Proč mě přitahuje lezení v Sasku a i tenhle kout země jako takový? Často nad tím přemýšlím a využiji svého seriálu k tomu, abych se s vámi o své pohnutky podělil.
Tomáš Mrázek vybojoval dnes stříbro na letošním druhém závodu série Světového poháru v lezení na obtížnost, který se konal o tomto víkendu v ruském Jekatěrinburgu. Slávek Vomáčko, který ho doprovází, označil Mrázův výkon za velmi pěkný.
STŘEDA
Další ráno se probouzíme do mlžného oparu a rozhodujeme se pro restdayovou obhlídku oblasti Les trois pignons, konkrétně sektoru Le Cul de chien. Vezmem věci, kdyby tam bylo něco pěknýho... Přes písčitou poušť, na kterou valíme kukadla, se dostáváme mezi první šutry a konstatujem, že teda jako nic moc.
Je jaro, krásná obloha nás láká ven a my jsme se rozhodli její volání vyslyšet. Balíme věci, které budeme potřebovat na Sůĺov, překrásnou skalní oblast kousíček za hranicemi u našich nedalekých bratří.
Nemohl jsem uvěřit vlastnímu sluchu. Centrální stěna Panteonu má být vytlučena.
Včera jsem potkal kámoše a on to vybalil. Slyšel, že se má kompletně zrušit lezení na Panťáku, v oblasti celé centrální stěny, tzn. to nejlepší co tam je. Jeho zdroj se mi podařilo zjistit, ale nechci ho zde uvádět. Slíbil jsem mu to. Jestli k tomu dojde, čemuž nemůžu uvěřit, tak si někdo udělá hodně nepřátel a já budu stát v jejich čele. Informace to není zcela oveřená, ale jak se říká, na každém šprochu prav
Právě vycházela Země nad severním úbočím, když jsme dorazili pod stěnu, ve stínu nebylo vidět absolutně nic a tak jsme museli dávat pozor, kam si odložíme batohy.
Slunce pálí jako hrom, na nebi se občas mihne malá bílá bublina. S Oslíkem vyrážíme na Radyni. Já vím, lezení to pro Vás super lezce asi není nic moc,...
Toto je překlad rozhovoru ,který byl uskutečněn po přelezení Undergroundu.Hovor byl poskytnut Ele Griščenkovové-www.mountain.ru.
Tomáš Mrázek
1.května 2002 český lezec přelezl cestu Undeground, 9a v oblasti Pueblo v Massone,Arco,Iálie.Je to druhý přelez po Yuji Hirayamovi.
Tomáš se objevil na mezinárodních závodech v roce 2000. A v roce 2001 už vyhrál Mistrovství světa juniorů,dva závody ve Světovém poháru i elitní závod Rock Master. Dnes je mu 19 let a za 5 le
Tak jsem se takhle ňák jednou náhodou přes známý dohmát, že někde kousek na východ od Prahy leží ňákej kopec, na jehož vrcholku se nachází jakési magické kameny či co!!!!
Neváhal jsem tedy. Vzal jsem Jardu Balbou a káru a jelo se. Orientovali jsme se podle turistické mapy, na které bylo nejpodrobněji zakresleno, kde se tento vrch s názvem KLEPEC nachází. Zhruba za 15min jízdy z Prahy jsme stáli v obci Skřivany a už si to šinuli přímo za našim dnešnim cílem. Zanedlouho jsme spatřili první z nich. Byla to jakási špice, tak cca 7m vysoká z hrubozrnné žuly. Avšak co nás zaskočilo, bylo to, že byla dost zhusta osazena nýty a že už tu asi někdo někdy lez. Což nás docela zklamalo, tak sme pokračovali dál lesem.
Za chvíli jsme spatřili další z nich. Byl to jakýsi obrovský chlebník, tak 4m vysoký, ze všech stran dost převislý a kromě mikrolišt zcela bez chytů. Jediné 2 možné výstupy zde byly. Z jedné strany se dalo vcelku v pohodě vylézt nahoru. A ze strany opačné přes jakousi památní desku. Když jsme se dodrápali na vrchol, tak jsme byli opět zaskočeni. „Kruci kdo sem dal tu knížku???!!!“ Z knihy jsme se dozvěděli, že tam doposud skutečně vedou pouze výše zmíněné cesty. Neváhali jsme se pustit do pátrání po dalších výstupových linií. Za chviličku jsme jednu další na první pohled skutečně možnou linii objevili. Na první pohled docela dobrý lišty, ale na pohled druhý, čili lezení nic moc! Pojmenovali jsme to lakonicky „Výzva pro lištodrtiče Štefánka!“
Pak jsem se jali prozkoumávat všechny okolní rozeseté buldry. Byly to většinou šutry max. 2,5 m vysoký. Zde jsme našli spousty dalších pěkných vyzývavých linií. Něco málo těžších traverzů a rajbasových výlezú. Nechyběli však ani sylové převísky (Viva la Balboa). Za celé odpoledne jsme se zde dosytova zmasili a pěkně pobavili. Jediná nevýhoda byla to, že Ony kameny byly občas docela zamešený, takže jsme museli ručně, nebo klacíkama vyrejpávat mech a lišejník. Příště kartzáče s-sebou!!!! Taky bylo docela blbý, že to byla dost hrubozrnná žula, takže jsme měli zmasený bříška na rukách. Ale jinak super. Super počásko. Balboáčovi to šlo jedna báseň. Myslím, že jsme tam vymysleli a Jarda přelez něco málo dost těžkých buldrů, které budou delší dobu čekat na opakování. Oblast všem nadšeným buldristům z Prahy a okolí víc než doporučujeme. S FB-klasifikací nemáme žádné zkušenosti, takže nevíme vlastně co a za kolik jsem lezli. Ale to myslím není stejně podstatné.
Stejně to byl ale klepec na tom KLEPCI. Toť vše!!!
Co napsat závěrem? Snad jen že jsme se tak kolem 6-té rozjeli zpět domu, takže jsme jeli na kafe do BB (uuuuuuáááááááááááááá reklamááááá). Hej hoši už ste vo tom slyšeli? V BB prej od 1. června obsluhujou konečně holky bez a kluci s………….
Čusbus Lukáš
Tak jsi mi vyfouk téma, smolil jsem to zrovna o víkednu a čekám na fotky. No nevadí, jestli se povedou a najdu odvahu, tak sem svůj pohled snad taky fouknu jako Klepec - druhý díl?
Na Klepci, ktery je chranenou prirodni pamatkou, se leze uz dosti dlouho. Vysvetluje to ty nyty a vrcholove knizky. Kameny jsou z zuly Ricanskeho typu a leze se tu prevazne jenom po krystalech. Trosku to pripomina Jizerky. Prvni kamen v puvodnim prispevku se jmenuje Slouha, je 8m vysoky a v soucasne dobe na nej vede asi kolem 20. cest a variant. Nyty tam sice jsou (donedavna tri, ted myslim jeden pribyl), ale vsechny cesty se (az na jednu technickou) daji vylezt bez jejich pouziti. U vrsku sutru pak uz mate dost luftu pod nohama a lezeni je tak zabavnejsi. Druhy kamen - Stoh slamy je sice nejvetsi v oblasti, ale lezeni na nej nic moc neni. Ostatni vetsi kameny jsou napr. Obri zada a Kamenny kocar, ty uz jsou ale oproti prvnim dvema nesrovnatelne mensi.
Nešlo by tp lépe identifikovat ? nemůžu to najít - jezdím do obce Slavíky ale na nimi je jen vápená Koukolova hora a tyhle Slavíky nevím kde jsou a rád bych si tam jel zaboulderovat.
Krásný článek! Sice teprve začínám, ale už se chci pomalu, ale jistě přesouvat ven. Tím bych moc rád poděkoval za supr místo, ale stejně to vidim zatim jen na Petřín. Dík a čau Michal
Místní tam v dubnu pořádají lezecký triatlon Klepec Open (běh, lezba, kolo). Letos prý dali málo peněz na počasí, ale jinak sledujte lezecké stránky a za rok na Klepci!
Zapsal: Honza Hrb, 10:52:12 23.05.2002
Tak to čučim
Nazdar Luku musim řict ze fakt čumim kde se to v tobě vzalo:-)) Dej vědet až tam zase pojedeš jel bych taky. Cao Majkl
Jo je to pravda mistni tady poradaji kazdy rok prvni sobotu po Velikonocich horolezecky sprint triatlon. Dokonce jsem vytvoril neco jako pruvodce na Klepec, tedy pouze na Slouhu. Takze kdybyste nekdo chtel, tak vam poslu elektronickou formu. Zatim lezbe zdar a kdybyste se chteli zucastnit tak dejte vedet, protoze ten triatlon poradam ja (HO Gekon Ujezd nad Lesy)...
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Registrace
Metodika
lezec.cz
Si to přečtěte a uvidíte...........
Proč mě přitahuje lezení v Sasku a i tenhle kout země jako takový? Často nad tím přemýšlím a využiji svého seriálu k tomu, abych se s vámi o své pohnutky podělil.
Malé představení boulderingové minioblastina Trutnovsku.
STŘEDA
Je jaro, krásná obloha nás láká ven a my jsme se rozhodli její volání vyslyšet. Balíme věci, které budeme potřebovat na Sůĺov, překrásnou skalní oblast kousíček za hranicemi u našich nedalekých bratří.
Právě vycházela Země nad severním úbočím, když jsme dorazili pod stěnu, ve stínu nebylo vidět absolutně nic a tak jsme museli dávat pozor, kam si odložíme batohy. 
GPS a mapové aplikace