 V polovině března se mi zdála být zima už dost dlouhá a tak jsem se rozhodla, že si ji trochu zkrátím výletem s kamarády do Calanques. Volba oblasti se ukázala být jako velmi dobrá, neboť zatímco vytrvalý déšť způsoboval záplavy v severní Francii, u Marseille bylo nádherně teplo a slunečno. Jeden den dokonce teplota vystoupila ke 28 stupňům celsia a tak jsme toho využili a vyměnili lezení na pár hodin za osvěžující plavání v průzračných vodách Středozemního moře.
Zájezd jsme pojali odpočinkově a místo dobývání těžkých cest jsme se věnovali spíše poznávání oblasti a okolních krás marseillského pobřeží. A tak vám, kteří nepátráte po pokořených číslicích francouzské klasifikace, nabízím popis Calanques, které jistě stojí za to navštívit.
[přeloženo z francouzských webů a doplněno o osobní zkušenosti]
Les Calanques ( Kalánky ) v sedmdesátých letech byly významnou lezeckou oblastí. Světoví lezci jako Gaston Rebuffat či George Livanos zde trénovali v zimě před významnými výstupy v Alpách. Nyní již Calanques mají zřejmě velkou slávu za sebou. Ve Francii jsou objevovány stále nové a nové skalní oblasti, v jejichž stínu věhlas Calanques pomalu zaniká.
Masiv Calanques se nalézá na malém kousku marseillského pobřeží uchráněným před urbanistickou zástavbou. Je tvořen pohořím s nejvyšší horou (Mont Puget) 584 m klesající strmě ke Středozemnímu moři a zářící bílými roztroušenými stěnami, které vytváří rozeklané zákruty s jeskyněmi a přírodními plážemi.To vše jen pár kilometrů od rušného města Marseille.
Calanques se řadí svou 15 km délkou a 5 km šířkou k nejmohutnějším lezeckým terénům Francie. Celý masiv nabízí více než 100 km cest různých obtížností. Klima je také pozoruhodné. Prší zde vůbec nejméně z celé Francie (jen 50 dešťových dní v roce) a deštivo je více na podzim. Na zdejším odlišném klimatu se podílí zejména Mistral, nepravidelný severní vítr, který v zimě může být nejen silný ale i studený. V létě s sebou přináší horko, které odradí i ty největší teplomily.
Tipy:
Bivakování je zakázáno dokonce i bez stanu, ale v zimních měsících se zdá být tolerováno. Po celou dobu jsme stavěli stany a nesetkali jsme se s problémy.
Pro většinu francouzských oblastí platí nenechávat naprosto žádné věci v autě. I přesto, že jsme žádné negativní skutečnosti nezaznamenali, raději případné nenechavce nepokoušejte a berte si cennosti s sebou. Na francouzských serverech dokonce nabádají k užívání výhradně hlídaných parkovišť případně k zaparkování auta ve městě a užití městské hromadné dopravy k cestě do oblasti.
Vezměte si dostatek vody. Je zapotřebí dovést vodu již z města! Voda ve studnách malých pobřežních vesniček (např. v Morgiou) vám svou mírně slanou chutí jasně připomína přítomnost moře.
Popis a charakteristika jednotlivých sektorů:
Některé ze stěn se nacházejí přímo nad mořem.Často mají bizarní tvary a uchovaný divoký ráz. Je zde mnoho odlišných sektorů, některé z nich připomínají spíše lehký horský lezecký terén a nabízí i více délkové cesty a nezřídka i s obtížným přístupem a relativně starým a nepříliš důvěryhodným zajištěním.
Cassis je nejkrásnější místo Kalánek. To se samozřejmě odráží i v počtu turistů, kteří jej každoročně navštíví.
Sormiou nabízí dobře odjištěné lezeni přímo nad morem.
Grande Candelle, díky své horší dostupnosti je často bez lezců a také nabízí pěkné cesty. Není však (až na některé sektory) nejpříhodnější cílem pro sportovní lezení. Naproti tomu ale nabízí nádherné klima a dobrodružné lezení v divoké přírodě.
"A" počet cest pod 20.
"B" počet cest mezi 20 a 40.
"C" počet cest nad 40.
Typ cest:
"přev" : převislé -
"kol" : kolmé a položené.
"mp" : více délkové < 4 délky
"MP" : více délkové < 4 délky
"adv" : divočinka
| Sektor | Podsektor | | Směr | typ | Obtížnost | Charakteristika
|
|---|
| Morgiou | Abri côtier | A | JZ | kolmice | 3 až 7a+ | Skutečně příjemný sektor v blízkosti port de Morgiou
| | Luminy | Aiguille Sugiton | B | JZ | kolmice/mp | 4b až 7a | Několik nádherných linií a stěna s krásným vzhledem na moře
| | Luminy | Aiguille Sugiton | A | JV | kolmice/mp | 3 až 7a | Převážně položené - brzy ve stínu
| | Sormiou | Apanaou | A | JZ | kolmice | 3 až 5c | Malý sektor k dosažení od- Tiragne asi 5min
| | Goudes | Alpinodrome | A | V | kolmice/převislá | 5c až 7b | Sektor se staršími cestami a možnostmi traverzů
| | Sormiou | Arche perdue | A | SZ | kolmice | 4 až 6c | Příjemný přístup, cesty brzy ve stínu
| | Morgiou | Baumettes | A | JZ | kolmice | 4 až 7a+ | Lehká oblast s cestami od 5b-5c
| | Goudes | Bonne mere | A | JZ | mp | 5a až 7a+ | Několik zajímavých dlouhých cest
| | Sormiou | La bougie | B | J | kolmice/mp | 5b až 7c | Velká stěna s výhledem na moře ne příliš frekventovaný sektor
| | Morgiou | Cabanons | B | V | kolmice/převislá | 5b až 8a+ | Stěna ve stínu spíše pro silné lezce
| | Morgiou | Cancéou | A | Z | kolmice/MP | 5 až 6b | Skvělé nezapomenutelné cesty
| | Luminy | Candelle | A | J | kolmice/MP/adv | 4 až 7b+ | Několik zajímavých cest chráněných před mistralem
| | Gardiole | Castelvieil | A | JZ | kolmice/MP/adv | 5 až 6c | Divoký a dobrodružný sektor
| | Luminy | Cathédrale | A | J | kolmice | 6a až 8a | Velkolepé linie 40m , kde je dobře být v dobré mentální kondici
| | Sormiou | Col de Sormiou | A | S a J | kolmice | 3 až 5c | Krátký přístup 10 sec
| | Sormiou | Colline de Lun | C | Z a J | kolmice/převislá | 4 až 7c+ | Přírodně divoké s množstvím zajímavých cest částečně chráněných před mistralem
| | Luminy | Concave | A | Z | kolmice/převislá/MP/adv | 4 až 7b+ | Nádherné linie na kameny, mýtické cesty
| | Sormiou | Conglue | A | JZ | kolmice/mp | 4 až 5c | Sektor nabízející více délkové cesty (2délky)
| | Morgiou | Cret St Michel | B | Z a JZ | kolmice/MP | 4 až 7c | Pěkné délky chráněné před Mistrálem
| | Gardiole | Devenson | A | J | kolmice/MP/adv | 5 až 6b | Magické místo pro amatéry s několika atletickými cestami
| | Sormiou | Diedre Guem | A | JV | kolmice/mp | 3 až 4 | Stěny ideální pro soft-movery
| | Gardiole | Eissadon | A | JZ | kolmice/MP | 4 až 6b | Super rozvržené místo daleko od civilizace
| | Gardiole | Eissadon | A | J | kolmice/MP/adv | 4 až 6a | Příjemný lehčí sektor
| | Gardiole | En Vau | C | všechno | kolmice/MP/mp | 3 až 7b | Magické místo občas olezené chyty
| | Goudes | Face sud | B | J | kolmice/mp | 4 až 6c | Několik stěn směrujících k moři chráněných před Mistrálem
| | Goudes | Escalier géant | B | JVE a JZ | kolmice | 4 až 7a+ | Sympatické skály lehké cesty jsou ojeté
| | Marseilleveyre | Fontaine d'ivoire | B | SV | kolmice/převislá | 6b až 7c+ | Ne příliš hezké skály přesto několik pěkných cest
| | Goudes | Grotte de l'ermite | A | JZ | převislá | 6a+ až 8b+ | Opravdu hezké cesty vyhrazené převážně silným lezcům
| | Goudes | Grotte de l'ermite | A | SZ | kolmice/mp | 4c až 8a+ | Divoké skaly s nevelkým počtem cest
| | Luminy | Grotte de l'ours | B | JV | kolmice/převislá | 6a až 8c | Osm céčka a mnohé jiné pěkné cesty
| | Sormiou | Ilette | A | JV | kolmice/převislá | 5b až 7b | Malý sektor v borovicovém lesíku kousek od moře
| | Goudes | Lapinodrome | A | JV | kolmice | 4 až 6b | Malý sektor ne příliš frekventovaný
| | Sormiou | Leche cu | A | JV | kolmice/převislá | 6c až 8a | Nový sektor ne ještě všechny cesty jsou očištěny
| | Sormiou | Lou spigaou | A | V | kolmice | 4 až 6b+ | Malý sektor bez ochrany stínu
| | Sormiou | Lui d'Ai | A | JV | kolmice/mp | 4 až 7a+ | Super pár metrů od moře, chráněné před větrem
| | Marseilleveyre | Massilia | B | SZ | kolmice | 4 až 6b | Pěkné lehké cesty výhled na Marseille
| | Marseilleveyre | Metalika et Mitre | A | Z | kolmice | 5c+ až 7b | Není známo
| | Sormiou | Momie | B | V | kolmice/MP | 5a až 7b | Stín velkou část dne pár zajímavých linií
| | Luminy | Oasis | A | JZ | převislá | 6b až 8a+ | Pár nových těžkých cest
| | Oule | Oule | A | J | kolmice/MP/adv | 5c až 6c | Pěkné cesty jsou ojeté
| | Marseilleveyre | Paragon | A | Z a SZ | kolmice | 4 až 7b | Pár zajímavých cest
| | Marseilleveyre | Palais d'été | A | SZ | kolmice/převislá | 6b až 7c+ | Super kolmé i převislé
| | Goudes | Paroi jaune | A | JZ | kolmice | 6a+ až 7c | Vertikální stěny a cesty délky až 35 m
| | Luminy | Paroi des toits | C | JZ | kolmice/převislá | 5c až 8b | Skvělé cesty několik nových
| | Marseilleveyre | Pastré | C | SZ | kolmice | 4 až 7a | Skaly s panoramatickým výhledem na městečko
| | Luminy | Pierres tombées | B | J | kolmice/mp | 5b až 7c | Krásné okolí chráněné před větrem v blízkosti moře
| | Sormiou | Pinede | A | Z | kolmice | 4 až 6c | Malý sektor
| | Gardiole | Port Miou | A | JZ | kolmice | 5b až 7a | Malý sektor bez ochrany před Sluncem
| | Morgiou | Radeau | A | J | kolmice | 5a až 6c+ | Mikro sektor s pěkným prostředím
| | Marseilleveyre | Ragga wall | A | Z | kolmice | 5c až 7a+ | Pár krásných cest v této malé oblasti část dne je ve stínu
| | Morgiou | Falaise du renard | A | V | kolmice/mp | 5a až 6c | Viditelný markantní zářez s 3 zajímavými cestami
| | Marseilleveyre | Roy d'espagne | C | Z | kolmice | 3 až 8a | Skála s mnoha cestami a blízkostí osídlení
| | Sormiou | Rumpe cuou | A | JZ | kolmice/mp | 3 až 6a | Příjemné cesty pro start ve velkých stěnách
| | Luminy | JVcle candelle | C | JJZ | všechno | 4 až 7c+ | Dlouhé cesty zleva chráněné před Mistrálem
| | JVrmiou | Tete melette | A | J | kolmice/mp | 5c až 6b | Malý sektor s 2-3 délkovými cestami a nějaké bouldery na tření
| | Marseilleveyre | Tete mounine | A | JV | kolmice/MP/adv | 5b až 6b | Několik cest chráněno stromy - chráněno před větrem
| | Sormiou | Tiragne | C | JZ a J | kolmice/mp | 4 až 7b+ | Krásná oblast mnoho cest
| | Morgiou | Triperie | B | Z | kolmice/převislá/mp | 6a až 8b | Pár krásných cest v oblasti- přístup slaněním, morálová
| | Luminy | Virage | B | J | kolmice/převislá | 5c+ až 8a | Kolmé i převislé stěny možnost dlouhých traversů
|
| Jana Lukášová [úpravy] | 09:34 06.04.2001 |
| Takhle by, podle mne, měl vypadat report. Dávám 5 hvězdiček. |
| Zapsal: Azbest, 12:40:52 06.04.2001 |
| Reportik je fakt vybornej, ale jen by mne zajimalo, kolik takova cesta do Calanques stoji. Jo Francie je prece jen Francie,takze se to asi kapku prodrazi ne? Dikes za odpoved jinak taky davam pet hvezdicek. |
| Zapsal: Zelenac, 10:36:29 12.04.2001 |
| cena dost zavisi na tom jak ziznive je auto a kolik clenu posadky se sklada na benzin, ale v zasade pri naplneni auta by se cena za jednoho nemela presplhat pres dav tisice a to se vsemi dalnicnimi poplatky. |
| Zapsal: JirkaS, 13:19:33 29.06.2001 |
| Predm se omlouvam za chybejici hackocarky. Kalanky jsou bezva a nadherny to se musi nechat. V lete ovsem maji jednu velkou nevyhodu a to hrozici pozary kvuli kterym se velka cast uzemi uzavira popripade se pristup omezuje, coz znamena az moc velke problemy pro lezce, co zde chteji travit delsi dobu. |
| Zapsal: Michal, 13:36:35 28.10.2002 |
| Zapsal: Ondra, 15:46:02 28.10.2002 |
| Kalánky jsou parádní, v létě ale mají dvě výrazné nevýhody-lézt se dá jen na návětrné straně, jinak na stěnách schovaných před vánky (i vichry-slavný MISTRÁL) z moře se lézt kvůli vedru nedá, no, a pro mě největší nepříjemnost-děsné davy turistů a to i mimo sezónu v září či červnu. Uvítal bych popis fotek, zvláště stěna na té poslední, tu neznám, v save as.. se mi objevilo PAROITS, to je v které části? |
| Zapsal: honza, 09:58:26 29.10.2002 |
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