Zdravím všechny horaly a horalky (ty především). Rád bych dal vědět něco o naší miniexpedici do Pakistánu,
která se konala v srpnu tohoto roku. Členové výpravy: Jakub „Kuba“ Frinta, Jan „ Čákis“ Čáka, Michal „ Bobr“ Nondek, Ondřej „ Macín“ Macek a Jiří „Skot“ Skotnica. Cílů měla naše výprava hned několik, až možná trochu moc, nicméně se celkem dařilo. A to i přes nepřízeň počasí, o které jste se mohli dočíst hned v několika článcích od expedic do Karakoramu.
Vyrážíme z Islamabádu busem do Skardu
Prvním cílem byl přechod ledovcového systému Biafo – Hispar. Začátek ledovce Biafo leží asi sto kiláků od městečka Skardu (tam se dostanete po neuvěřitelných třiceti hodinách cesty autobusem na slavné Karakoram Highway). Skardu je něco mezi zajímavým bazarem a skladištěm. Proto se tam dá celkem dobře vybavit na treky i lezení, a toho všeho je v okolí víc než dostatek. Po nákupu všeho potřebného jsme domluvili jeep do Askole, mrňavé vesnici na konci cesty, odkud to jde již jen po svých. Začínáme ledovcem Biafo. První dny není špatné trefit cestičku, kudy nosiči i výpravy překonávají první část ledovce pokrytou nechutnou změtí šutrů, štěrku i balvanů velkých jako rodinný domek. O tom jak je fajn trefit cestičku jsme se my přesvědčili až na konci našeho treku, kde se nám to nepovedlo a bylo to fakt hrozné.
Po dvou – třech dnech dorazíte konečně na čistý ledovec. I když jsme z Alp zvyklí na všelicos, rozloha ledovce nás docela dostala. Přijdete si jak na přistávací dráze pro marťany. Ledovec je široký tak tři kilometry a to co si myslíte že je vzdálené hodinu cesty jdete celý den. Ono to není ani na škodu, protože výhledy okolo Vás rozhodně nudit nezačnou. Ze slavných jmen hor a ledovců které míjíte zmíním jen Ogre, Latoky, výhled na ledovec Baltoro atd. Čtvrtý den jsme dorazili na okraj jednoho z největších údolních ledovcových plat na světe. Říká se mu Snow lake, a ten název nepřehání. Na tomto místě se stýká hned několik velikých ledovců a tvoří obrovité plato. Přejít ho pod sedlo Hispar La není žádná sranda, mimo jiné proto, že jste už ve výšce okolo 4900 metrů. My jsme tedy fuňěli solidně.
Tak naštěstí jedeme tím vzadu, osel by asi nedojel
No a pak nás čekalo již samotné Hispar La. Je to sedlo přibližně v půli treku. Jeho výška je 5152 metrů. Tedy aspoň podle naší mapy, ale ony se ty mapy docela liší. Dál už následuje příjemný sestup do příjemnější výšky na ledovec Hispar. Následuje opět jeden - dva dny pohody na čistém ledovci, který je mimo jiné zajímavý spoustou jezer a potoků, které formují jeho povrch do fantastických tvarů. Pak ovšem následovala docela hororová část treku. Normálně, když se jde po cestičce co vede na pravé straně ledovce (to jsme samozřejmě zjistili až dole), bych to odhadl na jeden a půl dne. My se po té zas… šotolině hrabali tři dny. Odneslo to několik zlomených hůlek, jedna roztržená ruka a druhá s podezřením na zlomeninu (naštěstí neopodstatněným) a pocuchané nervy.
Začátek ledovce Biafo
Trek byl jednak nádherný a také splnil svůj aklimatizační účel. Jeho sportovní hodnota mi taky nepřijde malá (och tak má skromnost). Prý patří k těm nejtěžším v Pakistánu a my si ho ještě vylepšili tím, že jsme šli bez nosičů a vůdce (ten by se nám ale na konci fakt hodil) No ono by taky možná stačilo nenechat si doma v Praze průvodce a nebo se jen třeba cestou zeptat…
Přistávací dráha – ledovec Biafo
Zajímavé bylo srovnání s komerční expedicí, která se skládala z jedenácti klientů na které připadalo určitě přes sto nosičů, kteří nesli dokonce přenosný záchod. No, proti gustu žádný dišputát.
Dalším cílem bylo slavné Nangma Valley, které možná znáte z článků Marka Holečka a spol. Ti zde lezli na Amin Brakk. Náš cíl byl skromnější, ale taky pěkný. Jednak prvovýstup na horu Driffika 6452 a dále dát nějaký prvovýstup na okolní žulové věže. Počasí bylo na nic, ale stejně jsme Driffiku aspoň zkusili. Měli jsme vybraný cíl v jihoněco stěně. Jedná se o ledosněhový svah, který má tak okolo padesáti stupňů. Dne xy jsme vyrazili ve tři ráno a postup byl supr rychlý. Jenže ouha, okolo šesté ráno začalo sněžit, jak ostatně mnoho dnů předem. Říkali jsme si, že to snad nějak půjde, i přes hrozící laviny. V osm hodin jsme mohli být tak 5800 – 5900 metrů vysoko a měli jsme za sebou tak dvě třetiny nebezpečného terénu ( Okrajovka tak 5100 m.n.m ) Lavinová situace se horšila, tak jsme se radili co dál. Natáhnout brka se nikomu nechtělo, ale kopec to je fakt pěkný a kdy se sem zase koukne. Nicméně hora se rozhodla nám při váhání trochu pomoci, takže uprostřed porady přijela první, malá z mnoha dalších lavin a my byli hned po pás zasypaní. Krve by se ve mne nedořezal. Bylo rozhodnuto, že mažem dolů. Ostatně minulý rok tady pod lavinou umřel jeden Španěl a my si řekli, že ho nechceme následovat. Cestou jsme museli docela dramaticky uhýbat před lavinami, co naštěstí jezdili v takových žlebech. Ale stejně to bylo párkrát o fous. Až někoho z nás potkáte na skalách v hospodě tak Vám tu historku určitě někdo rád a barvitě vylíčí.
Nosiči v jejich teniskách
Po tomhle neúspěchu jsme se rozhodli se soustředit spíš na skalní lezení. I tak, ale šla motivace v týmu dolů, takže půlka výpravy to zabalila. V údolí zůstal Honza a moje maličkost. Za cíl jsme si vybrali docela pěknou hranu jižní stěny na Changi Tower. Linie je to pěkná i když od pohledu ta z méně náročných. Důvod byl celkem nasnadě. Byly jsme už docela unavení a na výstup jsme měli maximálně tři dny. Ten se nakonec zaplať Pánbůh podařil. První den jsme vynesli matroš pod stěnu. Zdálo se to kousek, ale pět set výškových metrů to nakonec stejně bylo. Ještě ten den se nám povedlo dát první čtyři lehké délky a nechat v nich lana. Druhý dne jsme to již stihli na vrchol, nebo spíše konec cesty. Ten jsme dali na první výrazné věžičce hrany. Dál byl již jen hřeben složený z věží vysokých okolo dvaceti metrů, takže se pachtit dál by byla docela pakárna. Sestup jsme vyřešili pěti slaněními a drobným slézáním do strže mezi Changi Tower a masivem.
Tady se šlo dost pohodově
Cestu jsme nazvali Pakistán Therapy. Je pětset metrů dlouhá a lezení se pohybuje většinou mezi pátým a šestým stupněm. Jedno místo je za sedm mínus. Hrana je z výborné žuly, což ostatně není v Nangma Valley žádná výjimka. Těžší místa jsou obvykle plotny s rajbasy a lezením po krystalech živce. Zkrátka paráda. Hrana je nejdříve lehká a celkem i položená s tím, že čím jste výše, tím je lezení těžší a hezčí.
Ledovec Hispar a krásná jezírka a potoky
Driffika s naším cílem – zatím krásné počasí
Na závěr bych rád poděkoval našim sponzorům. DIRECT ALPINE nám dal fajn softschelové oblečení a já měl ještě půjčený fajn goráčový komplet na vyzkoušení.
Dále nás podpořili také firmy ROOF a UAX.
Suma sumáru:
· přechod ledovcového systému Biafo – Hispar za jedenáct dní bez podpory nosičů a vůdce. Účastnili se Skot, Macín, Kuba, Čákis a já.
· pokus o prvovýstup na Driffiku 6452m, ledovo-firnový svah okolo 500 , dosažená výška mezi 5800 – 5900 m. Účastnili se Kuba, Čákis a Bobr.
· Pakistan therapy, Changi Tower, levá hrana jižní stěny. Obtížnost 7-, délka 500 m. Účastnil se Čákis a Bobr
Kuba při výstupu na Driffiku – už moc krásně není…
Changi tower a oddělený vrchol v popředí – cesta Pakistan therapy
Gratuluju k vykonum, kdysi jsme se s kamosema pokouseli o biafo-hispar a nejaky lezeni ale dopadlo to daleko hur. Samej pytel :o). Karakoram je super. Hodne zdaru. Happy climbing....
Díky za pochvaly i kritiku fotek. Fakt jsme spíš lezci než fotografové. No a trocha růžových brýlí nikdy neuškodí :-) Možná to chce ještě vysvětlení, proč nejsou fotky z lezení na hraně. Hned v první délce se nám podařilo zničit foťák a to totálně. Vůbec to byl nasírací den (krávy nám sežraly v táboře jídlo). No končím, jen se chci omluvit za překlepy a hrubky. Jsem dysortograf.
Bobr
PS: Bobr zdraví Peklo
a kde je planek pristupu a nakres cesty, abychom ji nasli, az tam pojedeme ji zopakovat. A kdyz ne my tak at existuje zaznam do historickych zaznamu.
Zapsal: , 09:46:56 06.10.2005
dotaz na trek
nazdárek chlapáci!
mám pár dotazu ohledně treku,za prvé jsou velký problémy s trhlinama specialně na snow lake a potom dál za hispar la?za druhé když pujdu z askole na solovku pustěj mě tam?za třetí je nutný alpský vybavení/cepín,mačky,špagát/dík za odpověd jeff
Čau, tak nákres není. U té hrany není fakt potřeba. Prostě valíš po celkem úzké hraně nahoru, kudy to pustí. Plánek přístupu není špatnej nápad. Zkusíme ho vytvořit a někam to pověsit.
Dále odpovědi na všetečné otázky ohledně treku. S trhlinami na Snow lake je to těžké odpovědět. My jsme nikam nespadli a nějaká trhlinová hrůza mi to nepřišlo. Na druhou stranu jsme byli navázaní. Pech můžeš mít vždy a všude. Osobně bych sólo nedoporučoval. Jinak když jsi drsný a slušně je pošleš do patřičných míst, tak tě tam pustí. Hlavně jim vadí, že nepřinášíš prachy místním nosičům.
K vybavení. Mačky jsme nepoužili, cepín se hodí a vodu a hlavně na možnou záchranu parťáka a lano je stejný případ, navázaní jsme šli.
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