Tato mini oblástka u Oska ( okr. Teplice ) se nachází asi 5 km od Litvínova. Je zde jeden lehký masiv ( viz loňská Montana nebo průvodce po Krušných horách) a skalní městečko s vesměs lehkými bouldery.
Vzhladom na to, ze sa ako vzdy veci komplikuju surne hladame k posadke 3 ludi (dve baby a ja) jedneho lezuceho chlapa na 2 tyzdnovy vyjazd do Francuzka (Buoux, Verdon, Chatouveart, Calanques, Ceuse). Odchadzame zajtra t.j. 17.08. popripade az v sobotu z Bratislavy. Kontakt 00421 2 647 805 46, alebo 00421 2 4820 1242. Bresto
Přečetl jsem si komentář k mému v nedávné době napsanému článku a velice mě rozčílilo, že si někdo myslí, že kromě Hopa nemám s lezením nic společnýho. Rozhořčilo mě to totiž natolik, že jsem tento víkend s mým kamarádem Oslíkem vyrazil na nedaleký kopec Chlum (pod ním jsou skály, aby mě někdo nechytal zase za slovo), který je kousek za Plzní. Vzhledem k tomu, že při vyndavání sedáku ze skříně (ležel tam tak tři roky) vypadlo i klubko vzniklých pavučin a v lezečkách jsem našel něco jako silonky,
Ahoj hledam par lidicek kteri by si chteli udelat vejlet do Francie.Jde o pomoc opravit jeden malej hrad spis zamek.Po dokonceni tam budou jezdit deti z detskych domovu jak z Cech tak i z Francie.
Po tréninku nebo po namáhavém lezeckém dni dochází nejdříve k poklesu sportovní výkonnosti pak následuje nárůst, nazýváme ho superkompenzace. Když nasadíme nové zatížení před tím než se bude nárůstová křivka vyrovnávat, tzn. před tím , než si zcela odpočneme bude naše výkonnost stále stoupat.
Jednoho pochmurného červencového dne, kdy nebylo co dělat, jsme konečně zrealizovali s Petrem dlouho plánovanou akci. Domluvili jsme se, že si slaníme z mostu pro pěší, který vede nad Labem v Toušeni, dole si zakouříme a pak vyprusíkujem zpátky nahoru.
Na místo činu jsme se dopravili na kolech. Obhlídli jsme most z vrchu. Výška mostovky v nejvyšším bodě činní něco přes 10 metrů, takže to není zrovna Ždákovskej most.
Okolo lávky vedly tři silná ocelová táhla. Za ně jsme hodili plo
Tato mini oblástka u Oska ( okr. Teplice ) se nachází asi 5 km od Litvínova. Je zde jeden lehký masiv ( viz loňská Montana nebo průvodce po Krušných horách) a skalní městečko s vesměs lehkými bouldery.
Prvních 10 boulderů v průvodci je převislých, zbytek ( většina - v průvodci je jen výběr ) je kolmá. Spousta dalších vesměs lehkých boulderů nemá název ani přesnou klasifikaci. Také na mapce nejsou všechny kameny, kterých je v okruhu asi 100m rozeseto spousty. Je zde jen centrální nejzajímavější část skalního městečka.
První počin tu vytvořil asi v r. 1998 Petr Resh z Berouna - Kyselý bombóny ( 7A ) a v součastnosti je asi nejtěžší místní kreací Diamonion ( 7C ) od Vítka Štítovce z Mostu přelezený v r.2001.
Klasifikace boulderů je orientační ( Fb ) a vychází ze zkušeností zdejších protagonistů ze Srbska a Frankenjury. Většina boulderů má špatný doskok, takže bouldermatka je zde téměř nezbytnou nutností.
Oblast je schovaná v listnatém lese a tak se dá lézt i v létě, ale déle vysychá ( cca den ). Nejlepší je však jaro a podzim.
1 Diamonion 7C
2 Sprchový gel 7B
3 Falická žena 7A+ #
4 Kaselý bombóny 7A
5 Volný pád 7A
6 Perfect day 6C+ #
7 Dancing without edge 6C+
8 Šimpanzodrom 6B tr
9 Antišimpanzodrom 6B tr
10 Rest day ( = 8 + 9 ) 6C tr
11 Hardware 6B
12 Ťava ( značeno ) 6B
13 Vosátor 6B
14 Brainstorming 6B tr
15 Jízdní kolo 6A+ #
16 Software 6A+ tr
17 Rastaman 6A+
18 Smash 6A #
19 One stone show 6A
20 Hrana slunečníka 6A
21 Dynamo Kijev 5
22 No name 6B+ #
23 Spára 6A+
24 Rajbas 5
25 Hrana 6A+
# . . . ze sedu
Autoři
Vít Štítovec: 1-3,5,8,9,11-16,18,21
Martin Štítovec: 6,19
Petr Resh: 4,7,10
neznámý: 17,20-25
Děkuji Vítkovi za uvedené informace a fotky. Máte-li někdo k dispozici nějaké připomínky či upřesnění, prosím zašlete je.
Bohužel keci to nejsou.V roce 1998 urcite Resh neudelal první prelez.Tyhle cesty uz mají davno sve jmeno a sve premozitele.Není prece fer,ze někdo prijde, prepise je a podepise pod ne.Když chci zverejnit tak pekne místo u Oseka,tak se zajimam o jeho historii.Kdo tu lezl a jak se cesty jmenuji.Nebudu je prece vydavat za sve.Spouste lidem se to nebude libit.Hlavne tem,kterych se to tyka.
Zapsal: Neznamý lezec, 11:51:04 28.08.2001
Aha
Ale proc pak nevyuzit diskuse. Od toho diskuze je, do ni je mozne pak napsat, tohle a tohle neni pravda, cestu udelal, ten a tehdy.
Jo cesta, k zjisteni skutecnosti je trnita a ego byva nesmirne.
P.s.: Vetsinu lidi stejne jen zajima, kde cestu najdou a jak je tezka.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 13:35:21 28.08.2001
Mas pravdu
Je pravda v tom,ze lidi moc nezajima kdo a kdy cestu udelal.Ale napsat by se to melo.Dam si tu praci a zkusim zjistit prave puvodce cest a datum jeji prelezeni,uz jenom pro zajimavost.Chci jeste rict vsem kdo pojedou k Oseku.Vemte si s sebou repelent proti komarum.Je jich tam priserne moc.Ale lezeni je moc pekne.
Zapsal: Neznamý lezec, 14:58:00 28.08.2001
Super reakce
Super reakce neznámý lezče. Musim přiznat, že tvoje první komentáře mě docela vytočili (asi jako Jirku) ale tímhle sis to u mě napravil. Lidí co jenom kecaj a kritizujou a sami nic nenapíšou je spousta. Už jsem myslel že mezi ně patříš i ty.
Navíc si myslím že autor článku o Oseku chybu neudělal záměrně, ale určitě psal článek s nejlepším vědomím - sdělit info lezecké obci.
Těším se na tvé upřesňující informace.
Stručná historie lezení na "Salesiovce" je popsána na nových stránkách HO Bořeň - http://mujweb.cz/Sport/boren/index.html . Bohužel tam už není plánek, který jsem k tomuto článku také dodal. Pokud by měl někdo zájem, mám i měkteré další info k cestám (i k boulderům) a to hlavně z dob dávno minulých (80-tá léta).
Jen pro uplnost t vise uvedenych peknych stranek pristup:
Z Oseka u Duchcova po žluté turistické značce nebo po trase naučné stezky, popř. po silnici vedoucí na Dlouhou Louku. Z druhé strany, tj. od Litvínova je nejlepší přístup z konečné autobusu MHD č. 13 v Loučné. Dále po silnici směrem na Osek a od rozcestníku lesem po žluté tur. značce až ke skalám.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 17:06:27 07.09.2001
Polárník 7C+/8A traverz
Během posledních závodů v Teplicích (Boulderkolotoč)jsme tam s Víťou a Martinem Pelikánem zajeli a přelezl jsem tam traverz Polárník. Je to varianta Sprchového gelu, kdy ve střední části nepoužíváte velké římsy dole, ale pokračujete stále ve stejné úrovni podél jemné trhlinky až na konec. Byl to takový místní projekt Víťi Štítkovce a Jardy Maršíka. (viz. foto 2 a 3) Klasifikaci bych tipnul někde kolem 7c+/8a traverz, ale vzhledem k celkem extrémním podmínkám (-10 st. C a pouze jedna lezečka) si až tak úplně jistý nejsem.
Zapsal: Rosťa Š., 09:45:25 25.10.2002
Polárník???!!!
Rosťo, ty nejsi Štefánek, ty jsi Terminator ;-). Zkoušel jsi někdy bouldrovat jen s jednou rukou? Měj se fajn, Honza.
Nebýt posledního komentáře, ani si nevšimnu, že je to rok starý článek, ale hlavně rok staré komentáře. Takhle je vidět, že přestože byly ve článku uvedeny (a jistě nikoli úmyslně) mylné informace, nebyl ani po roce učiněn pokus o jejich nápravu. Vítek uvařil článek, který se snažil být co možná nejinformativnější, z toho, co měl při ruce. Rozhodně v tom nebyl úmysl někoho propagovat či zviditelňovat. Ale kde vzít pravdu, když ti, kdo ji znají, nemají snahu ji předat dál?
Mimochodem Rosťovej bouldr bude docela dost gut, teda jestli je Rosťovej.
Věřím, že jsem se nedotkl něčí ješitnosti a pravdu se dozvíme.
Petr Resch
Zapsal: pr, 15:08:12 25.10.2002
Sprchový gel a Polárník
Sprchový gel je boulder, který bych i v Bleau považoval za jeden z nejhezčích. Za špičky prstů, lehce převislý s celkem slušnými stupy. Uprostřed je velká římsa, kterou je třeba vzít u pasu na spoďáka. Ani nevadí, že je to traverz. Já je zas tak nemusím. Dodneška jsem si ale na Gel nenašel čas na celý přelez. To jen pro úplnost.
Polárník se leze bez spoďáku a přál bych si to vidět lézt. Nikoliv pro to, že bych Rosťovi nevěřil, chraň bůh, ale čistě pro ten požitek.
Jinak, místní kluci věnovali dost energie na osazení některých počinů nýty a to nejen na velkém masívu. Některé věci se dají tedy lézt i odspodu. Od Oseka nečekejte zázraky, ale malé očekávání nezklame.
Zapsal: Jarda Maršík, 17:41:42 26.10.2002
očekávání
dost mě překvapilo, že to tenkrát Jirous tak sprdnul, jako že je to hnusný a tak. Myslím, že se to částečně vyrovná Ležkám nebo Petrohradu, i když pochopitelně v menším. Dost doporučuju bouldermatku, nebo radši několik a někoho na chytání, protože většina především lehčích boulderů má smrtelný dopady.
Zapsal: Rosťa Š., 18:51:56 26.10.2002
Ty vole, Hopíku, nedávej tam tydle starý kváky!
Zapsal: Luky, 12:38:39 27.10.2002
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GPS a mapové aplikace