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Kategorie:
 Sportovní lezení v Rumunsku
Lezení v nevšedních oblastech stále přibývá. Obyčejné jejich nevšednost je přímo úměrná vzdálenosti, od centra Evropy tedy z Čech a pro řadu lezců cestovatelů tudíž nedostupné.
Komentáře (726)05.04.2002... celý článek
 FONTAINEBLEAU
SOBOTA
Pro lezení na další den volíme znovu Bas Cuvier a pouštíme se znovu do boje s jednotlivými bouldry.
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 Super bouldering v Ležkách
Prima zážitky z boulderingu v Ležkách - pověst nelžou je tu krásně a je tu co lézt.
Komentáře (4)02.04.2002... celý článek
 metodika-navazování
Jelikož se na Lezci rozmáhají metodistické debaty-což mě velice těší,tak jsem si pro vás připravil pár námětů na debatu.
Dnes-navazování.
Zajímalo by mě jakým uzlem se kdo navazuje.Vážete na úvazek stále tolik oblíbenou leč méně bezpečnou Dračí smyčku nebo používáte Osmičku?Já osobně zastávám názor že Osmička je daleko bezpečnější a pokud na jejím konci uděláte navíc pojistku tak se na 100% nemůže rozvázat.Naopak Dračák má dost nevýhod.Jednou z nejvážnějších je podle mého názoru mo
Komentáře (1215)30.03.2002... celý článek
 jištění na štandu
Můj článek o bezpečnosti „příhoda v Řeži“ vzbudil zatím rekordní množství ohlasů. Mám takový pocit, že stejně se nakonec všichni neshodneme, ale troufám si tvrdit, že diskuse o podobných tématech je velice důležitá, a že se snad pár lidí probudilo a začalo vůbec o takových problémech uvažovat. Mám tady další téma: Jištění na štandu.
Komentáře (201)28.03.2002... celý článek
 FONTAINEBLEAU
Tak se mi konečně podařilo dát dohromady článek o naší návštěvě Fontainebleau a budu Vám ho zde na Lezci postupně servírovat v několika dílech.
Komentáře (12)25.03.2002... celý článek
 BÍDA CUP 2002
DAVID CHUDOBA společně se SUMMIT DRIVE s.r.o.
Vás zvou na premiéru outdoorového závodu.
Komentáře (2)25.03.2002... celý článek
 Bouldering ve Stanage
jestli rádi cestujete a hlavně boulderujete nenechte si ujít super lezení v Peak District v Anglii.Jedinečný materiál,místňáky nazývaný \"gritstone\", umožňuje pohyb i po nejpekelnějších oblinách.
Komentáře (42)21.03.2002... celý článek
 Jak jsme nevylezli Eiger…
Před několika dny jste na tomto místě mohli sledovat naše snažení v Harlinově cestě v severní stěně Eigeru prostřednictvím kusých informací z SMS. Tady je popis, jak to tam vypadalo v reálu…
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 Vrůtky - Boulder závody
Fuck off Jirousovo koleno! Ten blboun si ho...
Komentáře (1139)19.03.2002... celý článek
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Sportovní lezení v Rumunsku

Beta

Lezení v nevšedních oblastech stále přibývá. Obyčejné jejich nevšednost je přímo úměrná vzdálenosti, od centra Evropy tedy z Čech a pro řadu lezců cestovatelů tudíž nedostupné.

Nově objevený potenciál pro sápaly zdá se být Rumunsko a sice jeho severní část, která z Čech není tak vzdálena a ze Slovenska je jen coby kamenem dohodil.
Reliéf krajiny přechází od rovin až k 2500 m vysokým vrcholům, které jsou převážně tvořeny vápencem.


Historie a popis:
Lezecká historie se v Rumunsku datuje k začátku 20 století, v tuto dobu je ale orientována především na výstupy v Alpách, Kavkazu a jiné velehory.
Po politických změnách roku 1990, přichází plynulý nárůst počtu lezců a tvorba cest v Rumunských oblastech, sportovního charakteru. Až na současných X [8b].
Jedním z nejvýraznějších lezců je Olivier Batar, který začal psát historii sportovního lezení a na jehož pažbě jsou i nejhlubší zářezy v podobě nejtěžších cest v Rumunsku. Cesty jsou zajištěny v západním stylu a jsou po příjemně strukturovaném pevném vápenci.

Přístup:
Hlavním centrem pro oblast  Lacu Rosu - Cheile Bicazului je město Lacu Rosu  –  počáteční bod pro všechny turistické výlety v pohoří Hasmas. Lacu Rosu leží státní silnici DN 12C, která spojuje Bicaz a Gheorghieni. Na silnici se nachází také stěny Cheile Bicazului asi 8 km od vesnice Bicaz Chei a Lacu Rosu. Přístup do této oblasti je nejlepší autem právě z DN 12 C, ale je možný i vlakem z Bicazu či Gheorghieni.



Lezecké oblasti:
· Cheile Bicazului
· Herculane
· Cheile Turzii
· Sinaia


CHEILE BICAZULUI

Je asi nejlepší oblastí s nejkvalitnějším vápencovým lezením v pěkné přírodě. Díky obětavým lidem v průběhu posledních let vzniklo velké množství moderních sportovních cest a vytvořilo se zde jádro těžkého a kvalitního sportovního lezení. Oblast nabízí přes 300 cest v 10 sektorech zvaných zóny (přístup max. 5min). Klasifikace převažuje mezi stupni 8-9, ale je zde i velké množství cest pro začátečníky. Cesty jsou převážně v kolmých i převislých stěnách. Charakter lezení osciluje od lezení po malých škrabkách a dirkách až po lezení po hlubokých děrách v převisech. Skála je pevná a je tedy možné lézt, díky dobrému zajištění a slaňovacím řetězům na koncích cest, v bezpečí. Stačí 50m lano.


Ubytování

Je zde široký výběr od hotelů až po chat s možností stravování.


Sektory a Cesty

FALEZA ASCUNSA

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Coma  8  15 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
2  Euthanasia  9  15 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
3  Death Angel  8-  15 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 


ZONA "7 NOIEMBRIE"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Facelift  10/10+?  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2001 
2  Vertical  8  1 LC  Eduard Prosza  2001 
3  Autobiografie  10/10+?  10 m.  Oliver Batar  2001 

ZONA "HORNUL MARE"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Acces  6-  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
2  El Dorado  8  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
3  Desperado  8  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
4  T-Rex  8-/8  22 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
4  Denko  8-  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
5  Kuss-Kuss  8/8+  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
6  Kaua-Kaua  8-  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
7  Freestyler  9-/9  18 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
8  Pino  7/7+  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
9  Pinocchio  7  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
10  Pinball  9-  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
11  Gepetto  7+  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 

ZONA "GÂTUL IADULUI"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Straight Line  6  1 LC  Florian Mastacan, Viorel Tofan  2001 
2  Papaligal  6+  1 LC   
3  Direct Action  10-  22 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
4  Killer Edge  9+/10-  22 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
5  Metro  8-/8  25 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 
6  Take A Nap  8/8+  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2001 
7  Take A Break  9  18 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
8  Spiderman  9+/10-  18 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
9  Merda  7+  20 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 
10  Jumbo  8  18 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
11  Take Off  8  20 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 
12  Take A Beer  8+?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
13  Latin Express  7/7+  20 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 
14  Hopa Sus  7  20 m.  Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor  1991 

ZONA "LA IZVOR"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Acid Galactic  10-  16 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
2  Styks  7-  16 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
3  Du-ti Free  9-  16 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 

BOLOVANU LU CULITA

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Little Dick  8  10 m.   
2  Face To Ass  8+  10 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
3  Scarface  8+  11 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
4  7-Up  7  12 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 

ZONA "TURNUL NEGRU"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Arthur  9-  19 m.  Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan  2001 
1  Excalibur  7  19 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
3  Merlin  8?  19 m.  Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan  2001 
4  Arnold  7-  20 m.  Casian Sanduta  1991 

ZONA "CASUTE FISURA NEAGRA"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Fete de Fete  6  15 m.   
2  Baga Dreapta  7/7+  20 m.   
3  Albinutza  7+?  15 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
     
FALEZA "K2"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  G-Force  10-?  25 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
2  Breakdance  9+/10-  25 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2000 
3  Mambo  9-  25 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
4  Dirtydance  8+  25 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza, Viorel Tofan  2000 
5  Rocada  9-/9  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2001 
6  Asfalt Tango  9-  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2001 
7  Painkiller  9+/10-  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2000 
8  Matrix  9  1 LC  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
9  Adelante  9-  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza  2000 
10  Insomnia  10-  25 m.  Oliver Batâr  2000 
11  Super Nova  9+  25 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
12  Nova  9  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
13  Stairway To Heaven  7+  20 m.  Florian Mastacan  2001 
14  Chic  8?  10 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 

FALEZA "SCORPION"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Fresh & Free  9-  16 m.  Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan  2001 
2  Scorpionul  7+?  25 m.  Francisc Heghedusz  1989 
3  Lucky Strike  9  16 m.  Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan  2001 

FALEZA "RAZA SOARELUI"

Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA)  Tvůrce  Rok
1  Martin  7+  20 m.  Michael Bucholtzer  1991 
2  Minerul Max  8  25 m.  Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu  2001 
3  Ave Maria Max  8  25 m.  Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu  2001 
4  Morpheus  8  15 m.  Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta  1991 
5  Calypso  8  15 m.  Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta  1991 
6  Poseidon  8  15 m.  Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta  1991 
7  Kamikaze  9-  25 m.  Gabi Tofan  1991 
8  Hellspown  8+?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
9  Borobox  8/8+?  20 m.  Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu  2001 
10  Cap Horn  7/7+  25 m.  Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu  2001 
11  OK! My Brother  7+  20 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
12  Glissando  9+  25 m.  Viorel Tofan  1991 
13  Natural Blues  8-/8?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2001 
14  Saridon  7+?  15 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2001 
15  Relax  7-  15 m.  Dan Duta  1991 
16  Delta  7?  15 m.  Dan Duta  1991 
17  LH  7  2 LC  Liviu Horga  1991 
18  Miana  7+  20 m.  Simion Poiana, Lucian Mihai  1992 
19  Ioana  6+  2 LC  Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu  1978 
20  Sarpele  6  25 m.  Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu  1978 
21  Ela  8-/8  25 m.  Simion Poiana, Dan Duta  1991 
22  Warm Up  5+  25 m.  Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu  1978 
23  Lynx  7  25 m.  Simion Poiana, Dan Duta  1991 
24  Pas Final  7  25 m.  Gabi Tofan, Simion Poiana  1991 
25  Caruta cu Fraieri  7+  25 m.  Simion Poiana, Dan Duta  1991 
26  Prietenia  8?  1 LC  Viorel Tofan  2001 
27  Happy End  9?  1 LC  Oliver Batâr  2001 
28  Broad Peak  8  10 m.  Simion Poiana, Florin Botescu  1992 
29  No More PC  8-?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2001 
30  Secret Ground  8?  20 m.  Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan  2001 
31  Body & Soul  8-/8  16 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 
32  Rotpunkt  7  25 m.   
33  Red Alert  8  16 m.  Oliver Batâr  2001 

Kdo by  se chtěl dovedět více či si zajistit ubytování a další služby nechť smělě kontaktuje Oliviera Batara,Š neboť on je tvůrcem řady cest, průvodců a jeho živností je cestovní kancelář pro lezce v jeho zemi.
Jemu děkuji i za podrobné informace.
oliver_climb@yahoo.com

JirkaS   [úpravy] 10:48 05.04.2002Tisk 

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