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Adam Ondra: onsight Just Do It 8c+ ve Smith Rock

Adam Ondra si zapsal onsight cesty Just Do It za 8c+ ve Smith Rock v Oregonu. Na Instagramu k tomu píše, že tuto svého času nejtěžší cestu Ameriky z roku 1989 chtěl přelézt o té doby, co se o ní poprvé dozvěděl, když mu bylo 8 let.

Adam šel na onsight pokus po neúspěchu v cestě To Bolt or Not To Be" 8b+, což mu nedodávalo příliš sebedůvěry. Ale po jednom restdayi se cítil dobře i po psychické stránce a šel do toho:

View this post on Instagram

Just Do It 8c+ was just an incredible experience. I wanted to this route just so much since I first read the name of the route and its history (being 8 years old). Then I was finally at Smith, not really sure if I was ready for it or not. Failure on my onsight try on "To Bolt or Not To Be" 8b+ did not give me much confidence either. But after taking a restday, I felt good and I was psyched. The only concern was if the weather was suitable. It was cold (5 °C) and really windy. But I made a good warm up on the other side of the crag at Aggro Gully, climbing Aggro Monkey 8a and Bad Man 8b+ onsight and I moved up to the Monkey Face, where the route "Just Do It" is located. It was freaking windy, but I was hoping that down at the base it would be less windy than up in the pass from where it is really nice to check the route. I was trying to convince myself by seeing the no quickdraws moving in the lower bit (well, those quickdraws are in vertical wall so it is clear they were not moving so much). At base it was too obvious that it was freaking windy. But I just set off. Friction felt great, I felt strong but this relentless wind did not want stop. In every single restpoint I was trying to warm up my fingers, but my success was limited.  Getting higher and higher, the pressure grew, but on the very top it got eventually that hard that I could completely forget about everything, even the cold and I somehow made it to the top at the absolute limit. There was a nice crowd including Alan Watts who bolted this beauty back in 1989. Thanks for that and thanks for the encouragement. Stay tuned for the video. @blackdiamond @montura_official @lasportivagram @mytendon  Pic by @bernardo_gimenez

A post shared by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on







Adamův zápis cesty Just Do It v databázi cest na Lezci:

Just Do It 5.14c

sth   [úpravy] 07:02 13.11.2018Tisk 

Reklama:


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