Lezec - Zpravodaj

Vynechal při tom prvních cca 5 metrů lehčího lezení, které byly po deštích mokré. Odhadl její obtížnost na 5.14d. Zjistil, že pro přelezení břitvových chytů dává smysl právě noční lezení, kdy je přijatelnější teplota.

Pak v noci pokračoval v nácviku 16. délky, kde se mu takřka podařilo top rope přelézt variantu Loop a pokračoval do délky 17. Myslí si, že celý úsek 16. délky bude 5.14c a že to půjde.

Potom do rána na včerejšek odpočívali na portaledge uprostřed stěny a pak chtěl do noci a během dneška pracovat na dalších 4 délkách (asi 5.13c-5.13d) k Wino Tower. A poté chtěl dolézt na vrchol a dokončit tak volně/technicky (částečně hákovaný) průstup stěnou od země na vršek.

Uvedl to ve ve vyjádření zveřejněném na Instagramu dnes ráno jeho sponzorem Black Diamond:

Update: Ondra Dials in Pitch 15 (5.14d) of the Dawn Wall⠀ ⠀ “After the period of rain and two days of rest, I went onto the wall with Pavel for three days. The plan was to send pitch 15 [5.14d] and 16 [5.14a] the first night. Hauling took us a while, so we got to our basecamp under the crux pitches in the dark. But it did not matter really. It was finally cold enough for pitch 15!⠀ ⠀ “Unfortunately the very beginning of the pitch was still wet after the big rain, so I had to skip the first 5 meters, which are not very difficult. Finally, on my fourth go I could send this ‘shortened’ pitch 15. Super excited about it! I worked hard on pitch 16 later that night. I got pretty close, trying it via the ‘Loop Pitch’ and tried to continue all the way into pitch 17 (5.14a), which makes sense to me. It is much harder—the whole pitch could be around 5.14c—but I think it is worth it. But let's see what I will think on the push;-)⠀ ⠀ Right now, we are resting on the portaledge this morning. I would like to work on the 4 pitches (around 5.13c-5.13d) to the Wino Tower tonight and tomorrow. Then we will go to the summit and complete our ground-up free/aid ascent. Cool style in my opinion to justify the use of fixed ropes. ⠀ ⠀ “Life on the portaledge is just great. We’ve just had oatmeal for breakfast, and it is pleasant temperature to hang around in the sun and we even have solar panels to charge our phones. Life is pretty sweet up here. Even using Wag bags when necessary is not as bad as I thought.”⠀ ⠀ –BD Ambassador @Adam.Ondra, November 2, 2016.⠀ ⠀ Stay tuned for more exclusive coverage of Ondra’s Yosemite trip. #liveclimbrepeat Photo: @pavelblazek ⠀

A photo posted by @blackdiamond on Nov 2, 2016 at 10:16pm PDT

O dílčím úspěchu v 15. délce mluví Adam také v tomto videu, které zveřejnil včera na svém na Instagramu:

The start of pitch 15 (second traverse pitch 5.14c) was wet, so I started without these first five meters and "sent" the pitch on my 4th go at 11 PM. It turns out that only night climbing makes sense on these razorblades. @blackdiamond #Montura @mytendon @lasportivagram #Yosemite #dawnwall #elcapitan

A video posted by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on Nov 2, 2016 at 1:50am PDT

Tábor ve stěně El Capa v příspěvku Adamova spolulezce Pavla Blažka, který upřesnil, že plán bude začít lézt kolem půlnoci s cílem dosáhnut vršku do 13.00. A pak to celé zafixovat lany od vrcholu do základního tábora a další noc strávit na zemi v Campu 4:

About 1:45 AM last night. That's when we went to bed. It will be a bit different story tonight. The plan is to start climbing about midnight hopefully make it to the top of ElCap by 1 PM tomorrow. Than fix the ropes from the top to BC and get all the way down. Night in Camp 4. . @adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on Nov 2, 2016 at 4:57pm PDT

Příspěvek Pavka Blažka ze snídaně s Adamem:

Breakfast by Adam Ondra! . Besides beeing (in my opinion 😀) pretty good climber Adam is also great cook! So from our first trip (Flatanger, Norway in May of this year) we made a deal. He is cooking I do the rest. It works great! Of course the climbing is on him. I just hold the other end of the rope 😀 . We had a really good sleep in BC and are enjoing the morning sun now! It is much better up here than in Camp 4. Sunny, warm, dry and the view I guess doesn't need any explanation. It's just spectacular! . And we even hauled up a solar panel and an external batery (Elon Musk @elonmusk would be proud of us I guess - sorry 🙂 I'm big fan of that guy!) so we can recharge our phones and chat with our folks, girlfriends... I just can't think of better place to be right now! . Adam will post what is the plan for today so check out his profile . @adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on Nov 2, 2016 at 10:33am PDT

Adam Ondra: Dawn Wall - noční pokrok v 15. délce