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Kategorie:
 Lezení na Kokořínsku
O naší sobotní výpravě za pískovcem na Kokořínsko, která díky špatnému spojení skončila málem ledovou smrtí.
Komentáře (1034)30.09.2002... celý článek
 Neuville sur Ain
Během naší cesty jsme navštívili další příjemnou oblast, na kterou bych rád upozornil všechny milovníky francouzského vápna. A sice na přívětivé Neuville sur Ain.
Komentáře (1)30.09.2002... celý článek
 Nový boulder v Labáku
Nový boulder vzniknul na pravém břehu v Labáku. Jeho název je Autoportrét, obtížnost 8B Fb. Najdete ho v údolí Suché Kamenice (za Toreadorem) na blok Lesní vzduch.
Komentáře (8)30.09.2002... celý článek
 Doping
DIURETIKA

Diuretika ovlivňují množství vylučované moči a přímo působí na ledviny. Blokují zpětnou resorpci vody v tubulech a tím způsobují ztráty tekutin v hodnotách až několika litrů denně. V lékařství se používají k léčení vysokého krevního tlaku a při nadměrném zadržování tekutin v těle.
Ve sportu se diuretika používají ve sportech s váhovými kategoriemi, box, judo, zápas, vzpírání, a ve sportech, kde je výhodná nižší tělesná hmotnost. Kromě jezdectví to může být i lez
Komentáře (89)26.09.2002... celý článek
 Lezení v Sasku
Tak jako má Schmilka svůj velký stein Rauschenstein nebo Malý Zschand svůj Heringstein nebo Schrammsteiny svůj Falkenstein, mají i Affensteiny svůj Frienstein. Také je velice rozlehlý, ale výškou svých stěn nepřesahuje třicet a možná i méně metrů. I přesto, že stojí na kraji vysokého masívu, na který se však neleze. Kromě malého kousku jej lze celý pohodlně obejít. Z míst poblíž kraje masívu se nabízí krásný výhled do širokého údolí K
Komentáře (39)25.09.2002... celý článek
 Doping
ANABOLICKÉ LÁTKY

Biochemické procesy v organismu rozdělujeme na katabolické a anabolické. Při dějích anabolických probíhá výstavba nových tkání, při katabolických naopak. Anabolické procesy způsobují anabolické látky a právě ty jsou v současné době v dopingu závažným problémem. Můžeme je rozdělit na anabolické androgenní steroidy a na ostatní anabolické látky.
Proč jsou zneužívány androgenní steroidy? Již dříve si lidé všimli, že varlata zodpovídají za rozvoj sekundárních
Komentáře (1222)24.09.2002... celý článek
 Expedice Teng Kang Poche
V úterý 1. října odlétá z Frankfurtu malá Česko - Slovenská Expedice Teng Kang Poche 2002.
Komentáře (1182)24.09.2002... celý článek
 Pálava
Bývala to tradice - podzimní zájezdy spojené s návštěvou vinných sklípků jižní Moravy.
Komentáře (162)23.09.2002... celý článek
 Doping
STIMULANCIA

Používají se pro povzbuzení, pro potlačení únavy, zvýšení soutěživosti a agresivity. Mezi nejběžnější patří kofein, kokain, amfetamin, efedrin a pseudoefedrin.

AMFETAMINY: Mají podobný účinek i strukturu jako tělu vlastní hormon adrenalin. Ten je v těle vylučován v případě ohrožení  a zvyšuje krevní tlak, srdeční frekvenci a  připravuje tělo na útěk či boj. Tyto látky byly zneužívány k dopingu jako jedny z prvních. Jsou zaznamenány četná úmrtí,
Komentáře (688)19.09.2002... celý článek
 Doping a lezení?
Otevírám na Lezci nové téma a byl bych rád, kdyby se k němu lépe informovaní vyjádřili, zejména trenéři a závodníci. Lezení na špičkové úrovni je sport jako každý jiný. V honbě za úspěchem jsou někteří sportovci ochotni použít zakázané prostředky. Co je tedy doping?
1. užití prostředku (látky nebo metody), který je potencionálně škodlivý zdraví sportovců nebo je schopný zvýšit jejich výkon, nebo obojí.
2. Přítomnost zakázané látky v těle sportovce nebo důkaz o jejím užití nebo důka
Komentáře (51)18.09.2002... celý článek
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Lezení na Kokořínsku

O naší sobotní výpravě za pískovcem na Kokořínsko, která díky špatnému spojení skončila málem ledovou smrtí.

Lezení na Kokořínsku:

Jednou o víkendu jsme se rozhodli vyrazit, někam do skal na pískovec si zalézt. Docela jsme bloumali, kam by jsme se mohli mrknout. Padaly různé návrhy (Prachovky, Labák..atd.) nakonec jsme se rozhodli jet tam, kde jsme ještě nikdy v životě nebyli a kde jsme to vůbec, ale vůbec neznali (toho teďka docela lituji). Rozhodli jsme se jet na Kokořínsko.
Akce začala v sobotu ráno, když jsme se (já s tátou) sešli s Petrem, který přijel až z Brna
Dali jsme si sraz na nádraží v Holešovicích, odkud nám jel v 8:30 autobus do Kokořínské metropole Mšena u Mělníka. Cesta byla celkem dlouhá, protože autobus podivně křižoval polabskou Mělnickou krajinou. Ani nám to tak nevadilo, protože jsme celé 2hodinky koukali z okna na následky povodní…


Když jsme konečně dorazili do Mšena a plni optimizmu vystoupili z autobusu byl hlavní úkol jasný: Najít cestu do skal. Neměli jsme průvodce a ani mapu, takže to byl nelehký úkol. Nakonec jsme se dali po zelené, která nás zavedla do kokořínského skalního údolí. Skály byly menší, ale hlavně že byly. Když už jsme šli údolím hodinu a v nohách už byl nějaký ten kilometr a solidní skála byla v nedohlednu, rozhodli jsme se zeptat jednoho dědy, co pracoval na zahrádce. Zeptali jsme se kde je nějaká lepší skalka. Poradil nám známé kokořínské „pokličky“. Řekli jsme si proč ne, mrknem se na ně. Když jsme vyšlápli celkem obstojný kopec, který k „Pokličkám“ vedl spatřili jsme dvě zvětralé 5ti metrové věžičky, jejichž povrch připomínal hrubostí spíše hrubozrnný beton. Navíc byl na turistické tabuli nápis, že skalky se pro jejich unikátnost nesmějí lézt. Neztráceli jsme ale hlavu a vydali se směr Dubá, kde se měli nacházet desítky věží.
Cesta nebyla opět nejkratší, ale hřála nás na srdci útěcha toho, že si snad už doopravdy zalezeme.
Nakonec jsme našli pár opuštěných pěkných věžiček, které se daly lézt. Byly zajištěné a měly i vrcholovou knížku. Pískovec byl už oproti „Pokličkám“ jemnozrnný a dalo se normálně dobře lézt.


Čas bohužel rychle ubíhal a nám jel v 18:00 vlak směr Praha. Tento vlak jsme ale už nestihli, za což jsme pak byli krutě potrestáni. Zjistili jsme totiž, že ten den už žádný vlak směr Praha nejel a jediný který tam odtud jel byl vlak směr Mladá Boleslav. Z pokojného městečka Mšeno se pak stala krutá past. Nechtěli jsme čekat a jeli jsme teda do Mladé Boleslavi, kde jsme si naivně mysleli, že nám něco do Prahy pojede. Bohužel první autobus směr Praha jel až v 5:00 ráno, takže jsme museli na něj 8 hodin čekat. Petr čekal jenom o něco míň, protože mu to jelo přes Olomouc do Brna v 3:30. Připadali jsme si jako praví somráci. Byla hrozná zima a jediným zdrojem pomyslného tepla byl nedaleký kanál, ze kterého se linula odporně páchnoucí, ale teplá pára.
Ani už nevím, jak jsme to tam těch 8 hodin vydrželi, ale pak po návratu domů jsem celou neděli prospal.

Fajn akce.

Bilancování:

Kokořínsko je docela pěkná přírodní oblast s menšíma skalkama. Je zde hodně Boulderů… Najdou se zde i věší věže.
Zásadní nevýhodou je velmi špatné spojení, o kterém jsme se měli možnost na vlastní kůži přesvědčit (sáhla na nás ledová smrt!)
Lezeckých možností je tu docela dost, ale nikdy do těchto krajů raději nejezděte bez průvodce, nebo mapy!

Jarda Kukla   [úpravy] 21:21 30.09.2002Tisk 

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 Co je to za trotly?
Vy jste teda případi. Bez průvodce a bez mapy. V oblasti Kokořínska se dá nalézt i spousta stěn s délkou přes dvacet metrů. To už je na bouldrování jak píšeš trochu moc. Každopádně zdejší písek patří snad k tomu nejměkčímu co u nás je. A jestli jste tam lezli za mokra jste pěkný dobytci. Howgh
Zapsal: HUGO, 07:57:17 01.10.2002
 re Hugo
hele, hugo, já netvrdím, že bylo mokro, byl jsem na druhým konci republiky, já akorát pochybuju, že bylo sucho. V Praze teda aspoň ještě v pátek docela silně zapršelo.
Re bída: každému jeho nebe. pro mne je zase naprostá zoufalost a poslední krok před povedenou sebevraždou jet lézt do labáku bez zdatného vyvaděče, páč zajistitelný a hezký šestky by tam jeden spočítal na prstech starýho dřevorubce. Ale třeba se pletu.
Zapsal: Lukas B., 10:31:18 01.10.2002
 it´s crazy
Byl jsem tam jen jednou a to v nějakým 90-tým. V létě se nám tam podařil horám zdar. Kvalita skály stojí za prd a tak jsme se raději jeli opít na fesťák do Holan.
re Bída: Máš recht.
Zapsal: Pták, 11:15:11 01.10.2002
 re magnusek
ale né, já labák nezavrhuju, strašně se mi tam líbí. jenom si tam moc s mojí velmi nízkou výkonností nezalezu. A jet tam s tím, že pod 70ti metrovejma stěnama polezu normálky na desetimetrový čudly se mi moc nechce. A lézt tam furt dokola těch pár hezkej lehčích cest se mi moc nechce.
Zapsal: Lukas B., 12:05:17 01.10.2002
 Kvalita vs. romantika
Písek měkčí, ale ta romanťika. Nikde nikdo, zapálíš vohýnek pod převisem, buřta vopečeš. A třeba taká Rač nebo Roklice se dají.

BH Papouš
Zapsal: Papouš, 12:10:22 01.10.2002
 Sobecký romantik
Papouši, ty děláš oheň v chráněných územích, to by tam ochranáři taky mohli zakázat lezení. Snad tam taky neporušuješ slavná pravidla?
Zapsal: Fery, 12:36:50 01.10.2002
 Kokořínsko je přepěkné
Písek je pravda trošku měkčí, ale za to nádherný. Musí se lézt opravdu za sucha protože ty skály jsou pokryté takovým slizem, který když uschne je ta skála jako beton. No a chce to lézt s citem a nervat to za jeden prst. Lezete li tam pak vás všude jinde kromě Broumovek deptají ty davy turistů. No a také není potřeba maglajz protože pavučiny působí podobně. Vadí to jen těm co mají rachnu. čus Daja
Zapsal: David A., 12:41:56 01.10.2002
 Kokořinsko
To, ze jste lezli v sobotu na Kokorinsku je opravdu prasarna. Na Prachove kvuli pocasi zrusili premosteni a to je Prachov oproti Kokorinsku pomalu beton. Navic, kdyz nejaky takovyhle chytrak preleze cestu v tomhle pocasi, tak druhej si tu cestu uz nemusi vylezt, protoze se nema ceho drzet.
Zapsal: Petr Koreček, 13:48:20 01.10.2002
 !!PRO UJASNĚNÍ!!
Tenhle víkend jsme také byli na Kokořínsku. Je to tam moc pěkné. Sory, ale nechápu takový, co tu něco plácaj a přitom ani vlastně ¨nevědi o čem mluví (tím myslím příspěvky výše). Na Kokořínsku bylo totiž sucho!!!! Chtěl bych vás vidět, jak by jste tam lezli za mokra! Ze skal se stane klouzačka.
Krom toho je tam krásně a je na každém, kam chce jít lézt!
Za prasata označuji ty, co píší proti autorům tohodle článku, protože zdřejmě nevědi o čem mluví.
Zapsal: Jan Loubek, 15:55:59 01.10.2002
 Kuklo,
i ten nejvetsi idiot by mel vedet, ze po tejdnu chcani bude pisek mokrej. Vas "krutej" nocleh patri vam ! Spis nez jako pravi somraci mi pripadate jako nefalsovany neknubove.
Zapsal: retez, 16:21:02 01.10.2002
 Sucho?
O víkendu jsem byl na Suškách. Ještě v neděli tam bylo se severu v dolních partiích stěn trochu vlhko, z jihu a na hřebenu to bylo suché. Jo a v sobotu ráno na Hrubé Skále drobně pršelo. A jak pršelo ve dnech před víkendem je asi zbytečné psát.

Kokořínsko je od Českého ráje tak 30 - 40 km ve směru na západ. Skály většinou v lese. O víkendu bylo chladno, prostě žádný fén.

No já o té suchosti na Kokořínsku tento víkend hodně a hodně pochybuji.

Tomas, HO Sakal
Zapsal: Tomas, 16:48:41 01.10.2002
 
A nepatří tam také Dubské skály, tam co působili noční lezci Coubalovci. Tam je to hnusný, třeba v Loubenském dole. Osolená police, přesah přes něco 0,8 m a zase osolená police a tak dál až nahoru. A ten klid u silnice, bomba. Na Vlhošti vam zas dravy vzácný ptak mozkodlabák vyklofne půl roku voko. Není to nudná oblast. Když to srovnám s tím výletem na Kokořín.
Zapsal: Nula, 16:48:52 01.10.2002
 Pro vyvrácení pár omylů a zmatků...
Tak jo, koukám že tu zase někdo rozdává rozumy, aniž by věděl podrobnosti o naší akci. Je to HNUS co tu někteří o nás píší. Měli by jste se stydět!!!
Jeli jsme tam v sobotu, to je fakt. Skály byly relativně suché, jenom místy vlhké a tam nna těch vlhkých se stejně pro velkej "sliz" nedalo lézt. Krom toho jsme za to krátké odpoledne stihli jenom 3 věžičky, které neměli víc, než 7m. Dokonce na dvou jsme měli "Horám zdar 2002" a na té třetí tam byl před náma jenom jeden zápis v roce 2002. Pochybuji, že jsme nějak skálu poškodili. Dost se divím však některým zvás, jak nás nechutně odsoudili! To jste horolezci?! Mě spíše připomínáte pavlačové drbny, které z nudy pomlouvají. Najděte si raději jinou práci, než pomlouvat druhé!
Tento článek byl určen hlavně těm, co je zajímá jak to na Kokořínsku vypadá.
PS: Ty fotky nejsou naše. Jsou stažené z jiného sereru, kdše je nikdo vyfotil za deštiva.
Zapsal: Jarda.K., 17:12:49 01.10.2002
 
Stydet se nebudu. Pocitam-li spravne, tak jste tam meli jet az dnes. Veta "skaly byly relativne suche jenom misty vlhke" me fakt bavi. Da se tomu rozumet jako "je to trochu mokry, ale kdyz uz jsme tady, tak si taky zalezeme", ze ?

Zapsal: retez, 17:33:46 01.10.2002
 
Hm, myslel jsem, že jde o lezeckej server a ne o server detajlistů a přiblblejch hledačů chyb!
Zapsal: Jarda, 18:50:10 01.10.2002
 Second servis
Kajicne vyklizeni prostoru vypada myslim jinak, nez jak to predvedl Jarda K. Zkus to, prosim, znovu, mista je tu dost.
Zapsal: Magnusek, 11:12:10 02.10.2002
 Mystifikace
Ty vole, já si to přečetl víckrát a přijde mi to jako vskutku dobrá mystifikace, něco jako Pokažené velikonoce. Tenkrát to tlučhubovi Bídovi taky fúra lidí sežrala. To se zas někdo někomu trefil do bábovičky v pískovišti, toho breku, uááá,eee, uuýýáááá
Zapsal: Fery, 11:53:28 02.10.2002
 Vsuvka
Jsem z Mělníka. Od malinka jezdím do Kokořínského údolí na kole, pěšky, flákat se, a tak ... tak to tam mam docela prolezli - horolezce tam nepamatuju. Zacal jsem list a koupil pruvodce. A najednou tam horolezci byli. Slezl pár skal co jsem znal zdřívějška a pak to zkusil do "větších" (rozuměj v tomto regionu) lezeckejch oblasti jako je okolo: Romanova, Ráje, Kokořínský důl obecně nebo Pánský důl... Studuju v Liberci (všude jsou skály na dosah ruky) a od té doby jsem tam byl jen jednou s holkou na vikend. Kokořínsko je dobrý ale Sušky to nejsou. Alespoň polovina skal jsou údolní, ale není to pravidlem jsou tam i věžičky (i vysoké), bývá to vlhké (ale nemusí - jak kde to shne), je to roztahaný, je to olezlý (to je snad jasný proč), je to solivý (jak kde), je tam naprostej klid, voní to tam :-)), neexistuje tam normální spojení (auto je nutnost), když se vám (ve dvou) něco stane tak ste v prdeli (nikde nikdo, sám nevíš kde zrovna si a signál...), je tam spousta míst na koupání, vždycky se tam bivakovalo a pálilo... což je zakázáno,... no a tak dal...

Leze se tam docela dobre, když víš co a nemusíš to hledat. Tzn. neznalému lezci se bude líbit tak 1 z 3 cest tzn. sežeňte si někoho kdo to tam zna jinak budete zklamani (jako všichni co sem do tohoto fóra psali).
Já si na Kokořínsko nemůžu stěžovat. (měl jsem toho znalého horolezce :-))
Chtěl bych Vám potřát krásné zalezení v Kokořínsku (nebo alespoň jednu návštěvu), aby ste všichni věděli o čem se tady hádáte.
Wooff

PS: Kokořínsko nejsou Dubské skály.
PSS: Sorry, ze je to tak dlouhý
Zapsal: Wooff, 09:12:54 06.10.2002
 Ach jo
škoda, že víte tak málo o oblasti, o které píšete.
1 - Kokořínsko patří do Dubských skal
2 - Pro oblast Dubských skal vyšel poměrně pěkně a přehledně zpracovaný průvodce, k sehnání např.v prodejnách HUDYSPORT.
3 - Písek je opravdu velmi měkký, ale proti gustu žádný dišputát.Tak nám ho tolik nehaňte.Mě to zase nejde na vápně a s tím jištěním je to spíš o umění smyčkování a o citu pro skálu a materiál.
4 - Pokud opravdu nemáte auto, tak doporučuji cestovat přes Mělník autobusem z Holešovic a potom směr na Českou Lípu nebo Děčín, podle toho kam jedete.
5 - Spaní a rozdělávání ohně je na mnoha místech zakázané, ale zatím tolerované, tak to prosím nepřežeňte.
6 - Většina cest v Dubských skalách nabízí krásné a specifické lezení po krachlích v kolmých stěnách, ale je zde mnoho lezení v koutech, spárách, rajbasech sem tam převis a mnoho bouldrů. Prostě všechno.
Největší devizou Dubských skal je ovšem romantika, opuštěnost a zatím moc pěkná příroda a žádní ochranáři.
7 - Nejvhodnější období pro lezení je pozdní jaro a léto. Většina skal je schovaná v lese, takže i v letních pařácích se dá lézt.
8 - Co se týče těch lepších oblastí, mohu doporučit Rač, údolí Roklice a Loubenského potoka nebo Vlhošť, ale je jich zde mnohem více.

P.S. Nechci v žádném případě diskutovat o Coubalovcích nebo M. Čermákovi, ale až si náhodou zvyknete na Dubské skály, nedivte se když se z vás stanou stejní introverti jako z nich.

jan burian mělník
Zapsal: ALI, 20:24:43 07.10.2002
 To čumim
Článek se mi líbil. A fakt jenom čumim, když pročítám ty komentáře...
Zapsal: šln, 12:58:36 15.06.2004
 
FOR ALI : Vy předpokládáte, že všichni, co čtou tuto diskusi a hodlají vyrazit do zmíněných lokalit jsou z Prahy? Nebo o jakých Holešovicích byla řeč?
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 Anketa:
Jaké technologie nebo aplikace používáte při lezení a jak vám pomáhají?
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