Lezec - Zpravodaj

"Většinu z nich jsem dal nebo vylezl top rope nebo při nejmenším aspoň zkrokoval klíčové sekvence," informoval Adam na Instagramu.

Jak píše jeho spolulezec Pavel Blažek, Dawn Wall je neustálé téma jejich rozhovorů i během restdaye a těší se znovu do stěny.

“Zdá se, že potřebuji ještě trochu zapracovat na dálkách 10, 12 a 13 (5.13b) a pak délkách 1-6 (pouze v rozmezí 5.12b až 5.13c) a budu připraven jít na ostrý pokus. Nemůžu se dočkat!!!” upřesnil Adam ve vyjádření, které před chvílí publikoval na Instagramu jeho sponzor Black Diamond.

Update: Two Busy Days for Ondra on the Dawn Wall⠀ ⠀ “We had two busy days on the wall, but extremely important, motivating ones! At first, I tried pitch 14 [5.14d], where I still had no idea what to do on the last boulder problem. After a little session, I could finally do the moves and soon after I gave it a go, but realized that my beta for the intro-moves on the last boulder problem didn’t work. It took me a lot of time, skin, frustration and swearing to finally find a satisfying sequence, but I was exhausted and my skin thrashed. I still gave it another go that night, slipped on the first boulder problem, but then continued to the anchor, which gave me a lot of confidence that next time it should work out.⠀ ⠀ “The second day, I was incredibly lucky to get an overcast day, so I could make a lot of work. At first, we took some pics with Heinz Zak on pitch 14, then went down and sent pitch 8 (5.13d) and toproped pitch 7 (5.14a). After lunch, I went for pitch 11 (5.13c) and linked the whole crux sequence, then linked the whole crux on pitch 12 (5.14b). Then we went down for a toprope session on pitch 10 (5.14a), which is always desperately wet in the dark, but I still made it with one hang on toprope. To finish the day, I just rechecked the moves on pitch 9 (5.13c).⠀ ⠀ “It seems like I need to work a bit more on pitches 10, 12 and 13 (5.13b) and then pitches 1-6 (only 5.12b to 5.13c range) and I will be ready to go for the push. Can't wait!!!”⠀ ⠀ –BD Ambassador @Adam.Ondra, November 7, 2016.⠀ ⠀ #liveclimbrepeat Photo: @pavelblazek ⠀

A photo posted by Black Diamond Equipment (@blackdiamond) on Nov 7, 2016 at 9:56pm PST

Funny... We have a rest day (drove to the Glacier Point) but still talk about the Dawn Wall. Even for me - considering myself non-climber compare to Adam - the place starts to feel like home and I'm looking forward to get back up on the wall. And it sure ain't like "walking in the park" for me! 😀 Some of the mornings I feel like being beat up in boxing match the night before 😀 . @adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on Nov 7, 2016 at 4:38pm PST

Overcast day yesterday, so I got to work on the pitches a lot! Pitches 7 - 12 (the hardest pitches of the lower part) feel pretty wired, most of them got sent or toproped, or at least the crux sequences linked. Photo by @pavelblazek @mytendon @blackdiamond #Montura @lasportivagram #elcapitan #Yosemite #Dawnwall

A photo posted by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on Nov 7, 2016 at 11:57am PST

Anybody wants to be a rockclimber? 😀 . Adam is making very intresting progress on the lower pitches. Even sending some - I'll let him to talk about those. The cool temperatures allows us to climb all day! . "The final push" phrase is becoming to be heard quite often around here 😀 . @adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on Nov 6, 2016 at 1:19pm PST

Pitch #12 - Quite a run out for my taste but I've given up to say anything 😀 . @adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on Nov 6, 2016 at 3:31pm PST

Adam Ondra v Dawn Wall: pokrok ve spodních těžkých délkách