Každý lezec si jednoho krásného deštivého a chmurného dne uvědomí, že už v Montaně přečetl všechny články a že už ta nudná hrazda mezi dveřmi není to pravé. Přichází období, kdy lezec kutil vzpomíná na staré časy – oprava lezeček, nový maglajzpytlík, vlastnoručně ušitý sedák, který nikdy nepoužil,…
H.O.K.N. (horolezecký oddíl Karla Němce - Plzeň) pořádá ve čtvrtek 14.3. v 19.00 hodin v divadle Dialog v Plzni přednášku lékařky Společnosti horské medicíny na téma:
Horolezectví - první pomoc a záchrana v horách
Upřesňuji informace o vítězství Saši Holkové na závodech v boulderingu v Bouldru v USA, o němž už se objevily kusé informace na Lezci. Saša vyhrála zatím všechny místní závody až na jeden, který vyhrála Simona Ulmonová. Simča je silná ukrutně, ale natažené bouldry po oblinách má problémy vyskákat. V březnu se těchto závodů má zůčastnit celá Amerika.
Na 8a. nu se ted rozbiha velmi prinosna a zajimava diskuze ohledne terminu zdolani cesty Redpoint. Definice by mela byt asi nasledujici: volne prelezeni cesty s procvakavanim jisticich prostredku v kuse. Mnozi ale v dnesnich dnech praktikuji z bezpecnostnich (ci moralnich, ci jinych) duvodu metodu procvaknutych 1-2 nytu, coz je v praxi tolerovano.
Tak a konečně jsou tady celkové výsledky ze Sauna Opene 2002, které mi poslal Vlasta již minulý týden a dokonce i nějaké fotky.
SAUNA OPEN 2002
VÝSLEDKOVÁ LISTINA - Ž E N Y
KVALIFIKACE
FINÁLE
UMÍSTĚNÍ
JMÉNO
PŘÍJMENÍ
BODY
počet TOPů
počet pokusů na TOPy
počet ZÓN
počet pokusů na ZÓNy
BODY
1.
SVĚTLANA
KADLECOVÁ
3 x TOP
0
1
1
2
2
2.
JITKA
BURSOVÁ
55 582,00
X
X
0
2
2
3.
JITKA
KŘEŠOVÁ
55 582,00
X
X
0
2
2
4.
ZUZANA
ULRICHOVÁ
55 582,00
X
X
0
2
5
5.
LENKA
KREJČÍ
55 582,00
SAUNA OPEN 2002
VÝSLEDKOVÁ LISTINA - M U Ž I
KVALIFIKACE
SEMIFINÁLE
FINÁLE
UMÍSTĚNÍ
JMÉNO
PŘÍJMENÍ
BODY
počet TOPů
počet pokusů na TOPy
počet ZÓN
počet pokusů na ZÓNy
BODY
počet TOPů
počet pokusů na TOPy
počet ZÓN
počet pokusů na ZÓNy
BODY
1.
PETR
RESCH
3 x TOP
0
2
2
2
0
1
2
1
1
2.
ZDENĚK
RESCH
3 x TOP
0
1
2
2
3
75
1
3
2
2
3.
JIŘÍ
PŘIBIL
3 x TOP
0
2
2
2
X
X
0
2
2
4.
JAKUB
HLAVÁČEK
3 x TOP
0
1
1
2
2
X
X
0
2
2
5.
ROSŤA
ŠTEFÁNEK
3 x TOP
0
1
2
2
3
X
X
0
2
2
6.
JIŘÍ
ŠIMANDL
3 x TOP
X
X
0
2
3
X
X
0
1
1
7.
KAREL
HEGR
3 x TOP
0
1
1
2
3
X
X
0
1
1
8.
MARTIN
PELIKÁN
3 x TOP
X
X
0
2
4
X
X
0
1
7
9.
JAKUB
BLÁHA
55 582,00
X
X
0
2
6
10.
JAROSLAV
STRAKA
3 x TOP
X
X
0
1
1
11.
JAROSLAV
MARŠÍK
3 x TOP
X
X
0
1
2
12.
VÁCLAV
PELTRÁM
3 x TOP
X
X
X
X
55 582,00
13.
STANISLAV
PLACATKA
55 582,00
X
X
X
X
55 582,00
14.
VÁCLAV
TUREK
3 x TOP
X
X
X
X
55 582,00
15.
ROMAN
HANÁČEK
55 582,00
X
X
X
X
55 582,00
16. - 18.
VIKTOR
KOULE
55 582,00
16. - 18.
JINDRA
BLÁHA
55 582,00
16. - 18.
LUKÁŠ
ČERMÁK
55 582,00
19. - 20.
MILAN
ŘEHÁK
55 582,00
19. - 20.
PETR
BABINEC
55 582,00
21. - 23.
DAVID
HAVEL
55 582,00
21. - 23.
TOMÁŠ
KOSÍK
55 582,00
21. - 23.
KAREL
SYKA
55 582,00
24.
DAVID
HAMPEJS
55 582,00
25. - 28.
JAN
JINDRA
55 582,00
25. - 28.
MIROSLAV
BERÁNEK
55 582,00
25. - 28.
MICHAL
JEŽEK
55 582,00
Světlana Kadlecová ve finále
Jitka Bursová ve finále
Jitka Křešová ve finále
Petr Resch ve finále
Zdeněk Resch ve finále
Jiří Přibil ve finále
Rosťa Štefánek ve finále
Jiří Šimandl ve finále
vítězové
V 8:00 vbíhám do budovy plzeňské Pedagogické fakulty, míjím rozespalého vrátného, taška za mnou vlaje v horizontální poloze. Ředitel a hlavní pořadatel závodu Vlasta Volák již významně pokukuje na zápěstí. Je toho ještě docela dost, co se musí stihnout před příjezdem všech závodníků. Během několika minut instalujeme High-endovou videosoupravu, která bude přenášet aktuální dění z naší, pro tyto účely až příliš útulné, Sauny do přilehlé tělocvičny. V té se již shromažďují borci s rodinami i bez a okukují přichystané ceny od Hannahu pro nejlepší z nich.
V 9:00 již držím startovní listinu v ruce, prokousávám se níž a níž a úsměv se začíná objevovat i na mé tváři. Jména typu Jarda Maršík, Rosťa Štefánek, Jirka Šimandl, Rešíci a skoro kompletní Praha v čele s Jirousem slibují nevšední kvalitu a nasazení.
Kvalifikace začíná třemi bouldery ve dvouminutových časových limitech a stejných odpočinkových intervalech pro jednotlivé závodníky. Hodnotíme top případně nejvyšší držený chyt. Vše běží jako na drátkách, topuje se vo sto šest a tak po 40 minutách máme základní selekci za sebou.
Do Semifinále se probojovává 15 nejlepších mužů. Čtyři, z kvalifikace postupující ženy, si v tomto kole odbudou i své finále. Pro každý ze dvou boulderů je čtyřminutový limit a hodnotí se již systémem Počet topů, počet zón, počet pokusů na top případně počet pokusů na zónu. Cesty jsou velmi chytré, je třeba myslet, což spousta lidí dokazuje a padá i několik topů, za mohutných ovací přítomných. Do zvláštního nadšení uvádí diváky Jakub Hlaváček, který se mi leckdy nevejde do fotoaparátu. S pokrčenými lokty bere to, co jiní skoro skákají.
Stavitelé tratí, Hynek Charvát a naturalizovaný Plzeňák Marek Leitman, přendají jen pár chytů, přidají nějakou tu nohu a již mohou nastoupit 4 nejlepší ženy ke svému finále. Naše plzeňské Jitky lezou co to jde a nakonec si rozeberou stříbrnou (Bursová) a bronzovou (Křešová). Vítězí s přehledem dravá Světlana Kadlecová z Kadaně a jde si potěžkat nový stan Hannah.
Finálový boulder číslo 1 mužů v pětiminutovém časovém limitu topují jen Rešíci a nevědomky si tak zajišťují první dvě místa. Druhý, závěrečný boulder, je nezvykle vytrvalostní a tedy dlouhý. Rosťa Štefánek odpočívá na škrabce ve stropu, Petr Resch přebírá v témž stropu nepřebratelnou bouli, davy šílí.
Zóna proklatě daleko, nad ní jen pár chytů do topu a krok ve kterém skončí všichni, co tam dolezou. Favorité tedy nad zónou již mnoho šancí k porovnání nemají a tím také rozhoduje boulder číslo 1. Jirka Přibil získává třetí místo a v již uvolněné atmosféře mimo soutěž dává pro diváky nejtěžší sekvenci a top v druhém boulderu.
Zařazujeme novinku, soutěž ve skoku z chytu do chytu. Slovenský Marek Leitman mumlá cosi ve smyslu : „To by boľo, aby …“ a po mohutném rozkejvání následuje oposkok do vzdálenosti bezmála dva metry (slovy 200 cm), který již nikdo z přítomných nedokáže zopakovat.
Následně spěcháme v prořídlé sestavě do občerstvovacího zařízení a dál si to nepamatuju.
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