Lezení v nevšedních oblastech stále přibývá. Obyčejné jejich nevšednost je přímo úměrná vzdálenosti, od centra Evropy tedy z Čech a pro řadu lezců cestovatelů tudíž nedostupné.
Nově objevený potenciál pro sápaly zdá se být Rumunsko a sice jeho severní část, která z Čech není tak vzdálena a ze Slovenska je jen coby kamenem dohodil.
Reliéf krajiny přechází od rovin až k 2500 m vysokým vrcholům, které jsou převážně tvořeny vápencem.
Historie a popis:
Lezecká historie se v Rumunsku datuje k začátku 20 století, v tuto dobu je ale orientována především na výstupy v Alpách, Kavkazu a jiné velehory.
Po politických změnách roku 1990, přichází plynulý nárůst počtu lezců a tvorba cest v Rumunských oblastech, sportovního charakteru. Až na současných X [8b].
Jedním z nejvýraznějších lezců je Olivier Batar, který začal psát historii sportovního lezení a na jehož pažbě jsou i nejhlubší zářezy v podobě nejtěžších cest v Rumunsku. Cesty jsou zajištěny v západním stylu a jsou po příjemně strukturovaném pevném vápenci.
Přístup:
Hlavním centrem pro oblast Lacu Rosu - Cheile Bicazului je město Lacu Rosu – počáteční bod pro všechny turistické výlety v pohoří Hasmas. Lacu Rosu leží státní silnici DN 12C, která spojuje Bicaz a Gheorghieni. Na silnici se nachází také stěny Cheile Bicazului asi 8 km od vesnice Bicaz Chei a Lacu Rosu. Přístup do této oblasti je nejlepší autem právě z DN 12 C, ale je možný i vlakem z Bicazu či Gheorghieni.
Je asi nejlepší oblastí s nejkvalitnějším vápencovým lezením v pěkné přírodě. Díky obětavým lidem v průběhu posledních let vzniklo velké množství moderních sportovních cest a vytvořilo se zde jádro těžkého a kvalitního sportovního lezení. Oblast nabízí přes 300 cest v 10 sektorech zvaných zóny (přístup max. 5min). Klasifikace převažuje mezi stupni 8-9, ale je zde i velké množství cest pro začátečníky. Cesty jsou převážně v kolmých i převislých stěnách. Charakter lezení osciluje od lezení po malých škrabkách a dirkách až po lezení po hlubokých děrách v převisech. Skála je pevná a je tedy možné lézt, díky dobrému zajištění a slaňovacím řetězům na koncích cest, v bezpečí. Stačí 50m lano.
Ubytování
Je zde široký výběr od hotelů až po chat s možností stravování.
Sektory a Cesty
FALEZA ASCUNSA
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Coma 8 15 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
2 Euthanasia 9 15 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
3 Death Angel 8- 15 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
ZONA "7 NOIEMBRIE"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Facelift 10/10+? 1 LC Oliver Batâr 2001
2 Vertical 8 1 LC Eduard Prosza 2001
3 Autobiografie 10/10+? 10 m. Oliver Batar 2001
ZONA "HORNUL MARE"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Acces 6- 18 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
2 El Dorado 8 18 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
3 Desperado 8 18 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
4 T-Rex 8-/8 22 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
4 Denko 8- 18 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
5 Kuss-Kuss 8/8+ 18 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
6 Kaua-Kaua 8- 18 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
7 Freestyler 9-/9 18 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
8 Pino 7/7+ 20 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
9 Pinocchio 7 20 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
10 Pinball 9- 20 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
11 Gepetto 7+ 20 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
ZONA "GÂTUL IADULUI"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Straight Line 6 1 LC Florian Mastacan, Viorel Tofan 2001
2 Papaligal 6+ 1 LC
3 Direct Action 10- 22 m. Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza 2000
4 Killer Edge 9+/10- 22 m. Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza 2000
5 Metro 8-/8 25 m. Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor 1991
6 Take A Nap 8/8+ 18 m. Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza 2001
7 Take A Break 9 18 m. Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza 2000
8 Spiderman 9+/10- 18 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
9 Merda 7+ 20 m. Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor 1991
10 Jumbo 8 18 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
11 Take Off 8 20 m. Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor 1991
12 Take A Beer 8+? 20 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
13 Latin Express 7/7+ 20 m. Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor 1991
14 Hopa Sus 7 20 m. Gheorghe Vizitiu, Tiberiu Kantor 1991
ZONA "LA IZVOR"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Acid Galactic 10- 16 m. Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza 2000
2 Styks 7- 16 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
3 Du-ti Free 9- 16 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
BOLOVANU LU CULITA
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Little Dick 8 10 m.
2 Face To Ass 8+ 10 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
3 Scarface 8+ 11 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
4 7-Up 7 12 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
ZONA "TURNUL NEGRU"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Arthur 9- 19 m. Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan 2001
1 Excalibur 7 19 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
3 Merlin 8? 19 m. Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan 2001
4 Arnold 7- 20 m. Casian Sanduta 1991
ZONA "CASUTE FISURA NEAGRA"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Fete de Fete 6 15 m.
2 Baga Dreapta 7/7+ 20 m.
3 Albinutza 7+? 15 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
FALEZA "K2"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 G-Force 10-? 25 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
2 Breakdance 9+/10- 25 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2000
3 Mambo 9- 25 m. Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza 2000
4 Dirtydance 8+ 25 m. Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza, Viorel Tofan 2000
5 Rocada 9-/9 1 LC Oliver Batâr 2001
6 Asfalt Tango 9- 1 LC Oliver Batâr 2001
7 Painkiller 9+/10- 1 LC Oliver Batâr 2000
8 Matrix 9 1 LC Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza 2000
9 Adelante 9- 20 m. Oliver Batâr, Eduard Prosza 2000
10 Insomnia 10- 25 m. Oliver Batâr 2000
11 Super Nova 9+ 25 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
12 Nova 9 20 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
13 Stairway To Heaven 7+ 20 m. Florian Mastacan 2001
14 Chic 8? 10 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
FALEZA "SCORPION"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Fresh & Free 9- 16 m. Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan 2001
2 Scorpionul 7+? 25 m. Francisc Heghedusz 1989
3 Lucky Strike 9 16 m. Oliver Batâr, Ovidiu Moldovan 2001
FALEZA "RAZA SOARELUI"
Číslo Název Klasifikace (UIAA) Tvůrce Rok
1 Martin 7+ 20 m. Michael Bucholtzer 1991
2 Minerul Max 8 25 m. Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu 2001
3 Ave Maria Max 8 25 m. Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu 2001
4 Morpheus 8 15 m. Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta 1991
5 Calypso 8 15 m. Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta 1991
6 Poseidon 8 15 m. Adi Stefan, Casian Sanduta 1991
7 Kamikaze 9- 25 m. Gabi Tofan 1991
8 Hellspown 8+? 20 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
9 Borobox 8/8+? 20 m. Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu 2001
10 Cap Horn 7/7+ 25 m. Eduard Prosza, Marius Grecu 2001
11 OK! My Brother 7+ 20 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
12 Glissando 9+ 25 m. Viorel Tofan 1991
13 Natural Blues 8-/8? 20 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2001
14 Saridon 7+? 15 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2001
15 Relax 7- 15 m. Dan Duta 1991
16 Delta 7? 15 m. Dan Duta 1991
17 LH 7 2 LC Liviu Horga 1991
18 Miana 7+ 20 m. Simion Poiana, Lucian Mihai 1992
19 Ioana 6+ 2 LC Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu 1978
20 Sarpele 6 25 m. Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu 1978
21 Ela 8-/8 25 m. Simion Poiana, Dan Duta 1991
22 Warm Up 5+ 25 m. Emil Coliban, Dan Vasilescu 1978
23 Lynx 7 25 m. Simion Poiana, Dan Duta 1991
24 Pas Final 7 25 m. Gabi Tofan, Simion Poiana 1991
25 Caruta cu Fraieri 7+ 25 m. Simion Poiana, Dan Duta 1991
26 Prietenia 8? 1 LC Viorel Tofan 2001
27 Happy End 9? 1 LC Oliver Batâr 2001
28 Broad Peak 8 10 m. Simion Poiana, Florin Botescu 1992
29 No More PC 8-? 20 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2001
30 Secret Ground 8? 20 m. Oliver Batâr, Viorel Tofan 2001
31 Body & Soul 8-/8 16 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
32 Rotpunkt 7 25 m.
33 Red Alert 8 16 m. Oliver Batâr 2001
Kdo by se chtěl dovedět více či si zajistit ubytování a další služby nechť smělě kontaktuje Oliviera Batara,Š neboť on je tvůrcem řady cest, průvodců a jeho živností je cestovní kancelář pro lezce v jeho zemi.
Jemu děkuji i za podrobné informace.
oliver_climb@yahoo.com
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