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Rakouský bouldering

Jeden muj známý(Pavel)se zmínil,že jede na služební cestu na třidny do Badenu v Rakousku aprotože taky leze doufal,že bude mít čas na nějaké to lezení .Zeptal se mně jestli nechcijet s ním,prý nemusím platit cestu,samozřejmě jsem chtěl jet,kor když nevyšlaplánovaná cesta do Zillertalu.Hned jsme sedli k počítači a po chvilce jsme našli na 8cplus.at,pruvodce na skály v okolí Badenu:Helenental,Merkenstein,Modling a další.

Po celkem rychlé jízdě(z Prahy asi 3,5hodiny),jsme v Badenu a protože je odpoledne jedem do Bad Voslau kde se nachází Merkenstein,přesně podle plánku parkujeme a jdem ke skalám.Věděl jsem,že tu pusobil i Klem Loskot,tak očekávám dobrou oblast.Musím říct,že bouldry nesklamaly,je tu něco kolem 140bouldru v pevném vápenci,podobný Fr.juře,dírky,lišty a hlavně převisy a stropy a tedy spíše silové lezení.


Energy Rush 8A(travers)

Skalní bloky se nacházejí ve vysokém listnatém lese,takže se dá lézt i v tuto dobu i když těžší věci se lépe lezli brzo ráno.Merkenstein je výhradně pro bouldristy,nejvíce problemů je okolo 6B Fb-klasifikaci.Tedy,když jsme přišli do skal,byli tu nějací lezci od Grazu a právě zkoušeli Loskotuv Totem 8A,což je nádherný silový problem přes jednoprstovku a lišty.Další které mohu doporučit jsou:UgaAgaIga 6C+(užasný skok),Base jumper 6B+,Minas Morgul 7C(vytrvalostní travers,díry),Chalkchouse 7C+ (strop,tři pohyby) a další.Je tu i pár projektů.Pavel večer odjíždí do hotelu,zítra ho čeká práce,slíbí že přijede.Já ulehám pod jedním převisem.


Totem 8A

Další den bouldruji až do uplného vyčerpání,poznávám i některé vzdálenější kameny a také se jdu podívat na zříceninu hradu.Navečer přijede Pavel,ještě nějaké to focení a trocha lezení a jedeme zpět do Badenu do údolí Helenental,kde přespíme.V pátek nejprve vyšlapeme k jeskyni- Königshole,kde je asi 20 bouldrů do 7C,nejhezčí je Golden Gate Bridge 7B+,který vede 8metrovou klenbou dva metry nad zemí.


Konigshole 7A

Jinak v Helenentalu se nachází spousta stěn do 25metrů s cestami do 11-. No my už toho máme celkem dost,takže po pár cestách balíme a nabíráme směr Praha.Až se tedy budete potulovat ve Vídni či v okolí,zkuste místo Peilsteinu,Baden.

Čermy   [úpravy] 10:06 17.06.2002Tisk 

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 foto
Duplicitni foto vymen, jinak pekny..
Zapsal: Maty, 10:21:20 17.06.2002
 No komment!!
Kopia správičky z 8cplus.at, kde je v podstate výčet jednodňového posobenia M.Č. na Markensteine!! Nie len Rakúšania by sa mali z takých výkonov posadiť na prdel a zháňať najbližšiu predajňu surfov...

"Martin Cermak (Tschechien) wütet unter NÖ`s Topboulder
24.05.2002
Tja, so wie es ausschaut hat uns der tschechische Wunderboulderer Martin Cermak einen Besuch abgestattet. Dabei kletterte er am 22.05.2002 in Merkenstein folgende Boulder:

Klems Traversenkombi im Sperrgebiet Fb 8a+ trav.
Energy Rush Fb 8a trav.
Totem SD Fb 8a bloc Flash!!!
Chalkhouse Fb 7c+ bloc
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Minas Morgul Fb 7b+/7c trav.
Slow Mode SD Fb 7b+ bloc Flash

Eine absolute Wahnsinnsleistung für einen Tag!!!!

Einen Tag später kletterte er in der Königshöhle die Golden Gate Bridge Fb 7b+ trav. onSight"
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