Letos opět po dvou letech přišlo na řadu Mistrovství Evropy. Pořadatelství si u ICC (mezinárodní instituce organizující závody ve sportovním lezení) zajistilo francouzské Chamonix. Horské středisko pod Mont Blancem je tradičním organizátorem velkých mezinárodních soutěží a letos navíc celou akci pojali jako Festival sportovního lezení. O evropský titul se závodilo v boulderignu, v lezení na obtížnost a v lezení na rychlost. Český mančaft
V poslední Montaně je opět opěvovaná Frankenjura a tak si myslím, že by nebylo od věci napsat taky něco o dalších možná ne příliš známých oblastech, ve kterých si zaleze i „normální“ člověk. Ve všech posledních článcích týkajících se Frankenjury se omílají stejné oblasti. Přijde mi, že stále ještě je větší procento lezců pohybujících se kolem stupně sedm a do klasifikací s číslem osm, natož devět se pouštějí velmi zřídka. Spousta z ná
Na počátku července jsme se po zkušenostech a doporučeních vypravili na nikým nevyhledávanou a hrozně hnusnou horu, nějaký to Matterhorn 4477,50 m.n.m.. Aklimatizaci jsme nepodcenili a Monte Rossa, respektive její předvrchol Punta Gnifetti 4559m.n.m., byl pohodovou, byť únavnou, záležitostí.
Ale to již se zrychleně tlukoucím srdcem vzhlížíme na onu pověstnou hranu Hörnli za G7 Bernské klasifikace, kde kdysi zažil starej Wajmpr to své
Pomalu ke klasice pro Pražáky patří miniaturní pískovcové skalní město kousek od Petřínské rozhledny na Strahově. Je to takový balvan (někdy zvaný i Bobek) z měkkého pískovce, kde se nechá dobře cvičit stěnové lezení, ale je tam i pár spárek: na ruku, pěst, kousek na prsty i širočina. Balvan má tak od 4 do 7 metrů.
Jedeme lízt na Marmošku! Kdo to vymyslel nevím, nejspíš Johny který měl v Jižní stěně zavěšený už dva pytle a tak chtěl svoji sbírku rozšířit - v Messnerově variantě Vinatzera ještě pytel nemá. Jde do toho s motorkářem Čendou, já s polezem Magnuskem hodláme zavěsit Moderní časy. Cesta autem je dlouhá, jedeme celou noc jelikož se nám nechce platit dálnice a průjezd Brenerem. V serpentýnách v Dolomitech se Čendovi udělalo nevolno al
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Štěstí je jen muška zlatá...A mně taková muška zlatá(spíš posr...)vlítla do foťáku, když jsem měnil film, pak se zašprajcovala do uzávěrky a já si to nevšiml.Vesele jsem vyfotil během závodů v Imstu, Arcu a Ravenně deset filmů a všechno na prd!
To zděšení při vyvolání!Jirka Sika má pravdu, že články bez fotek jsou suchý.Takže, o co jste přišli?
O fotky k reportáži se dvěma velice zajímavými juniorskými talenty.
Tím
Tak prolétlo jaro, po něm léto, které je již v plném proudu a tak si možná rádi přečtete jeden z tipů, kde ho strávit.
O Ceuse jsme již několikrát psali, ale popis oblasti s návodem, jak se tam dostat ten ještě tu chyběl.
Rozložení sektorů
Něco bylo napsáno v Montaně článek tuším od RT vám tehdy představil oblast jako vysoko položenou a s malými převisy. Je to pravda ke stěnám se vine hezky dlouhá cesta a lezci odchovaní Višňovými převisy budou znechuceni. Avšak vy ostatní, kteří stůněte po dokonalém francouzském vápnu zavítejte do kraje Haute Durance.
Oblast má díky n.m. výšce vysokohorský charakter
Ceuse je vysoko položená lezecká oblast necelých sto kilometrů jižně od Grenoblu se nachází přímo nad městečkem Gap. Přímo nad městečkem znamená sice ještě asi 15 km po klikatící se silnici do kopce, ale při pohledu z Gapu je Ceuse nepřehlédnutelné.
Nejoblíbenější sektor Caskády
Charakter : kolem 80 m vysoké plotnovité stěny, tři sektory dosti převislé, ve velkých převisech lezení po relativně dobrých chytech, cesty všech obtížností,
jsou zakončeny řetězy, jištění nýty je nové ojediněle odvážné Cesty : rozděleny do 14 sektorů , přibližně po dvaceti cestách
Sektor Demi-lune se známou cestou Moi et Lui 8a
Sektory :
1 Sector Golots a gogo
2 Sector Dalles des Capetes
3 Sector de la Cascade
4 Sector de la Cascade
5 Sector Thorgat
6 Sector Face de rat
7 Sector Berlin
8 Sector Biographie
9 Sector Demi -lune
10 Sector Un pont sur l´infini
11 Sector Les maitres du monde
12 Sector Grande face
13 Sector Nithsapa
14 Sector Natilik
Sektor Caskády, v pozadí Dalles des Capetes
Nocování : nadivoko se zatím toleruje a pod stěnami jsou prostorné převisy, s řadou provizorních bivaků, stážci parku jen zřídka vyšlápnou kopec, aby se snažili lezce vyhnat z doupat avšak pro pohodlnější pobyt je jednoznačně ideální kemp, kde je k dispozici sprcha, a malá lezecká stěnka.
Sektor Berlín a jeho 50m kompaktní zeď
Potraviny : voda je přímo z vodopádku vyvěrajícího ze skal v blízkosti sektoru Cascade, v sedle Les Guernes je fontana s vynikající pitnou vodou a také v Sigoyer na hlavní třídě lze najít fontánu, obchod z potravinami dokonce i pekař je ve vesnici Sigoyer také, lépe je však nakoupit v supermarketu v Gapu. Ostatní : koupání v řece Durance (18 km), čistá a studená nebo v rybníku poblíž cesty do Gapu. Nedaleko se také nachází veliké jezero Lac de Serre-Poncon.
Doost pekny fotky. Jak na to koukam, tak se mi uplne zacinaji potit prsty. Dik za dobry tip
Zapsal: Musado, 15:31:38 22.07.2002
Dobrej článek
Jirko, dobrej článek, moc pěkný fotky. Jen bych potřeboval vyjasnit větu "jištění nýty je nové ojediněle odvážné". Znamená to, že je tu a tam (tu a tam=ojediněle) odvážné, nebo že je všude nezvykle (nezvykle=ojediněle) odvážné? :=)
Jisteni je na vetsibe cest podle francouskeho standartu. Rozhodne ne po dvou metrech spise po 3. Ale na nekterych cestach zacina nad zemi normalne (3m mezi nyty ) a cim clovek se dostava vyse, tim trochu ridne. Chce to trochu moralu, ale proti piskum je to stale pohoda.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 07:26:16 23.07.2002
Ještě jištění
Podle mých zkušeností jsou to převážně cesty se starými nýty z "vinglu", na kterých je vyraženo P.E. (asi nějaký "neznámý" francouzský lezec). Vzdálenosti cca kolem 5 metrů, ale vzhledem k tomu, že lezl i pěkná sóla, tak docela dobře zajištěné. Tyto cesty nejsou ani "omaglazovaný", a tak bych je doporučil všem moralizujícím pískařům. A pro ty ostatní, cesty jsou jištěné dobře. Určitě se tam jeďte podívat a zalézt. Oblast je ideální i na francouzské léto (červen a červenec). Čolek
Zapsal: Michal Zemek, 07:36:42 23.07.2002
obtiznost??
cesty vsech obtiznosti znamena, ze si tam dobre zaleze i sedmickar? Nerad bych se vlacel stovky km a zjistil, ze to co je v mych moznostech prelezu za dva dni a dost :)), nevite nejaky link na pruvodce?
Ceuse je opravdu vynikající oblast na léto, na Kaskádě stín 9-12 hod, ve většině ostatních sektorů 15-večer, teplota díky nadmořské výšce cca 1900 m příjemná (na lezení, na koukání až chladno).
Lezení v 6 fr. stupni na moc dlouho ne, výše na dost dlouho. Lezení velmi rozmanité, ve stručnosti: Kaskáda značně převislá a vytrvalostní, ostatní sektory spíše kolmé až lehce převislé, tedy technicko-vytrvalostní, velmi sedí většině pískařů.
Jištění směrem výše občas řídne ( Ríša Litochleb říkal, že budou muset v Labáku něco vytlouct, to přece nejde, aby měli ve Francii větší vzdálenosti mezi nýty než my v Čechách) ale platí to od sedmiček výše a je to fakt bezpečné.
Hlavní lahůdka Ceusse je nástup (převýšení cca 400 - 500 m )z čehož vyplývá: někdo spí nahoře, to znamená drsnou vynášku, někdo v kempu ( velmi příznivá cena cca 100 Kč na osobu bez ohledu na stan, či auto ) nebo v lesíku na horním parkovišti u studánky, což znamená se každý den pěkně projít a něco zhubnout.
Ceusse je naprostá špička, ať si RT říká co chce, takže příští léto. Ciao Karel
Zapsal: KarelSV, 16:13:22 23.07.2002
RT
RT souhlasi, ze je Ceuse jedna z nejkouzelnejsich oblasti v Evrope, pouze kdysi konstatoval, ze pro spickoveho zavodnika tady nejsou dostatecne moznosti vyziti jako treba v Ospu, Arcu, Orgonu... a pochopitelne Visnovem, cha, cha... Nebo v Labaku? Abych neurazil...
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Registrace
Metodika
lezec.cz
Tak prolétlo jaro, po něm léto, které je již v plném proudu a tak si možná rádi přečtete jeden z tipů, kde ho strávit. 
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V poslední Montaně je opět opěvovaná Frankenjura a tak si myslím, že by nebylo od věci napsat taky něco o dalších možná ne příliš známých oblastech, ve kterých si zaleze i „normální“ člověk. Ve všech posledních článcích týkajících se Frankenjury se omílají stejné oblasti. Přijde mi, že stále ještě je větší procento lezců pohybujících se kolem stupně sedm a do klasifikací s číslem osm, natož devět se pouštějí velmi zřídka. Spousta z ná
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Počasí se opět umoudřilo, sluníčko vysvitlo a nás to táhlo daleko na východ.Slovo dalo slovo, padly další dva dny dovolenky a mi si to vesele fičeli na daleký východ Slovenska. Po shlédnutí internetových průvodců padla volba na Turniskou, lezeckou oblast blízko vesničky Kojšov, kterou by hodně lidí označilo jako totální prdel světa.
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