Protože bouldering a obzvláště bouldering na Mlýnském vrchu je letos v módě, ihned po rachotě jsme se minulou středu nasoukali do Vlastovo Forda ve složení Já, Azbest, Martin a Vlasta a řítili se směrem na sever.
Impozantní útvar. Při první rodinné vycházce loni na podzim jsem měl jen lehké lezečky, které jsem na špičkách úplně rozerval. Kolmý nástup, který se posléze v rajbasech v některých místech uklání, k postupu slouží miniaturní kristalky na stupy i na nehťáky ostré jako břitvy. Sedmimetrovou homoli, o níž se prý v literatuře mylně polemizuje, zda to jsou menhiry (nejsou - je to přírodní vodou vymletý žulový útvar), již lezci zušlech
Vždy s očekáváním čtu pěkné články o lezení v sasku, a znovu a znovu smutně čekám, až mi místní znalec doporučí pěknou šestku, kde se nebudu muset bát. A že mi popíše, jak to vůbec najdu. A tak, protože si myslím, že je spousta takových zoufalců, co nikdy nepolezou těžké cesty, půjdu příkladem.
Rád bych Vám představil svou domácí oblast Čížkovy kameny. Tato oblast regionálního významu je tvořena pískovcovým masivem o délce cca 3 km a výšce max. 15 m. Jedná se o velmi tvrdý pískovec nabízející především lezení po kolmých nebo lehce převislých plotnách, ovšem je zde i několik poměrně zajímavých spár. Obtížnost cest se pohybuje v rozmezí I – IXc/Xa, vzhledem k malé výšce skal je obtížnost trochu tvrdší než třeba v
Pánové a dámy, je to tady. Něco takového jsem ještě v životě neviděl. Otevření tohoto velkého skvostu se možná trochu opozdilo, ale myslím si, že to na kvalitě tohoto výjimečného zařízení jedině přidalo. Všechno, co jsem Vám totiž sliboval v článku z minulého roku se totiž skutečně objevilo na scéně, jenže tak v pětinásobném rozsahu. Je to doslova nepřeberné množství atrakcí pro lezce i nelezce.
Tak jsem tady. Chtěl jsem to. Už od té chvíle, co jsem to viděl poprvé. A teď tu jen tak stojím a přemýšlím, jestli to mám zapotřebí. Mé odhodlání se blíží k bodu nula a stále intenzivněji se ven dere otázka: „ Co je lepší - být živý srab nebo ….?“. Ne, takto o tom přemýšlet nemohu. To bych neskočil. Na plakátu to vypadalo pohodově. Prostě uděláš jeden krok a je hotovo. Teď jsem na hraně, právě před tím krokem a klepu se. Třicet met
Tak jsme si zase s Oslíkem vyrazili někam zalézt a objevili jsme podle mého nějakou celkem zapomenutou oblast. Bylo tam tedy pár rezatých kruhů, ale do těch bych necvakal ani kdybyste mě nutili. Koukal jsem do průvodce, ale tam taková žádná oblast není. Mluvil jsem o tom i s Hopem a on říkal, že by to mohla bejt zpráva roku.
Před pár týdny inzeroval Petr Resch několik nových cest na Rovišti a stejně tak několik otevřených projektů. Zákopčaník předvídal na víkend tropy, v Juře všechno proteklý, tak jsme na víkend jeli k vodě.
Opět se povedlo počasí na víkend, takže hurá na skalky. Přišla na řadu volba oblasti a ta padla na skalku u Trenčína, nádherný přírodní úkaz vyrůstající v těsné blízkosti Váhu.
Rozhovor s Petrem se uskutečnil asi proto, že velmi toužil být vyzpovídám právě na našich webových stránkách.
A tak když se doslechl, že jeden z redaktorů Lezce.cz často jezdí lézt do belgické lezecké oblasti Freyr, neváhal a aby napomohl štěstěně v cestě za svým cílem, domluvil představení pro jeho společnost Divadla Bratří Formanů právě v nedalekém Namuru.
věk: něco mezi třiceti a čtyřiceti nejtěžší cesta: nějaká osma UIAA na Panťáku největší role: Čert v představení Sedlák, čert a bába a Olda ve filmu Akumulátor. nejoblíbenější oblast: francouzské skalky nejoblíbenější jídlo: čokoláda
lezec.cz : Lezení se Ti jistě líbí a baví Tě i když obtížně hledáš čas. Co se Ti na něm líbí nejvíce? Petr : Mě se líbilo, jak jsem si dnes pod stěnou lehnul a usnul jsem, ale lezení se mi taky líbí a určitě příroda. Dříve jsme se v lezení s kamarádama předháněli a výkony hrály velkou roli, dnes je to více o tom, že mi lezení přináší radost.
Love me tender 6a , Freyr
lezec.cz : Prý vozíš stále s sebou lezecký matroš, ať se jedeš s představením kamkoliv. Jak často se asi dostaneš k lezení ? Petr : V partě máme několik lidí, kteří lezou, tak se občas na skály podívám.
lezec.cz : Jaký lezecký vyžití se ti líbí nejvíc ? Máš rád lezení na pískovci, nebo spíše skalky či dokonce něco nižšího třeba bouldering ? Petr : Asi ty skalky, začal jsem lízt trochu později a protože jsem se nenarodil někde, kde bych měl pískovce za barákem, tak mě nejvíc asi dostaly ty skalky, skalky ve Francii.
Petrův druhej nejoblíbenější pes
lezec.cz : Zažil jsi při lezení nějaké dramatické okamžiky ? Petr : Zažil jsem čoveče, třeba dneska, jak jsem šel do toho kopce. Ale jasně mám ještě jiný, třeba z hor, ale dneska to bylo hrozný.
lezec.cz : Které lezecké oblasti jsou podle tebe nejhezčí a které zajímavé či atraktivní jsi navštívil ? Petr : Nejhezčí jsou skály, kde tě nemusím potkat. Ale jinak mám rád ty oblasti, kde můžeš pod skálou stát a nekloužou ti nohy. Stěna jde pěkně z roviny, ne jako dneska ve Freyr. Atraktivní lezení jsem zažil třeba v Mexiku, tam jsou oblasti hodně rozmanitý, všude kde jsem tam byl, to bylo překrásný.
Love me tender 6a , Freyr
lezec.cz : Když přijdeš pod skálu než začneš lézt, máš nějaký rituál ? Petr : Rituál ? …. Ne. Vyčurám se a jdu na to.
lezec.cz : Vzpomínám si, jak jsi v Ardéši skočil z dost vysokého útesu do vody. Máš pro strach uděláno ? Petr : Nemám, čím jsem starší, tím mám větší strach. Kolikrát jsem se dostal do situace, kdy jsem měl obavu, že již ztratím kontrolu nad svým tělem ve chvíli, kdy už by to bylo fakt blbý.
Petr : Už jsi, Jirko, řekl čtenářům, že jsi v našem souboru hrál řepu a zelí. lezec.cz : Díky za rozhovor.
Bezva rozhovor, uz jsem si rikal, ze celebrity nelezou :-)No jo, kdyz je nekdo pozitivne nabit kladnym elektrickym polem, to se to leze po osmach. Zdravim vlka, Oldu, repu i zeli :-))
Zapsal: kamilh, 09:17:48 07.06.2002
Pozdrav
Zdravím Petra,nevím jestli si ještě pamatuje(Litoměřice).Bylo by možné získat Petrovu
E-mailovou adresu?
Dobry napad delat rozhovory taky s lidma, co nelezou cecka. Dalsi vhodnej kandidat na rozhovor by byl Lukas Polert. Parkrat jsem ho videl na Ruzyni a docela mu to slo.
Jirko, dik za rozhovor, to ze Petr leze sem nevedel, jinak ho jako herce a kumstyre fakt zeru. Tak at mu to leze. Hore zdar
Zapsal: Davidos, 11:42:53 11.06.2002
Celebrity
Když už jste u těch "celebrit", taky jsem viděl lézt Martina Veselého (NOVA - Áčko) a tak nějak je v horolezetcví navazená Jana Paulová.
Kriste nebude z lezce nakonec Štastnej Jim?
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