Každý lezec si jednoho krásného deštivého a chmurného dne uvědomí, že už v Montaně přečetl všechny články a že už ta nudná hrazda mezi dveřmi není to pravé. Přichází období, kdy lezec kutil vzpomíná na staré časy – oprava lezeček, nový maglajzpytlík, vlastnoručně ušitý sedák, který nikdy nepoužil,…
H.O.K.N. (horolezecký oddíl Karla Němce - Plzeň) pořádá ve čtvrtek 14.3. v 19.00 hodin v divadle Dialog v Plzni přednášku lékařky Společnosti horské medicíny na téma:
Horolezectví - první pomoc a záchrana v horách
Upřesňuji informace o vítězství Saši Holkové na závodech v boulderingu v Bouldru v USA, o němž už se objevily kusé informace na Lezci. Saša vyhrála zatím všechny místní závody až na jeden, který vyhrála Simona Ulmonová. Simča je silná ukrutně, ale natažené bouldry po oblinách má problémy vyskákat. V březnu se těchto závodů má zůčastnit celá Amerika.
Na 8a. nu se ted rozbiha velmi prinosna a zajimava diskuze ohledne terminu zdolani cesty Redpoint. Definice by mela byt asi nasledujici: volne prelezeni cesty s procvakavanim jisticich prostredku v kuse. Mnozi ale v dnesnich dnech praktikuji z bezpecnostnich (ci moralnich, ci jinych) duvodu metodu procvaknutych 1-2 nytu, coz je v praxi tolerovano.
Před pár dny Ležec teoretik zveřejnil svůj úspěšný a přínosný článek o stavbě boulderové stěny.
Předběhl mě, já ho budu trochu kopírovat a přináším také návod na stavbu boulderové stěny.
Nechtěje však konkurovat autorovi nebo dokonce snad s ním být nějak spojován, pokusím se o zcela jinou a sice úsměvnou formu příspěvku, jako protipól jeho seriózního návodu.
(jen na okraj, to bylo řečí, když Ležec opouštěl základní školu ve čtvrté třídě, aby ji dochodil na pomocné škole a dnes prosím píše na Lezce.cz)
Začít stavět svoji vlastní lezeckou stěnu na konci zimy je na jedné straně hloupost, neboť energii vloženou do stavby, jsi mohl příjemně vybít na skalách někde v jižní Itálii, ale na druhé straně, co tam když stejně nic nevylezeš. Chybí ti síla a pro její získání právě domácí boulderingová stěna. DBS je vynikající nejen pro sílu, ale umožní ti udržet si pohyblivost přes období, kdy nemůžeš vyrazit na skály. A v případě, ze nebydlíš třeba v blízkosti skvělého Boulderbaru, není jiná možnost, než si postavit DB stěnu vlastni. Jak na to ?
Plánování a návrh
Předtím než na to vlítneš, řekni si, co vlastně chceš trénovat. Sílu ? Tu nejlépe natrénuješ, když zatížíš tělo těžkými silovými kroky a praskající šlachy podrobíš pak několika brutálním sériím. Na to nepotřebuješ stěnu příliš velkou stačí opravdu malá převislá stěnka s mini chyty.
Vytrvalost ? Tu naopak natrénuješ v delším tréninku za lepši chyty v převisech. Pro tento typ tréninku pak budeš potřebovat strmější-více převislou stěnu a ta zase trochu více podlahového místa a vůbec prostoru.
Po tom, co si určíš svoje cíle a rozhodneš jaký typ stěnky chceš, můžeš se držet těchto základních pravidel, které ti pomůžou postavit stěnu efektivní pro daný typ tréninku.
Povedená stěnka
Volba
Když přijdeš ke skále můžeš si vybrat s desítek cest. Na tvé stěně doma to bude slabší, ale přesto bys měl se snažit o co největší variabilitu. Zajímavé tvary na stěně ti dovolí udržet motivaci a neznudí tak rychle jako rovná deska. Naše zkušenosti s tréninkem na cvičných stěnkách nás naučili, že největší nepřítel je nuda. To znamená že, buď vynalézavý. Tvoje možnosti limitovány jen časem a penězi. Ale při troše přemýšlení můžeš mít spoustu lezení i v malém prostoru. Tip: Nestav si stěnku ve stejné místnosti, kde spíš, ani obývací pokoj není nejlepším útočištěm, při lezení je z magnézia velké množství prachu a ten není dobré mít v plicích ani na nábytku. Zde vidíte příklad jednoduché stěnky vhodné i do bytu v paneláku a její dřevenou konstrukci
Vertikální ?
První věc které se vyhni je umístění chytů pouze na vertikální stěnu. Po čase bys zjistil, že všechny pohyby jsou více méně stejné a začalo by tě to nudit a pro vytvoření problémů bys musel jít cestou zmenšování chytů a to není po čase zdravé pro prsty.
Vyber si místo: základem je pevná stěna či konstrukce , ke které můžeš svoji stěnu ukotvit a proměř dobré dopadové místo.
Pak si udělej si obrázek, jak bys chtěl, aby stěna v místnosti/prostoru vypadala.
Doporučuji si udělat stěnu menší než 3,5 m s jednoduchou topografií. Navrhni si převis, tupý kout a nebo dokonce pasáž s obrácenými schody. Můžeš zkusit hranu či horizontální strop. Pokud možno vyhni se kolmým pasážím. Jestliže jsi hodně věříš můžeš zkusit i obloukové prohnutou desku tkz. Buben. Při přidání již jen nepatrného množství profilů se ti variabilita pohybů znásobí. Řiď se pravidlem, udělat si z lezeni na stěně zábavu, to ti pomůže vyhnout se stereotypu.
Příklad nejjednoduššího uchycení
Pak postav odpovídající rám stěny z dřevěných trámků 5 x 10cm (pro stěny do 2,5 m) nebo 5 x 15 (pro stěny vyšší než 3,6 m a nebo hodně převislé) spoj trámky standardní truhlářskou technikou, užij přitom samořezné šrouby do dřeva. Tip: Náročnější je prohnutá deska, ale i ta je při troše píle zvládnutelná. Jasně bude to stát více času a peněz, ale vyplatí se to.
Rozložení buldoků
Jednou z nejčastějších otázek je: Jak hustou síť děr s buldoky mám udělat ? Především je důležité si zapamatovat, že díry a buldoky je třeba vsadit do desky před samotným uchycením desky na rám. Jen tak se vám podaří je usadit kolmo, bytelně a vůbec správně.
Nejčastěji doporučovaná je \"náhodná\" síť buldoků tak, aby byly od sebe vzdáleny asi 15 cm. viz obrázek. Tato síť dobře pokryje plochu a přitom nebude monotónní.
Rozložení buldoků
Chyty
Je mnoho výrobců chytů, kteří vesměs produkují skvělé a v případě výrobců z Čech i relativně levné chyty. Na našich stránkách je možné si vybrat celou variaci skvělých Dandyho chytů. Jsou perfektní a asi nejlevnější co znám. Můžeš si tedy vybrat typ a tvar a naladit si svou stěnu jak chceš, aby vyhovovala tvému tréninkovému programu. Můžeš je mít ve variantách S,M,L,XL a aby to nebylo málo, ještě navíc extra small a extra large.
Ještě bych se rád zmínil o chytech zapuštěných, které se více blíží realitě lezení na skále. S nimi je možné na stěnu umístit dvou tří prstové dírky a používat je také jako stupy, to je trochu jiný kafe. Tyto chyty jsou také jednoduše k sehnání. Jsou o něco dražší, neboť k jejich výrobě je potřeba více materiálu a jejich montáž je jen o chloupek složitější. Je náročná je hlavně na přesnost.
Buldog a imbus buldok ještě nezakousnutý
Kolik chytů bys měl dát na stěnu? Počet samozřejmě závisí jen a jen na tobě, ale přiměřený počet se považuje 50 - 60 chytů na 3m2.. Samozřejmě můžeš začít s daleko menším počtem a časem další dokoupit. Je také možné si chyty vyrobit sám, ale o tom až někdy příště. Tip: Je třeba určit jistě množství chytů asi 25 procent, které budou sloužit jako stupy.
Přichycení chytu
Každý chyt je přišroubován 12 mm imbusovým šroubem do tkz. buldoku. Což je matka s ozuby , které se zakousnou do dřeva. Buldok je natrvalo zatlučen do zadní stěny desky. Chyt je pak možné lehce upínat odendávat uvolňovat otáčet a vůbec modifikovat podle přání. Dej jen pozor a utáhni ho akorát, aby se neprotočil a ani nepraskl.
Příklad uchycení chytu
Detail chytu zapuštěného
Varování:
Může se stát, že se ti lezení po tvé stěně tak zalíbí , že již nikdy nepolezeš po skutečné skále.
Barva/Texturová barva
Přírodně zemité tóny barev vytváří realistický a hrubá/písková textura více přiblíží tvou stěnu realitě skály. Desky nejdříve dobře nech vyschnout a pak válečkem natři.
Kalkulace
Stavba vlastní boulderingové stěny je velká zábava a výzva. Jako každá správná zábava také stavba stěny něco stoji a proto už šetři a na závěr článku se dovíš i o kalkulaci ceny.
Desky
Překližka vodovzd. - smrk, topol, olše 2300 x 1220 mm
tloušťka Cena bez DPH
8 128,-
10 147,-
12 174,-
15 216,-
Dřevo třískové desky surové 2840x1830 mm
tloušťka Cena bez DPH
18 75,00 Kc
19 80,00 Kc
22 92,00 Kc
25 103,00 Kc
DTD-deska pero+drážka 1800x900 mm
tloušťka Cena bez DPH
15 98,00 Kc
16 102,00 Kc
18 112,00 Kc
19 117,00 Kc
Dendyho chyty viz Hot Stone.
Kdo ví další cenové a jiné tipy, nechť se podělí a přispěje s troškou do mlýna.
za pomoc děkuji stránám www.metoliusclimbing.com kde take můžete najít další info v angličtině.
V obchode to znaji pod nazvem truhlařské matky nebo tak nejak.
Maji to v lepsich železářstvích v oddeleni sroubů do dreva atd. hlavne to nekupuj v lezeckých obchodech, kde je obcas také maji, ale pekne drahy.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 10:30:42 21.02.2002
Promiň JirkoS...
Promiň JirkoS, ale za to, že někdo navštěvoval pomocnou školu se vůbec nemusí stydět. Napadlo Tě vůbec někdy, že děti se na tuto školu dostanou i s jiným postižením než jaké si tu všem chtěl nastínit. Omlouvám tvůj čin, protože věřím, že tvou ruku vedla ruka ďábla, ne, nech mě domluvit, já vím, že tu školu si nepodpálil ty, ale ten ďábel jak stále tvrdíš. Jenom prosím tě nesmíš příště udělat tu stejnou a velice hloupou chybu. V pondělí si do školy přinesl benzín, ve středu sirky, a ve čtvrtek si mi několikrát upozorňoval, abych v pátek raději do školy nechodil. Musel jsem to někomu říct, a i přesto, že jsme oba dva nedokončili tu čtvrtou třídu, myslel jsem si, že už si mi odpustil.
Asi ne...
Takovej navod tady chybel....akorat sem netusil ze je to tak financne narocny:( K tomu uchyceni na retezech-nebude se to pak cely "houpat" pri dynamickejch krocich??
Pruzit by to nemelo, pokud udelas ram steny dostatecne tuhy a spodek chytis do pantu.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 11:56:21 21.02.2002
Re: Buldoky
K tým "buldokom"... : Vola sa to oficialne "narazacie matice" a najlacnejsie sa daju zohnat vo velkoskladoch s materialom pre vyrobcov nabytku (teda aspon v SR :-)), v specializovanych obchodoch alebo zeleziarstvach byva cena aj 20!-nasobne vyssia... Inak fajn clanok (konecne), kazdy s tym robi hrozne tajnosti. Osobne by ma zaujimali skusenosti s uchytenim chytov na strop. Dik a caf all :-)
Este ma napadlo: Ja som robil stienku z takzvanej "sparovky", makke drevo (borovica alebo smrek), su to platne o rozmeroch cca 85x250cm a jeden plat vysiel okolo 800 KS, co si myslim ze je lacnejsie, dost dobre to aj vyzera, napenetroval som to a ked do toho pri narazani buldokov nemlatite bezhlavo, tak ani nepraska a vsetko na nej drzi vyborne....Caute
Gdo nema penize na preklizku a nechce delat strop, tak mu staci drevotriska 22mm (mozna i min), ktera je o dost levnejsi.
Zapsal: Trojkař, 17:47:30 21.02.2002
Dřevotřísk
Pokud jsi lehčí a máš v okolí tzv. dřevoprodej, zajdi za skladníkem a zkus se s ním domluvit, oni používají při zvazování balíku kvalitních podýhovaných ploten svrchu a zespodu surovou dřevotřísku (tl. 18 mm), s kterou někteří tajně kšeftují. Já ji mívám za 200 českých.
Nejlevnější varianta - dvě velký palety ze sádrokartonu a sololit, dřevěné chyty, osmičky šrouby, naklopit a lezeš!Když nevíš, jestli tě to bude bavit, dobrej začátek, ne? A máte to ZADARMO !
Zapsal: Pepíno, 08:35:37 22.02.2002
buldoky sezenes na www.pilka.cz to neni reklama cau
Zapsal: pepino, 10:23:41 22.02.2002
b.f.
K tej najlacnejsej variante co na pisal Pepino? Neviete niekto
aky by mal byt ten sadrokarton hruby? a naco sa pouziva ten sololit?
buldok-10-1,99-TWD Banská Bystrica.Dřevotříska 25mm II.třída 2750/1830mm cca 700 Sk,Bučina Zvolen.Imbus 8/80-5,40 Ivan sro.B.B.
Zapsal: caballo, 21:26:23 25.02.2002
Dřevotřísku ne !
Mám zkušenost s dřevotřískou.Měl jsem ji před pár lety na půdě v baráku připevněnou zevnitř na trámy. Po cca 2 letech se nejvíc zatížené buldoky v horším případě vytrhly i s kusem dřevotřísky,v lepším jen protočily. Jsou to holt jenom lisovaný piliny.Mám tam teď překližku silnou 22 mm( odpad u nás z fabriky z transportních beden) a mám klid a prsty nezlámaný.
Do dřevotřísky buldoky v žádném případě. My máme na bouldrovce místo nich matky navařené na čtvercové podložky z asi 3mm plechu (30x30mm)a dvěma vruty přišroub. k dřevotřísce. Už nám to takhle slouží 7 let, a to i ve stropě.ZDAR
Zapsal: Miláno, 13:08:45 26.02.2002
To si delate srandu, ne???
Predevcirem sem do drevotrisky (22) natloukl 40 buldoku. Ale moje drevotriska je pokryta nakou tvrdou deskou. Doufam, ze mi to vydrzi! Mam sanci aspon na tri roky? Mam sklon asi 20 stupnu bez stropu. Velky chyty dam rovnou do stropu pomoci kovovych kuzelovitych hmozdinek.... Tak co, vydrzi to aspon tri roky?????
Všecko vydrží a možná že Vás to tak vytočí, že to budete mít ZADARMO !!!
Zapsal: Přemek Podlaha, 20:51:42 26.02.2002
Tomovi
Při sklonu 20 stupňů by to vydržet mělo.Já jsem dřevotřísku ,kterou jsem měl původně ve stropě a na 60stupňovým sklonu,dal na stupy a do sklonu cca 25 stupňů a zatím to drží. A je to tak 4 roky.
Při menším sklonu je vektor síly,který působí na dřevotřísku rozložený ne do "pilin",ale do lisovaných ploch spojených pryskyřicí(což je vrstva na obou stranách cca 2-3 mm),které mají pevnost podstatně vyšší.
Proč dřevotřísky (!?), když existují OSB desky ! Jsou to příbuzný dřevotřísek - nejsou z pilin, ale z větších dřevěných odštěpků. Jsou cenově dostupný a rozhodně pevnější !!!
Zapsal: pepa, 15:43:39 27.02.2002
Tak to sem si oddych...
No, uz sem se lek, ze drevotrisku za 1200 Kc muzu vzit a vyhodit. I s vyvrtanyma dirama a napraskanyma buldokama. Dik vsem za rady a tipy. Co treba tipy na vyrobu chytu... Pro Kašpina: To s vektorem sily bylo dobry, takhle sem o tom nikdy nepremejslel (a to sem na CVUT).
Jo jo.Každýho to možná potkalo.Lýzt se chce, možná že i síla na bouldrovce trošku vyvznikla a chyty už nejsou to co bývalo.Možná by to chtělo jiný tvary,menší,zaoblenější... .Jenomže poslední chechtáky se daly děckám na plínky a na sunar.A tu zašitou bankovku v hodnotě 500 kč na cestu do Adlitzgrabenu,tak tu se teda rodině rozhodně přiznávat nechce.Takže po chvilce přemejšlení,kde vzít penízky a nekrást,se vezme odpad z překližky ,kterej kdysi vybyl při stavbě bouldrovky.
Pomocí pilky se vyřízne potřebný tvar a hrany se na brusce zaoblí.Jo to je výhoda mít kámoše,kterej má doma brusku.Pomocí brusky se dá vykouzlit jakýkoliv tvar a sklon hrany.
No a když se tloušťka chyt zdá být přiliš velkou,tak se vezme dlátko a kladívko a opatrným rozlepováním překližky se získá chyt o potřebné tloušťce.A opět se zabrousí a zaoblí.
Tyhle chyty mají kromě toho ,že jsou takřka zadarmiko,velké výhody.Může si je tvůrce udělat dle vlastních představ a potřeb. Jsou festovný,neničí se na nich bříška prstů a dají se udělat pekelně hladký.Jo a Tome, co je to za tu organizaci ČVUT? Nějaký červený kříž,armáda spásy,potápěči...?!? Checht...
No, o tech chytech budu premejslet. Zni to jednoduse a lakave. Za zkousku nic nedam. I kdyz uz mam doma chyty od Dendyho :-) ..... To s tou organizaci - byl si fakt blizko. Jen misto potapeni mame paragliding. Neco jako medina (2. LF) na UK. A ty plínky sou dneska pekne drahy .....
Nenapsal jsem to úplně správně - ty palety jsou ze dřeva, prkýnka přitlučený k latím. Jen rozměr odpovídá sádrokartonovým deskám, který se na těch paletách přepravujou(asi 1,6 na 2,2 m). Úplně zadarmiko to nebude, je potřeba se poptat ve stavebninách...Tím sololitem to potlučeš a chyty našroubuješ tam, kde je prkno - je jasný, že jenom v sololitu by nedržely ! Pepíno
Zapsal: viz Pepíno, 11:42:51 28.02.2002
Sádrokartonová paleta
Sádrokartonová paleta má rozměr 1,20 x 2,0 ž 3,0 metry. Standardem je ta dvoumetrová. Když si někdo přijedete do Plzně, dám Vám jich kolik chcete. Nebo zařídím vyzvednutí z Prahy, Varů, Chebu, Liberce, Brna, Přerova, Čáslavi, C. Budějovic, Tábora.
delam chyty nasledovne: koupis laminovaci pryskyrici CHS-Polyester (drogerie, cca 200,-/kg) a sadru. sezenes si pisek, presijes na drobno (cajove, nebo jine jemne sitko). Namichas polyester dle navodu. pridas sadru - hustota asi jako smetana. smichas s piskem asi 1:7 objemove. doporucuju nedriv pridavat pisek do pixly s lepidlem a michat klackem, potom to cely vpravit do hromadky pisku a rucickama patlame patlame. kdyz uz z toho jdou delat babovicky, tak si upatlas chytu, kolik chces (nejlip na prkynku s folii - to ocenis, az ti to ztvrdne). za par hodin (podle teploty) je to zdanlive tvrdy. nenech se zmats a pockej radsi par dni (asi tak 7 nebo jeden tejden), protoze uvnitr jeste bejva nevytvrdly lepidlo. Poto uz jenom vemes vrtacku (doporucuju nejakou s SDS) a desitku vrtak do zdi a prozenes s tim tu babovicku skrz naskrz (nejlepe v miste, kde by se ti libila dira pro sroub). pak dvacitkou vyvrtas osazeni pro podlozku (dost hluboky na hlavu sroubu), cely to ojedes smirglem nebo bruskou od ostrych hranek apod., popr si doladis tvar. kdyz te chces mit jo super, tak desitky podlozky tam muzes vlepit treba zbytkem smesi pri pristim tvoreni. a kdyz si do lepidla vmichas trochu barvy (ne moc,tak 1%, nemuselo by to ztvrdnout), tak to muzes mit i barevny. mame tehle chytu na stene asi tak 60 a drzej stejne jako originaly. jo a nekupujte misto polyesteru epoxyd (zkousel jsem 1200 a spatne to ve smesi s malo lepidlem a hodne plnivem tvrdne).
a kdo bydlite v panelaku, bezte to radsi patlat nekam za mesto - polester malinkko smrdi :-D. a kdyz pred patlanim namazete rucicky indulonou, pujdou vam potom snaz umejt. dilu zdar
Zapsal: MAC, 18:59:21 02.03.2002
Dik, dik, dik
Vsem tady moc dik, protoze sem o vikendu doma dostavel stenku. Svoji vlastni boulder stenku. Meri 2x3 metry, ale mam z ni moc velkou radost. Chyty od Dendyho. Je to fakt ale pohoda. Diky MACu, chyty zkusim. Mit svoje vlastni tvary - to asi stoji za to. Takze naposledy DIK vsem.
Čauky.Ten Tvůj návod se mi moc líbí.Určitě to zkusím.Mohl bys mi říct,kolik přibližně chytů se dá vytvořit z "jedný dávky". Myslím menší chyty na boulder,žádný stropáky.Dík
no, ja si micham cca 0,2kg lepidla na jednu davku (kdyz das vic, tak to nemusis stihnout namichat a uplacat). Z toho udelas asi tak 10 chytu (cca 7cm prumer, 3 cm vysky). Ale to je orientacni, zalezi na tom, jakej se ti povede pisek a jak moc ho vpravis do lepidla. Radsi presejvej vic najemno, jinak je to ostry. Jo a touhle smesi (ale ridsi) jdou slepovat praskly chyty z plastbetonu. Zkousel jsem cpat tuhle smes do sadrovy formy vymazany silikonem a jde to taky.
Zapsal: , 07:12:46 05.03.2002
Trojkarovi
Gde se pise s K (KDE) cao...
Zapsal: , 09:19:04 05.03.2002
dotaz
neni tu jeste nejakej kapanek podrobnejsi navod
o uchyceni tech desek-ve vetsich vyskach?Dik
K těm buldokům většinou je seženeš ve větších obchodech se spojovacími materialy řekni že chceš buldoky /narážecí matice/.
PS:ale dávej pozor ať ti nedaj prasklí počítaj je na váhu.
Dobrý je taky si nechat udělat železnou kostru od nějákého zámečníka kterej ti to udělá jako melouch jak chceš ty a desky si už na to přiděláš sám ale je lepší když si to ke stěně tu železnou kostru přiděláš sám, dej tam větší počet
hmožděnek pro jistotu.
Hele když máte slabou dřevotřísku Tak stačí porazit ňáký smrček udělat trámky a podbít ji. Stačí slabý trámky. A udělejte z těch trámků jakoby sít. A teď mě napadlo, když porazíte místo smrčku ňáký most nebo lampu, tak si to podbijte železem. Hej??
Zdarec,
chtěl bych si udělat nějakou menší bouldrovku, ale nevím jestli mám dělat kostru ze dřeva, nebo z železa. A jak se na železo přidělá překližka???
dík
Zapsal: arki, 15:47:33 19.08.2006
překližka na železo
Zkus třeba vratový šrouby (plochá kulatá hlava, pod ní čtyřhran na zakousnutí a na konci M závit.
Zapsal: martan, 14:09:13 20.01.2009
článek
Ahoj,
na začátku je zmínka o nějakém dobrém článku předpokládam o stavbě hor.stěny a nemužu ho najít mohl by mi někdo napsat odkaz velmi děkuji
Všecko jsem tu přelouskal a nakonec jsem postavil v garáži asi 30m2 stěny včetně stropu a chytů za cca. 10.000,-Kč. Sehnal jsem nějaký trámy a prkna z bouračky starých kasáren, z trámů jsem udělal nosnou konstrukci, desky jsem dělal z prken, příčně jsem je na vruty vyztužil dalším prknem a z lezené strany jsem je olaminoval ječdnou vrstvou skelné tkaniny prosysené polyesterem. Navrch jsem naházel jemný písek, tím jsem získal třecí plochu. Polyester jsem probarvil dle fantazie.
A nakonec chyty - opět polyester, na jednu várku asi 1kg, urychlovač, zahustit jemně mletým křemíkem (aerosil - asi 0,5litru) až je z toho tmel co drží tvar, a pak přidat cca 2-3kg jemného písku (křemičitého) - to vysypu na rovnou desku, má to konzistenci těsta na knedlíky a dle vlastní fantazie plácám chyty. Důležitý je počítat s tím kam budu vrtat díru a tam si dát předem podložku, bez ní by se mohl chyt při dotahování rozlomit.Díru je třeba vrtat rovně, stejně tak díry do desky pro buldoky. Dodatečná nerovinnost může taky způsobit rozlomení chytu.
Poslední rada na závěr - každou narážecí matici si po zatlučení do desky šroubem zkontrolujte dřív, než tu desku naroubujete na zeď. Pak už se vám to nebude chtít rozebírat....a škoda každé díry bez závitu:)
Fotky mám na facebooku, kdyby měl někdo zájem.
Mám dobrou zkušenost s vrtáním pískovcových šutrů z řeky. Obyčejná vrtačka s příklepem, ve stojanu. Vidiový vrták často chlaďte vodou. Zadní strana šutru musí být co nejrovnější, aby pěkně doléhala na stěnu. Zepředu na vrtání vyberte opět nejlépe plošku, aby vám hlava šroubu seděla ponejlépe celá. Výběrem šutrů si můžete hodně ulehčit práci. Vzniklé chyty jsou překvapivé, originální a povětšinou málo positivní (kapsy se hledají těžko). Na začátek zkuste pár kusů ať víte jaké kameny hledat. Občas se podaří trefit tvrdého jedince, nerozlišitelného okem od měkkého, takový vyřeďte a nenechte si rozhodit sandál. Ať to vrtá :-)
S buldokama je prdel. Dají se koupit v cenovém rozmezí 1-7kč, což při tisíci kusech už dělá docela dost! Radím velkoobchody jako ferona. Navíc existují dva typy. Jeden je narážecí (má několik trnů, kterými v materiálu drží). Druhý má několik otvůrků a uchycuje se pomocí malých vrutů. Výhody a nevýhody jsou u obou. Narážecí se rychle montuje (úderem kladiva) ale při neopatrné manipulaci jej můžete šroubem vyrazit z díry pryč(hlavně u měkčích materiálů) a pokud nemáte ke stěně přístup zezadu, je tato díra navždy slepá. Druhý typ buldoku budete déle osazovat(a potřebujete vruty) ale zase budou opravdu držet...
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lezec.cz
Před pár dny Ležec teoretik zveřejnil svůj úspěšný a přínosný článek o stavbě boulderové stěny.
Tak a konečně jsou tady celkové výsledky ze Sauna Opene 2002, které mi poslal Vlasta již minulý týden a dokonce i nějaké fotky.
...největší zážitek z lezení je, když jste nahoře a vidíte něco co odjinud není vidět a tak kdo nevyleze, ten také neuvidí.
GPS a mapové aplikace