Rád bych Vám představil svou domácí oblast Čížkovy kameny. Tato oblast regionálního významu je tvořena pískovcovým masivem o délce cca 3 km a výšce max. 15 m. Jedná se o velmi tvrdý pískovec nabízející především lezení po kolmých nebo lehce převislých plotnách, ovšem je zde i několik poměrně zajímavých spár. Obtížnost cest se pohybuje v rozmezí I – IXc/Xa, vzhledem k malé výšce skal je obtížnost trochu tvrdší než třeba v nedalekém Adršpachu. Jištění většinou odpovídá pískovcovým zvyklostem , nicméně i sem před několika roky pronikl trend dobře odjištěných sportovně laděných cest. Nástupy cest jsou značeny šipkou spolu s obtížností a občas je zde i název, k lepší orientaci pomůže i několik vrcholových knížek. Oblast se je schovaná v lese nad obcí Bohuslavice, cca 5 km od Trutnova. V případě, že se odhodláte využít služeb českých drah, stačí vystoupit na zastávce Bohuslavice a odtud se po lesní cestě vydat do kopce, kde nás turistická značka zavede až ke skalám ( cca 20 min.). V případě, že přijedete svým stříbrným sršáněm, tak se asi nejlepší nechat auto v půli kopce na odbočce lesní cesty ( raději před zákazem vjezdu) na silnici Bohuslavice - Velké Svatoňovice. (viz.mapka) Odtud pěšky cca 20 min a jste u skal.
Začátek skal je tvořen nízkými skalkami do cca 8 m výška a jsou zde krásné bouldry. Upozorňuju předem hlavní sval je mozek ( asi jako všude na písku) a vylezení některých boulderů za III nemusí vždy záležitost pohodového OS, ale spíš vypocený RP na x-tej pokus s velkou tendencí zahazovat lezečky do údolí. Klid klasifikace je tvrdá, často nevyvážena a subjektivní a často jde jen o to najít ten správnej chyt a skrytej stup. Na toto pásmo menších skalek a kamenů pak už navazuje kompaktní masív s max. výškou cca 15 m . Jednoznačně doporučuju cesty „Klekání IXa“ (3 br), super boulder „Pink Floyd VII“ (2 br), „Titanic VIIIb“ (3 br) a spoustu dalších.
Pokud jste vyznavači boulderingu jako já , můžu tuto oblast doporučit. Je zde spousta vylezených boulderů, ale i poměrně velké množství nevyřešených problémů na masívu a i kameny pod masívem jsou zatím zapomenuty a stranou zájmu lezců. U většiny boulderů je poměrně dobrý dopad, nicméně bouldermatka určitě neuškodí. Čížkovy kameny je krásná malá oblast, kde se dá pěkně v klidu zalízt a je zde i jediněčný výhled na Krkonoše.
je mi to jasny, sbalit svacu, kilo maga, novej film, prijet, videt, vyfotit, nakreslit, zpracovat a publikovat :-)
Zapsal: kamilh, 16:13:02 03.06.2002
Suprčlánek, suprtip!!!! Jen jednu chybu to má!!!!!!!
Proč proboha zase to mádžo???? Vždyť to na písek zásadně nepatří!!!!!!! Tim že jsi zde zveřejnil své jinak pěkné fotky právě s tímto pytlíkem, tak právě tímto krokem jsi všechny budoucí potencionální zájemce o tuto oblast nasměroval špatným směrem, což spočívá v postupné destrukce této jinak pěkné buldršutroblasti (v Praze na Petříně je něco podobnýho a MG se tam taky nesmí!!!!). Vím že mádžo k tomuto druhu lezení neodmyslitelně patří a já bych zde skutečně velmi nerad rozpoutal diskuzi na téma "mádžo a etika lezení na našich sandstones". Na to má určitě každý svůj názor a já bych tu fakt nechtěl započat tuto diskuzi. Berte to jen jako názor, nebo komentář.Howgh
Dík a čusbus
Zapsal: Luk, 21:09:59 03.06.2002
Mágo na písku
Zdar Luku,
Vím že to na písek nepatří, ale za tu dobu co s tím lezu jsem nezjistil co škodí víc zda-li pot nebo maglajz. Ale to teď nechci rozebírat. Fotky jsou 3 roky starý a já si už moc nepamatuju jaký bylo počasí když jsme to fotil- všechny jsou z jednoho dne. Nicméně v této oblasti se nachází často v písku křemencové oblázky a zkus udržet chyt kde jsou hladký křemencový kameny lehce spocenou rukou - nemáš šanci.
Nechci to moc rozebírat protože to nikam nevede, ale v maglajzu bych problém neviděl -horší je sekání, dření skály lanem a špatný chování překlížkovej odchovanců, co se neuměj na skalách chovat a nevyrostli tam jako já.
Hmm, tohle je typické. "Vím že tam nepatří. Lezu s ním tři roky". Tenhle náš lezecký egoismus je časovaná bomba. Na problém magnézia je potřeba se podívat z jiné strany. Fakta jsou tato:
1) Magnézium je na písku všude výslovně zakázáno používat.
2) Lezení je všude na písku možné jen díky výjimce z všeobecného zákazu lezení v rezervacích a podobných územích. Používání magnézia je porušením podmínek, za kterých byly výjimky uděleny a mohlo by vést k jejich zrušení.
3) Přes zákaz používají magnézium na písku především špičkoví lezci a jejich vzorem se řídí čím dál více ostatních. (Dialog u Východní cesty na Sťatého majora VIIa: "Hele a to potřebuješ maglajz i na takovouhle cestu?" Mladý výkonný borec: "No my už jsme tak zvyklí"
Myslím, že by měli zastánci maglajzu na písku podniknout kroky k jeho legalizaci. Stav kdy je něco zakázáno a obecně se to nedodržuje není dlouhodobě udržitelný. Než se jim to podaří, měli by se maglajzu vzdát, protože jím ohrožují možnosti lezení do budoucna za cenu, že něco vylezou teď a tady.
Na okraj mne tak napadá jak by to vypadalo, kdyby si chtěl na písku zalézt mixový extrémista zvyklý na mačky a zbraně....
Máš, Petře, hlubokou pravdu. Myslím, že by se kroky k legalizaci měly podniknout co nejdřív (co je tčeba udělat jsem tady už v jedný planý diskusi docela podrobně popsal).
A navíc, mágo vadí (teda ochranářům) především z estetických důvodů (něvo jako oranžový kruhy, jen je to vidět eště víc a z vězší dálky a vůbec...).
Takže cestou by mohlo být barvený máčo. Navíc na západ od našich hranic se čím dál tím víc používají místo máča jakési pryskyřice (legalizované, nebo alespoň ne zakázané).
Jo a pro všechny klasiky co se mě teď chytaj sežrat: nelezu s tim. V té obtížnosti, kde se normálně pohybuju, to nějak nepotřebuju.
Zdárek Cábo,
Super článek tak to má být!!!Luk a podobný proč pořád vyříte hladinu teď už sem nikdo nenapíše něco pořadného (a ne jen tlachy o ničem) abyste ho za něco nezkritizovali vždyť tato diskuse se taty pořád mele do kolo "mágo"tak aspoň nechte být dobrej článek v klidu a rozviřte si svoje úvahy např.do diskuze toď vše!!!
Bingo! Všem, co si chtěj povídat o mágu doporučuju pokračovat v diskusi u článku Skalkaš vs. písek č. 1 (72 komentářů, většinou na toto téma)...
Zapsal: Tomáš F., 11:44:52 04.06.2002
Jsem mimo !?
Chtěl jsem napsat článek o oblasti co mám rád a kde rád boulderuju. Ale vy reagujete na něco úplně jinýho. Upřímně nemám chuť to rozebírat, chci lízt - a vo tom to je !
Nelezu klasiky s maglajzem! Nesekám chyty, nepomáhám si za kruhym nesatvím tam kde se nemá, nedrřu lano o skálu jen proto , že se můj parťák bojí dát lepší slanění, nedělám bordel. Maglajz při boulderech požívám a používat budu. Hlavní problém s ochranáři vydím v používání špatných přístupových cest ke skalám a vytváření nových v erozní půdě, v lezení na mokrý skály , v plašení ptáku leením na uzavřené skály, v nechávání bordelu pod skálama, ve zbytečnym bordelu co některý partičky takylezců ve skalách dělaj atd.
Chtěl jsem psát jen o novejch oblatech a ne prudit a moralisticky tlachat.
tak snad už naposled poruším to, jak jsem se zařekl, že o maglajzu ani slovo:
tak kurva lezte s tim barevným (žlutým nebo šedým), koupit se to dá, a každýmu tvrďte že je to píseček nasbíranej pod věží u nástupu, a nepředvádějte se, jaký jste free rebelové a jak jsou vám všechny dohody u prdele.
Zapsal: Lukas B., 12:34:08 04.06.2002
RE: barevnej maglajz
Upřímně ještě jsem ho neviděl - kde ho maj ? nejsem proti !
tak nejdřív se ti omlouvám že jsem neodolal a pokračoval v zasviňování diskuse pod pěkným článkem maglajzem. kde ho mají? nevím. byl u nás v prodeji už v roce 1994? v Gentianě, tenkrát ještě v Řipské ulici, jestli není v prodeji, tak pro absolutní nezájem zákazníků. V každém případě však asi není problém oslovit některého z kšeftmenů (např. Vagon, Šťáva apod.) aby jej dovezli a za 14 dní by byl. ale bude to asi dražší.
anebo po tom pokukovat ve Frankrajchu nebo u taliánů v klimberskejch kšeftech, a přivézt si toho tunu.
Zapsal: Lukas B., 13:25:56 04.06.2002
RE:Tomáš F.
Jsme-li už u té estetiky, mne se skala obělená takle navečer se září zapadajícího slunce fak moc moc líbí. A teď když tady čtu, že nemusím čekat až navečer, abych si vychutnal načervený nádech pocukravaných chytů .Jsem klidný a je to fajn.
Zapsal: Bobo, 19:32:44 06.06.2002
ten barevnej...
Omlouvám se, že to tady zase zasviňuju něčím co sem nepatří, ale kdybyste věděli, kde to barvený máčo maj, zajímalo by mě to taky. Že ho mívala Gentiana vím. Prej maj pořád velkoobchod (ale už ne v Petrský), nevíte kde? Třeba jim něco zbylo.
Zapsal: Tomáš F., 12:13:14 07.06.2002
RE.všechno..
Zdar Cábo, buď v klidu..Oblast to je ouplně super a jestli se ve skalách chováš tak, jak si říkal, tak se nemáš za co stydět..On sice maglajz dělá bílý fleky, ale taková pěkně zpocená ručka taky umí svý...a kdo nevěří ať se jede podívat třeba do skaláku...na spoutě klasik sou "náádherný" černý fleky od docela agresivního potu. A že je nesportovní lízt s maglajzem?? To má stejnou váhu jako tvrdit, že je nesportovní jezdit na lyžích s grafitovou skluznicí, protože jasanky sou klasika. A tohle typické české zpátečnictví?? Nejsem utopista, ale loňské sněhy sou tak trochu pryč.
ahoj,to je fajn že je zase další hezký místo, kam si můžeme jet zablbnout,díky
Zapsal: vendula, 16:43:46 08.06.2002
lidi, v klidu!!!
Takovej pěknej článek a vy se hned hádáte!!!
sice jsem z Ústí,ale když budu mít cestu kolem,neváhám,vypadá to hodně dobře.v létě bude času habaděj a tak proč si neudělat lezeckej vejlet po celý republice (třeba tak na tři tejdny)??? Jo a chtěl bych sdělit jeden malej postřeh - na Sněžníku (děčinskej mám na mysli) jsou parádní bouldry,je tam toho moře,zatím jenom skrytej tip,ale kámoš dokonce plánuje průvodce (doufám,že jsem neprozradil to,co jsem neměl). A propo:všimněte si,že v průvodci TISÁ-RÁJEC-SNĚŽNÍK je v posledně jmenovaný oblasti asi jenom 12 (teď střílim vod voka) masívů,na kterejch jsou cesty.KURVA PROČ??? Musim se přiznat,že okolo sněžníku jezdim poslední dobou spíš jenom na kole,ALE NEJSEM SLEPEJ!!! Těch věží je tam aspoň 100 (!!!) a to si vážně nedělám prdel!Proč to tam není okruhovaný,vždyť by to byla oblast jako blázen.Kolem dokola jedna skála vedle druhý.A ouplně holý.Můžete mi to někdo vysvětlit??? Třeba nejsem jenom informovanej... Joooo, a poslední věc,debaty o maglajzu fuckt nemaj cenu,je furt to samý dokola,ale přesto mě to vyprovokovalo.Jenom chcu říct,že jakýsi Petr Jandík má pravdu.Maglajz bych viděl tak od 8a a vejš,jenže... Zaleží na podmínkách - jestli je 45 na slunci,tak bez maglajzu(???);nebo když je to zelený jak bažina tak co,že ano...
já hlava děravá,enom si vzpomínám,co mi říkal kámosh,tvrdil cosi o zaručený zprávě.kurňajs,ale už je to dost dlouho...říkal cosi o pilinách (hergot,ale z jakýho dřeva,to už si nevzpomínám) - hodíte do pytle a lezete jedna radost.Prej to zkoušel a pařáty měl ÚPLNĚ suchý!!! NO VIDÍTE: A BEZ NAMÁČENÍ!!!!!
já hlava děravá,enom si vzpomínám,co mi říkal kámosh,tvrdil cosi o zaručený zprávě.kurňajs,ale už je to dost dlouho...říkal cosi o pilinách (hergot,ale z jakýho dřeva,to už si nevzpomínám) - hodíte do pytle a lezete jedna radost.Prej to zkoušel a pařáty měl ÚPLNĚ suchý!!! NO VIDÍTE: A BEZ NAMÁČENÍ!!!!!
já hlava děravá,enom si vzpomínám,co mi říkal kámosh,tvrdil cosi o zaručený zprávě.kurňajs,ale už je to dost dlouho...říkal cosi o pilinách (hergot,ale z jakýho dřeva,to už si nevzpomínám) - hodíte do pytle a lezete jedna radost.Prej to zkoušel a pařáty měl ÚPLNĚ suchý!!! NO VIDÍTE: A BEZ NAMÁČENÍ!!!!!
já hlava děravá,enom si vzpomínám,co mi říkal kámosh,tvrdil cosi o zaručený zprávě.kurňajs,ale už je to dost dlouho...říkal cosi o pilinách (hergot,ale z jakýho dřeva,to už si nevzpomínám) - hodíte do pytle a lezete jedna radost.Prej to zkoušel a pařáty měl ÚPLNĚ suchý!!! NO VIDÍTE: A BEZ NAMÁČENÍ!!!!!
sice jsem z Ústí,ale když budu mít cestu kolem,neváhám,vypadá to hodně dobře.v létě bude času habaděj a tak proč si neudělat lezeckej vejlet po celý republice (třeba tak na tři tejdny)??? Jo a chtěl bych sdělit jeden malej postřeh - na Sněžníku (děčinskej mám na mysli) jsou parádní bouldry,je tam toho moře,zatím jenom skrytej tip,ale kámoš dokonce plánuje průvodce (doufám,že jsem neprozradil to,co jsem neměl). A propo:všimněte si,že v průvodci TISÁ-RÁJEC-SNĚŽNÍK je v posledně jmenovaný oblasti asi jenom 12 (teď střílim vod voka) masívů,na kterejch jsou cesty.KURVA PROČ??? Musim se přiznat,že okolo sněžníku jezdim poslední dobou spíš jenom na kole,ALE NEJSEM SLEPEJ!!! Těch věží je tam aspoň 100 (!!!) a to si vážně nedělám prdel!Proč to tam není okruhovaný,vždyť by to byla oblast jako blázen.Kolem dokola jedna skála vedle druhý.A ouplně holý.Můžete mi to někdo vysvětlit??? Třeba nejsem jenom informovanej... Joooo, a poslední věc,debaty o maglajzu fuckt nemaj cenu,je furt to samý dokola,ale přesto mě to vyprovokovalo.Jenom chcu říct,že jakýsi Petr Jandík má pravdu.Maglajz bych viděl tak od 8a a vejš,jenže... Zaleží na podmínkách - jestli je 45 na slunci,tak bez maglajzu(???);nebo když je to zelený jak bažina tak co,že ano...
Tak sem si přečet, co tady píšete. Nemám toho moc nalezenýho, ale baví mě to. Lepší by to bylo pe MG. Když na to nemáš tak si nepomáhej. Jinak je to fajn článek. :)
Tak jsme na Cizkace konecne o vikendu vyrazili a bylo to moc hezky, fakt bych takhle kvalitni skalky v lese nad Trutnovem nehledal, diky za tip. Pojedem tam zas!
na Čížkovy kameny jsem vyrazil ze zvědavosti s dětmi před 14 dny. Bylo to fajn, zalezli jsme si na dvojkách, trojkách. Klasifikace u nástupů mě osobně stačí, ale děti jsou zvídavé. Ptaly se mě jak se tahle skála jmenuje, jak se jmenuje tahle cesta a já neměl odpověď. Baví nás večer si sednout a do notýsku si psát co se vylezlo a tímto způsobem si to ještě jednou prožít. Tentokrát byl zápis velmi stručný. Nestálo by za to dát alespoň stručného průvodce na web? Je to určitě levnější a rychlejší než vydávání v papírové formě.
Ahoj a díky za článek,
Pepis
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