Tak jsem tady. Chtěl jsem to. Už od té chvíle, co jsem to viděl poprvé. A teď tu jen tak stojím a přemýšlím, jestli to mám zapotřebí. Mé odhodlání se blíží k bodu nula a stále intenzivněji se ven dere otázka: „ Co je lepší - být živý srab nebo ….?“. Ne, takto o tom přemýšlet nemohu. To bych neskočil. Na plakátu to vypadalo pohodově. Prostě uděláš jeden krok a je hotovo. Teď jsem na hraně, právě před tím krokem a klepu se. Třicet met
Tak jsme si zase s Oslíkem vyrazili někam zalézt a objevili jsme podle mého nějakou celkem zapomenutou oblast. Bylo tam tedy pár rezatých kruhů, ale do těch bych necvakal ani kdybyste mě nutili. Koukal jsem do průvodce, ale tam taková žádná oblast není. Mluvil jsem o tom i s Hopem a on říkal, že by to mohla bejt zpráva roku.
Před pár týdny inzeroval Petr Resch několik nových cest na Rovišti a stejně tak několik otevřených projektů. Zákopčaník předvídal na víkend tropy, v Juře všechno proteklý, tak jsme na víkend jeli k vodě.
Opět se povedlo počasí na víkend, takže hurá na skalky. Přišla na řadu volba oblasti a ta padla na skalku u Trenčína, nádherný přírodní úkaz vyrůstající v těsné blízkosti Váhu.
Proč mě přitahuje lezení v Sasku a i tenhle kout země jako takový? Často nad tím přemýšlím a využiji svého seriálu k tomu, abych se s vámi o své pohnutky podělil.
Tomáš Mrázek vybojoval dnes stříbro na letošním druhém závodu série Světového poháru v lezení na obtížnost, který se konal o tomto víkendu v ruském Jekatěrinburgu. Slávek Vomáčko, který ho doprovází, označil Mrázův výkon za velmi pěkný.
STŘEDA
Další ráno se probouzíme do mlžného oparu a rozhodujeme se pro restdayovou obhlídku oblasti Les trois pignons, konkrétně sektoru Le Cul de chien. Vezmem věci, kdyby tam bylo něco pěknýho... Přes písčitou poušť, na kterou valíme kukadla, se dostáváme mezi první šutry a konstatujem, že teda jako nic moc.
Je jaro, krásná obloha nás láká ven a my jsme se rozhodli její volání vyslyšet. Balíme věci, které budeme potřebovat na Sůĺov, překrásnou skalní oblast kousíček za hranicemi u našich nedalekých bratří.
Tak jsem tady. Chtěl jsem to. Už od té chvíle, co jsem to viděl poprvé. A teď tu jen tak stojím a přemýšlím, jestli to mám zapotřebí. Mé odhodlání se blíží k bodu nula a stále intenzivněji se ven dere otázka: „ Co je lepší - být živý srab nebo ….?“. Ne, takto o tom přemýšlet nemohu. To bych neskočil. Na plakátu to vypadalo pohodově. Prostě uděláš jeden krok a je hotovo. Teď jsem na hraně, právě před tím krokem a klepu se. Třicet metrů. Je to teda dost. Při lezení člověk nechce odskočit ani když má nýt u nohou a teď taková šluchta. Přede mnou tady jumpla skupinka lidí, která žádné zkušenosti s lezením určitě neměla a sedák také viděli zjevně poprvé. Přesto skočili a poměrně v klidu. Jen já stojím na té proklaté hraně a přemýšlím. Tolik let se člověk pohybuje po skalách a teď má takový strach. Co kdybych to nazval respekt. Ano mám respekt. To je ono. Já se přece nebojím. Mám respekt. To je něco jiného. To vlastně říká, že si uvědomuji míru rizika. Jasně, proto tady stojím tak dlouho. Prostě zvažuji možná rizika. No jo, ale riziko je asi minimální, protože všichni skočili a jsou v pohodě. Racionálně zde tedy riziko není. Je to vlastně věc víry. Rozum musí zvítězit nad emocemi. Musím vědomě překonat strach. Je to jen otázka odhodlání. A to přece mám. Proto jsem tady. Tak jdem na to. Tři, dva, jedna …
Tři, dva, jedna ...
Asi tak nějak probíhal myšlenkový pochod nejednoho skokana o tomto víkendu na Pňovanském mostě na Hracholuskách. Kromě skoku na laně (Kienova houpačka) psychiku prověřil i skok na visutou hrazdu, Tyrolský traverz a slanění hlavou dolů.
Slanění hlavou dolů má své kouzlo i při slaňování z lehce převislých stěn, stačí se pořádně zaklonit a přetočit nohama nahoru. Je to lehce fotogenické (nad turistickou cestou) a docela o hubu, pokud máte dlouhé vlasy a plandavé hadry. Obráceně jsem ještě neseděl v sedáku, ale ptám se: Držel někdo dole spodní konec lana, aby případně zabránil problémům při puštění lana rukama slaňujícího?
Zapsal: Gamp, 14:52:06 30.05.2002
Re: Re:, Re:
Bolek po skoku vylezl ze sedáku a oddal se zemské přitažlivosti. Podle té fotky mi to ale přijde, že z té vody vyskočil.
Další Adrenalin + bude na podzim. S největší pravděpodobností na koci září. Na lezce dáme určitě avízo.
Další foto je ve fotogalerii na www.summit-drive.cz . Je tam i odpověď pro Gampa.
Popis toho slaneni oblicejem dolu jsem na uvedene adrese nenasel. Docela by me to zajimalo. My jsme to zkouseli ze sedmipatrovych koleji a mel jsem s tim dost problemy. Sedak jsem teda mel oblecenej normalne, osmu cvaklou vzadu za pasek. (Pro jistotu jeste privazanej na jednom lane, kterym jsem byl jisten ze shora a jeste kluci dole stali u konce slanovaciho lana.)
Problem byl ten, ze to je hrozny napor na brisni svaly. Jednim resenim by snad mohlo byt pouziti prsniho uvazku a ti, kteri u toho nebyli, navrhovali sebehnout to na jeden nadech. (A kdyz uz to pry sebehnout tak rychle, tak se rukama jenom pridrzovat lana a spolehat na to, ze v pripade problemu kluci dole napnou lano v osme.)
Kdo s tim ma nejake zkusenosti? A jake? Rad bych do toho sel jeste jednou. Ale trochu elegantneji. Ne aby mi sedak 5 minut tlacil zvratky z bricha do krku.
Zapsal: J., 16:21:49 08.06.2002
Re: J
Z fotek by mělo být patrné, že dole je Cháron (člověk sedící v lodi a jistící slaňujícího).
Pro lepší zažívací pocity používáme celotělový úvazek. Nevýhoda je, že je těžiště trochu dál od slaňovací stěny a při větších rychlostech se pohyb hůře ovládá. Pro začátečníky je to ale nejvhodnější řešení.
Přijď na podzimní Adrenalin + a vyzkoušíš si to. Bude poslední víkend v září. Na 99%.
Ten Charon na lodce, to mu tak rikate doopravdy, nebo jsi to pouzil pouze jako prirovnani s reckou mytologii? :))
Jinak tvuj poznatek o tezisti dal od steny sedi. Taky kdyz jsem natahnul nohy a chtel jit o neco rychleji, tak jsem ztracel stabilitu.
Diky za tip.
Zapsal: J., 22:07:04 10.06.2002
RE: Charon
Charon je z mytologie, a my to používáme, protože v našem případě človíček slaní do lodi a na ní je pak převezen "Cháronem" na pevninu. Pakliže zaplatí.
Vždycky jsem si myslel že je to pro lidi, kteří lano vživotě neviděli a potřebují si vyplavit trochu toho adrenalinu. Nevim kolik za to Bolek nebo kdo chce, ale myslim že ty, co někdy (a někdy i dost často) lezou si podobnou ba i lepší zábavu zvládnou udělat sami. Ten most nad Hrachama neni jedinej stejnej je i v Chrástu. A tam se skáče za darmo nikdo do vás nestrká, na hraně můžete stát jak dlouho chcete a hlavně, jste tam s lidma co jsou 100% kámoši.
Ps.: Já taky jednou skákal prvně a po zimě je to odvaz vždycky.
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