10+?  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2001 
2  Vertical  8  1 LC  Eduard Prosza  2001 
3  Autobiografie  10/10+?  10 m.  Oliver Batar  2001 

ZONA "HORNUL MARE"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Acces  6-  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
2  El Dorado  8  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
3  Desperado  8  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
4  T-Rex  8-/8  22 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
4  Denko  8-  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
5  Kuss-Kuss  8/8+  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
6  Kaua-Kaua  8-  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
7  Freestyler  9-/9  18 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
8  Pino  7/7+  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
9  Pinocchio  7  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
10  Pinball  9-  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
11  Gepetto  7+  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 

ZONA "GÂTUL IADULUI"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Straight Line  6  1 LC  Florian Mastacan, Viorel Tofan  2001 
2  Papaligal  6+  1 LC   
3  Direct Action  10-  22 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
4  Killer Edge  9+/10-  22 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
5  Metro  8-/8  25 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 
6  Take A Nap  8/8+  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2001 
7  Take A Break  9  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
8  Spiderman  9+/10-  18 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
9  Merda  7+  20 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 
10  Jumbo  8  18 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
11  Take Off  8  20 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 
12  Take A Beer  8+?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
13  Latin Express  7/7+  20 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 
14  Hopa Sus  7  20 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 

ZONA "LA IZVOR"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Acid Galactic  10-  16 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
2  Styks  7-  16 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
3  Du-ti Free  9-  16 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 

BOLOVANU LU CULITA

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Little Dick  8  10 m.   
2  Face To Ass  8+  10 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
3  Scarface  8+  11 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
4  7-Up  7  12 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 

ZONA "TURNUL NEGRU"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Arthur  9-  19 m.  Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan  2001 
1  Excalibur  7  19 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
3  Merlin  8?  19 m.  Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan  2001 
4  Arnold  7-  20 m.  Casian Sanduta  1991 

ZONA "CASUTE FISURA NEAGRA"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Fete de Fete  6  15 m.   
2  Baga Dreapta  7/7+  20 m.   
3  Albinutza  7+?  15 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
     
FALEZA "K2"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  G-Force  10-?  25 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
2  Breakdance  9+/10-  25 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
3  Mambo  9-  25 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
4  Dirtydance  8+  25 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza, Viorel Tofan  2000 
5  Rocada  9-/9  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2001 
6  Asfalt Tango  9-  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2001 
7  Painkiller  9+/10-  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2000 
8  Matrix  9  1 LC  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
9  Adelante  9-  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
10  Insomnia  10-  25 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
11  Super Nova  9+  25 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
12  Nova  9  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
13  Stairway To Heaven  7+  20 m.  Florian Mastacan  2001 
14  Chic  8?  10 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 

FALEZA "SCORPION"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Fresh & Free  9-  16 m.  Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan  2001 
2  Scorpionul  7+?  25 m.  Francisc Heghedusz  1989 
3  Lucky Strike  9  16 m.  Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan  2001 

FALEZA "RAZA SOARELUI"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Martin  7+  20 m.  Michael Bucholtzer  1991 
2  Minerul Max  8  25 m.  Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu  2001 
3  Ave Maria Max  8  25 m.  Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu  2001 
4  Morpheus  8  15 m.  Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta  1991 
5  Calypso  8  15 m.  Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta  1991 
6  Poseidon  8  15 m.  Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta  1991 
7  Kamikaze  9-  25 m.  Gabi Tofan  1991 
8  Hellspown  8+?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
9  Borobox  8/8+?  20 m.  Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu  2001 
10  Cap Horn  7/7+  25 m.  Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu  2001 
11  OK! My Brother  7+  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
12  Glissando  9+  25 m.  Viorel Tofan  1991 
13  Natural Blues  8-/8?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2001 
14  Saridon  7+?  15 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2001 
15  Relax  7-  15 m.  Dan Duta  1991 
16  Delta  7?  15 m.  Dan Duta  1991 
17  LH  7  2 LC  Liviu Horga  1991 
18  Miana  7+  20 m.  Simion Poiana, Lucian Mihai  1992 
19  Ioana  6+  2 LC  Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu  1978 
20  Sarpele  6  25 m.  Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu  1978 
21  Ela  8-/8  25 m.  Simion Poiana, Dan Duta  1991 
22  Warm Up  5+  25 m.  Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu  1978 
23  Lynx  7  25 m.  Simion Poiana, Dan Duta  1991 
24  Pas Final  7  25 m.  Gabi Tofan, Simion Poiana  1991 
25  Caruta cu Fraieri  7+  25 m.  Simion Poiana, Dan Duta  1991 
26  Prietenia  8?  1 LC  Viorel Tofan  2001 
27  Happy End  9?  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2001 
28  Broad Peak  8  10 m.  Simion Poiana, Florin Botescu  1992 
29  No More PC  8-?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2001 
30  Secret Ground  8?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2001 
31  Body & Soul  8-/8  16 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
32  Rotpunkt  7  25 m.   
33  Red Alert  8  16 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 

Kdo by  se chtěl dovedět více či si zajistit ubytování a další služby nechť smělě kontaktuje Oliviera Batara,Š neboť on je tvůrcem řady cest, průvodců a jeho živností je cestovní kancelář pro lezce v jeho zemi.
Jemu děkuji i za podrobné informace.
oliver_climb@yahoo.com

JirkaS   [úpravy] 10:48 05.04.2002Tisk 

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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 08:22:32 18.01.2020
 eridanuspills.com
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 20:19:30 18.01.2020
 carolseo27.exblog.jp
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 03:43:05 20.01.2020
 eridanuspills.com
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 18:53:56 29.01.2020
 eridanuspills.com
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 19:18:39 30.01.2020
 eridanuspills.com
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 21:39:03 02.02.2020
 goodways.site
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 12:29:41 14.02.2020
 goodways.site
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 00:13:46 15.02.2020
 RjjvXcCuIfR
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Zapsal: pPaJZYpDOkamAZ, 09:24:35 25.09.2020
 zTBKHsOQMRo
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Zapsal: zGeUnYIVeXDCpeBcJI, 12:47:55 18.11.2020


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