Brnnsk dvojice Pavel "Baa" Vrtk a Jan "Straes" Straka opt spojila sly a vylezla dal pecku - prvovstup v severovchodn stn Les Droites.
Cestu vylezli alpskm stylem bhem ty dn 9.-12.3.2014, m kolem 1200 lezeckch metr a obte dosahuj M7+, s jednou dlkou za A2. Dvojice se nechala slyet, e technicky se jedn o podobn tk lezen jako v severnm kuloru Direct na Dru (kter pelezli loni M8/OS), ale poet obtnch dlek a celkov nronost je daleko vt.
Legenda k topu:
1. V ostruha (srpen 1967) - 5c A1, 900 m
2. Lagarde Direct - IV 4+. 800 m - klasick zimn cesta, 80/85
3. Messnerv pil (ervenec 1969) - V 6. 900 m
4. caille pique (Patrick Pessi, Sbastien Ratel a Rmy Sfilio, nor 2011) - M6
5. Lagarde Couloir (ervenec 1930) - IV 3. 1000 m - sklon do 65
6. Czech Gully (ervenec 1977) - V 5+. 900 m - 65/90
7. Tournier Spur (1937, 1963 - prvn zimn, 1972 - Jaeger, prvn solo) - V 4+, 5c. 1000 m
8. Direct start Tournier Spur (ervenec 1970) - nstup v nejnim bodu Tournier Spur, lezen od 3c do 5c
9. Le vol du dragon (P. Vrtk, J. Straka, bezen 2014) - M7+/A2
Baca, your new route is a great achievement, congratulations. I am the person who waved to you in the morning of 9th of March - I was climbing above you on the initial section of Tournier Spur. I also saw somebody (you?) trying the first pitches of your new route in the evening on the 8th of March, so perhaps the news on the ascent needs a bit more detail ? ;)
Waldorf, you're right, that's bullshit. We did a lot on 8th. Traveled from Brno (1200km), packed our stuff on overcrowded parking, used lift to get to Grandes Montets, moved to the base of the Les Droites, created a bivy spot, and put the rope in the first M4 pitch. We should consider that as a part of approach job. What about you ? Did you managed to get to the top and be in a bar by six ?
Baca, the news says the route was climbed 9-12th March. I saw somebody climb on it on the 8th - hence my question. I know how it is to drive to Cham 1200km and climb next day, I know it's hard and I appreciate your achievement even more - it's a world class climb. But I don't think it is the reason for the news not to mention that some of the climbing was done on the 8th of March. That's all, no hard feelings, will get you a beer when meet in Cham some day.
Waldorf, It was just a joke ;) Sure, in the complete report you will get all the info and I'm happy for any feedback. Let me know by mail, I will be in cham in april.
Na webu NaVylet.cz objevte pestrou paletu turistickch cl a tip na vlet nap celou eskou republikou. Nechyb ani oblben lezeck oblasti jako esk rj s pohdkovmi skalnmi vemi i dramatick Labsk pskovce, kter lkaj dobrodruhy i horolezce z cel Evropy.
Registrace
Metodika
lezec.cz
Brnnsk dvojice Pavel "Baa" Vrtk a Jan "Straes" Straka opt spojila sly a vylezla dal pecku - prvovstup v severovchodn stn Les Droites.
Ano, iv!