V polovině března se mi zdála být zima už dost dlouhá a tak jsem se rozhodla, že si ji trochu zkrátím výletem s kamarády do Calanques. Volba oblasti se ukázala být jako velmi dobrá, neboť zatímco vytrvalý déšť způsoboval záplavy v severní Francii, u Marseille bylo nádherně teplo a slunečno. Jeden den dokonce teplota vystoupila ke 28 stupňům celsia a tak jsme toho využili a vyměnili lezení na pár hodin za osvěžující plavání v průzračných vodách Středozemního moře.
Zájezd jsme pojali odpočinkově a místo dobývání těžkých cest jsme se věnovali spíše poznávání oblasti a okolních krás marseillského pobřeží. A tak vám, kteří nepátráte po pokořených číslicích francouzské klasifikace, nabízím popis Calanques, které jistě stojí za to navštívit.
[přeloženo z francouzských webů a doplněno o osobní zkušenosti]
Les Calanques ( Kalánky ) v sedmdesátých letech byly významnou lezeckou oblastí. Světoví lezci jako Gaston Rebuffat či George Livanos zde trénovali v zimě před významnými výstupy v Alpách. Nyní již Calanques mají zřejmě velkou slávu za sebou. Ve Francii jsou objevovány stále nové a nové skalní oblasti, v jejichž stínu věhlas Calanques pomalu zaniká.
Masiv Calanques se nalézá na malém kousku marseillského pobřeží uchráněným před urbanistickou zástavbou. Je tvořen pohořím s nejvyšší horou (Mont Puget) 584 m klesající strmě ke Středozemnímu moři a zářící bílými roztroušenými stěnami, které vytváří rozeklané zákruty s jeskyněmi a přírodními plážemi.To vše jen pár kilometrů od rušného města Marseille.
Calanques se řadí svou 15 km délkou a 5 km šířkou k nejmohutnějším lezeckým terénům Francie. Celý masiv nabízí více než 100 km cest různých obtížností. Klima je také pozoruhodné. Prší zde vůbec nejméně z celé Francie (jen 50 dešťových dní v roce) a deštivo je více na podzim. Na zdejším odlišném klimatu se podílí zejména Mistral, nepravidelný severní vítr, který v zimě může být nejen silný ale i studený. V létě s sebou přináší horko, které odradí i ty největší teplomily.
Tipy:
Bivakování je zakázáno dokonce i bez stanu, ale v zimních měsících se zdá být tolerováno. Po celou dobu jsme stavěli stany a nesetkali jsme se s problémy.
Pro většinu francouzských oblastí platí nenechávat naprosto žádné věci v autě. I přesto, že jsme žádné negativní skutečnosti nezaznamenali, raději případné nenechavce nepokoušejte a berte si cennosti s sebou. Na francouzských serverech dokonce nabádají k užívání výhradně hlídaných parkovišť případně k zaparkování auta ve městě a užití městské hromadné dopravy k cestě do oblasti.
Vezměte si dostatek vody. Je zapotřebí dovést vodu již z města! Voda ve studnách malých pobřežních vesniček (např. v Morgiou) vám svou mírně slanou chutí jasně připomína přítomnost moře.
Popis a charakteristika jednotlivých sektorů:
Některé ze stěn se nacházejí přímo nad mořem.Často mají bizarní tvary a uchovaný divoký ráz. Je zde mnoho odlišných sektorů, některé z nich připomínají spíše lehký horský lezecký terén a nabízí i více délkové cesty a nezřídka i s obtížným přístupem a relativně starým a nepříliš důvěryhodným zajištěním.
Cassis je nejkrásnější místo Kalánek. To se samozřejmě odráží i v počtu turistů, kteří jej každoročně navštíví.
Sormiou nabízí dobře odjištěné lezeni přímo nad morem.
Grande Candelle, díky své horší dostupnosti je často bez lezců a také nabízí pěkné cesty. Není však (až na některé sektory) nejpříhodnější cílem pro sportovní lezení. Naproti tomu ale nabízí nádherné klima a dobrodružné lezení v divoké přírodě.
"A" počet cest pod 20.
"B" počet cest mezi 20 a 40.
"C" počet cest nad 40.
Typ cest:
"přev" : převislé -
"kol" : kolmé a položené.
"mp" : více délkové < 4 délky
"MP" : více délkové < 4 délky
"adv" : divočinka
Sektor
Podsektor
Směr
typ
Obtížnost
Charakteristika
Morgiou
Abri côtier
A
JZ
kolmice
3 až 7a+
Skutečně příjemný sektor v blízkosti port de Morgiou
Luminy
Aiguille Sugiton
B
JZ
kolmice/mp
4b až 7a
Několik nádherných linií a stěna s krásným vzhledem na moře
Luminy
Aiguille Sugiton
A
JV
kolmice/mp
3 až 7a
Převážně položené - brzy ve stínu
Sormiou
Apanaou
A
JZ
kolmice
3 až 5c
Malý sektor k dosažení od- Tiragne asi 5min
Goudes
Alpinodrome
A
V
kolmice/převislá
5c až 7b
Sektor se staršími cestami a možnostmi traverzů
Sormiou
Arche perdue
A
SZ
kolmice
4 až 6c
Příjemný přístup, cesty brzy ve stínu
Morgiou
Baumettes
A
JZ
kolmice
4 až 7a+
Lehká oblast s cestami od 5b-5c
Goudes
Bonne mere
A
JZ
mp
5a až 7a+
Několik zajímavých dlouhých cest
Sormiou
La bougie
B
J
kolmice/mp
5b až 7c
Velká stěna s výhledem na moře ne příliš frekventovaný sektor
Morgiou
Cabanons
B
V
kolmice/převislá
5b až 8a+
Stěna ve stínu spíše pro silné lezce
Morgiou
Cancéou
A
Z
kolmice/MP
5 až 6b
Skvělé nezapomenutelné cesty
Luminy
Candelle
A
J
kolmice/MP/adv
4 až 7b+
Několik zajímavých cest chráněných před mistralem
Gardiole
Castelvieil
A
JZ
kolmice/MP/adv
5 až 6c
Divoký a dobrodružný sektor
Luminy
Cathédrale
A
J
kolmice
6a až 8a
Velkolepé linie 40m , kde je dobře být v dobré mentální kondici
Sormiou
Col de Sormiou
A
S a J
kolmice
3 až 5c
Krátký přístup 10 sec
Sormiou
Colline de Lun
C
Z a J
kolmice/převislá
4 až 7c+
Přírodně divoké s množstvím zajímavých cest částečně chráněných před mistralem
Luminy
Concave
A
Z
kolmice/převislá/MP/adv
4 až 7b+
Nádherné linie na kameny, mýtické cesty
Sormiou
Conglue
A
JZ
kolmice/mp
4 až 5c
Sektor nabízející více délkové cesty (2délky)
Morgiou
Cret St Michel
B
Z a JZ
kolmice/MP
4 až 7c
Pěkné délky chráněné před Mistrálem
Gardiole
Devenson
A
J
kolmice/MP/adv
5 až 6b
Magické místo pro amatéry s několika atletickými cestami
Sormiou
Diedre Guem
A
JV
kolmice/mp
3 až 4
Stěny ideální pro soft-movery
Gardiole
Eissadon
A
JZ
kolmice/MP
4 až 6b
Super rozvržené místo daleko od civilizace
Gardiole
Eissadon
A
J
kolmice/MP/adv
4 až 6a
Příjemný lehčí sektor
Gardiole
En Vau
C
všechno
kolmice/MP/mp
3 až 7b
Magické místo občas olezené chyty
Goudes
Face sud
B
J
kolmice/mp
4 až 6c
Několik stěn směrujících k moři chráněných před Mistrálem
Goudes
Escalier géant
B
JVE a JZ
kolmice
4 až 7a+
Sympatické skály lehké cesty jsou ojeté
Marseilleveyre
Fontaine d'ivoire
B
SV
kolmice/převislá
6b až 7c+
Ne příliš hezké skály přesto několik pěkných cest
Goudes
Grotte de l'ermite
A
JZ
převislá
6a+ až 8b+
Opravdu hezké cesty vyhrazené převážně silným lezcům
Goudes
Grotte de l'ermite
A
SZ
kolmice/mp
4c až 8a+
Divoké skaly s nevelkým počtem cest
Luminy
Grotte de l'ours
B
JV
kolmice/převislá
6a až 8c
Osm céčka a mnohé jiné pěkné cesty
Sormiou
Ilette
A
JV
kolmice/převislá
5b až 7b
Malý sektor v borovicovém lesíku kousek od moře
Goudes
Lapinodrome
A
JV
kolmice
4 až 6b
Malý sektor ne příliš frekventovaný
Sormiou
Leche cu
A
JV
kolmice/převislá
6c až 8a
Nový sektor ne ještě všechny cesty jsou očištěny
Sormiou
Lou spigaou
A
V
kolmice
4 až 6b+
Malý sektor bez ochrany stínu
Sormiou
Lui d'Ai
A
JV
kolmice/mp
4 až 7a+
Super pár metrů od moře, chráněné před větrem
Marseilleveyre
Massilia
B
SZ
kolmice
4 až 6b
Pěkné lehké cesty výhled na Marseille
Marseilleveyre
Metalika et Mitre
A
Z
kolmice
5c+ až 7b
Není známo
Sormiou
Momie
B
V
kolmice/MP
5a až 7b
Stín velkou část dne pár zajímavých linií
Luminy
Oasis
A
JZ
převislá
6b až 8a+
Pár nových těžkých cest
Oule
Oule
A
J
kolmice/MP/adv
5c až 6c
Pěkné cesty jsou ojeté
Marseilleveyre
Paragon
A
Z a SZ
kolmice
4 až 7b
Pár zajímavých cest
Marseilleveyre
Palais d'été
A
SZ
kolmice/převislá
6b až 7c+
Super kolmé i převislé
Goudes
Paroi jaune
A
JZ
kolmice
6a+ až 7c
Vertikální stěny a cesty délky až 35 m
Luminy
Paroi des toits
C
JZ
kolmice/převislá
5c až 8b
Skvělé cesty několik nových
Marseilleveyre
Pastré
C
SZ
kolmice
4 až 7a
Skaly s panoramatickým výhledem na městečko
Luminy
Pierres tombées
B
J
kolmice/mp
5b až 7c
Krásné okolí chráněné před větrem v blízkosti moře
Sormiou
Pinede
A
Z
kolmice
4 až 6c
Malý sektor
Gardiole
Port Miou
A
JZ
kolmice
5b až 7a
Malý sektor bez ochrany před Sluncem
Morgiou
Radeau
A
J
kolmice
5a až 6c+
Mikro sektor s pěkným prostředím
Marseilleveyre
Ragga wall
A
Z
kolmice
5c až 7a+
Pár krásných cest v této malé oblasti část dne je ve stínu
Morgiou
Falaise du renard
A
V
kolmice/mp
5a až 6c
Viditelný markantní zářez s 3 zajímavými cestami
Marseilleveyre
Roy d'espagne
C
Z
kolmice
3 až 8a
Skála s mnoha cestami a blízkostí osídlení
Sormiou
Rumpe cuou
A
JZ
kolmice/mp
3 až 6a
Příjemné cesty pro start ve velkých stěnách
Luminy
JVcle candelle
C
JJZ
všechno
4 až 7c+
Dlouhé cesty zleva chráněné před Mistrálem
JVrmiou
Tete melette
A
J
kolmice/mp
5c až 6b
Malý sektor s 2-3 délkovými cestami a nějaké bouldery na tření
Marseilleveyre
Tete mounine
A
JV
kolmice/MP/adv
5b až 6b
Několik cest chráněno stromy - chráněno před větrem
Sormiou
Tiragne
C
JZ a J
kolmice/mp
4 až 7b+
Krásná oblast mnoho cest
Morgiou
Triperie
B
Z
kolmice/převislá/mp
6a až 8b
Pár krásných cest v oblasti- přístup slaněním, morálová
Reportik je fakt vybornej, ale jen by mne zajimalo, kolik takova cesta do Calanques stoji. Jo Francie je prece jen Francie,takze se to asi kapku prodrazi ne? Dikes za odpoved jinak taky davam pet hvezdicek.
cena dost zavisi na tom jak ziznive je auto a kolik clenu posadky se sklada na benzin, ale v zasade pri naplneni auta by se cena za jednoho nemela presplhat pres dav tisice a to se vsemi dalnicnimi poplatky.
Predm se omlouvam za chybejici hackocarky. Kalanky jsou bezva a nadherny to se musi nechat. V lete ovsem maji jednu velkou nevyhodu a to hrozici pozary kvuli kterym se velka cast uzemi uzavira popripade se pristup omezuje, coz znamena az moc velke problemy pro lezce, co zde chteji travit delsi dobu.
Zapsal: Michal, 13:36:35 28.10.2002
*****
Dobra prace Jano
Zapsal: Ondra, 15:46:02 28.10.2002
v létě ne
Kalánky jsou parádní, v létě ale mají dvě výrazné nevýhody-lézt se dá jen na návětrné straně, jinak na stěnách schovaných před vánky (i vichry-slavný MISTRÁL) z moře se lézt kvůli vedru nedá, no, a pro mě největší nepříjemnost-děsné davy turistů a to i mimo sezónu v září či červnu. Uvítal bych popis fotek, zvláště stěna na té poslední, tu neznám, v save as.. se mi objevilo PAROITS, to je v které části?
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V polovině března se mi zdála být zima už dost dlouhá a tak jsem se rozhodla, že si ji trochu zkrátím výletem s kamarády do Calanques. Volba oblasti se ukázala být jako velmi dobrá, neboť zatímco vytrvalý déšť způsoboval záplavy v severní Francii, u Marseille bylo nádherně teplo a slunečno. Jeden den dokonce teplota vystoupila ke 28 stupňům celsia a tak jsme toho využili a vyměnili lezení na pár hodin za osvěžující plavání v průzračných vodách Středozemního moře.
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