A máme tu další díl Vašeho oblíbeného seriálu o skalních oblastech České republiky ze sudeťáckého vydavatelství Papouš. Tentokrát o kvaku, ale zato stodvacetimetrovém a na tři délky.
Kozího vrchu si cestou z Ústí nad Labem do Děčína nemůžete nevšimnout. Jednak silnice a dráha vedou těsně u jeho úpatí, jednak vás určitě zaujmou černá čedičová skaliska, která se větví na několik mohutných pilířů. Srdce klimbéra zaplesá.
Leč ouha! Po bližším ohledání se zjistí, že pilíře jsou sice velkolepé, ale rozum zůstává stát, jak drží pohromadě. Kvalita skály je pekelná - čeho se dotknete, to vám bez přehánění zůstane v ruce.
Přesto se našel směr, kudy touhle hromadou štěrku prostoupit. Mezi skalními žebry vede žlab, který je relativně pevný. Volné šutry tu vymlela stékající voda, případně je vylámal mráz. V roce 1994 tu Karel Bělina s Jiřím Chárou udělali cestu Zlatý důl, obtížnosti 5. Ta se letos dočkala i varianty Královská vyhlídka (Bělina a jeho žena Fróna), taky 5 - viz CAO News Děčín, číslo 10/2002.
Schéma Kozího vrchu FOTO: ARCHIV JETYHO
Spodní společná část cest vede položeným korytem až do zúžení, kde je první štand. K němu je celkem pevno, borháků husto, obezřetnost je ale na místě. Výstup pak pokračuje koutem ke druhému stanovišti na malé plotně. Tady se cesty větví pod výrazným žebrem. Zlatý důl vede vlevo od něj, Královská vyhlídka přes zlatý nýt vpravo od něj. Pod žebrem vlevo je kniha. Z ní se dozvíte, že cestu leze hlavně její autor, jinak v ní příliš zápisů za osm let není.
Královská vyhlídka je noblesně odjištěná nýty a borháky. Je k tomu důvod - lámavosti přibývá, varianta není ještě olezená. U výlezu na ukloněný svah je ještě štand ze skob, lepší je ale štandovat u některého z pahýlu stromů dál. Nad travnatým svahem je ještě lámavý skalně-travní výšvih s nýtem a borhákem. Na jeho vrcholu už není co lézt.
Ve žlabu se může držet voda, příliš to ale nevadí. Dá se tu dokonce bez větších potíží lézt, i když prší, protože terén je ukloněný a zdejší materiál dobře drží i za mokra.
První délku cesty Zlatý důl tvoří široký žlab. V jeho zúžení (patrném na snímku) je po čtyřiceti metrech lezení štand ze dvou borháků. FOTO: ARCHIV JETYHO
Proč na Kozí vrch nejezdit? Láme se to, nástup suťákem není nejjednodušší, vracet se z vrcholu pro věci na začátek cesty je taky trip džunglí, jsou tu klíšťata, u nichž hygienici prokázali původce encefalitidy.
Proč se na Kozí vrch vydat? Cesta je při troše opatrnosti vcelku bezpečná, je perfektně odjištěná (nic vlastního tu ostatně ani nezaložíte). Krásná expozice a omračující délka. Je tu pěkná příroda a nóbl výhled.
Co za matroš s sebou: určitě HELMU!!!, vzal bych i prsák, jinak potřebujete jen expresky, špagát a boty. Maglajz nevozte, je to lehké. Do cesty bych přibral i mobil pro případ průšvihu. Napatlejte se repelentem proti klíšťatům.
Jety dolézá k prvnímu štandu, který je v místě, kde se nástupový žlab zužuje. Pod ním je Labe, silnice a železnice z Ústí do Děčína. V náspu dráhy je dobře patrná "myší díra", jeden z možných přístupů. FOTO: ARCHIV JETYHO
Přístup: Z ústecké čtvrti Mojžíř - buď z konečné trolejbusu 57, nebo ze stejnojmenné zastávky osobního vlaku na trati 090 - se dáte směrem na Děčín po silnici, která po levé straně kopíruje tah Ústí - Děčín. Minete poslední domek, podejdete "myší dírou" pod tratí a ocitnete se před velkým suťovištěm. Tím se vydáte po pravé straně do prudkého kopce, až dorazíte k převislému hliněnému břehu. Přelezete jej a dáte se doleva lesem až k začátku výrazného koutu. U jeho paty je jeden nerez borhák z pásoviny. Tady začíná Zlatý důl.
Další varianty přístupu: Autem z Neštědic po silničce na Mašovice (detailní info v článku o Studeném masivu zde na Lezci). Pojedete do prudkého kopce, Kozí vrch po levé ruce. V pravotočivé zatáčce, kde odbočuje zelená značka doleva, nechte auto a přes louku sejděte do sedla Koza Hillu. Tady je turistický rozcestník a vychází odtud cesta na vrchol. Z vršku sestupte centrálním žlabem po jižním svahu až k nástupu cesty. Je z vašeho pohledu po pravé ruce.
Hospa: Kulatou bábu v Neštědicích vzala v srpnu voda, jak to tam vypadá teď, nevím. Já bych jel někam do centra Aussigu, třeba k Vlkovi nebo do Lípy na Schreckensteinu.
Jety se blíží na travnatý svah nad místem, kde se na Kozím vrchu spojují cesty Zlatý důl a Královská vyhlídka. Za jeho hlavou je ve směru k silnici patrný pilíř porostlý žlutou tařicí, který oba dva výstupy odděluje. Na vrchol mu zbývá třicet metrů. FOTO: ARCHIV JETYHO
Lákáš nás sice pěkně ale mam před sebou knihu Lezecký průvodce, II. doplněné vydání, vydal Horoklub Chomutov, redakční uzávěrka byla 15. 9. 2001 a tam se píše na straně 279:
"Kozí vrch - zákaz horolezecké činnosti.
Výstupy v pravé části nad tratí vylezl Rudolf Zabilka v roce 1965. Jedná se o čtyři dlouhé cesty. Později byla tato část potažena mohutným pletivem. Výstupy se nacházejí v těsné blízkosti trati, proto je lezení v této oblasti zakázané. Pletivo zde již není. Výška 380m nad mořem."
Nerad Ti kazim radost ale pochybuju že trať vod tý doby přeložili.....
trať nepřeložili, skály naopak ještě důkladněji potáhli pletivem, leč tyto jsou v PRAVÉ části Kozího vrchu. Popisované trasy jsou v LEVÉ části kopce (jak snad bude patrné ze snímků, které by zanedlouho měly k článku přibýt). Restrikci stran železnici chápu (Kdo z nás by chtěl shodit šutr a vykolejit EC Lojza Negrelli), stran zdejší úžasnou přírodu ne. (Na ceduli o rezervaci na úpatí Kozího vrchu se o ničem takovém nepíše.)
Nevidím ani důvod, proč by tu měl skrz přírodu nějaký zákaz lezení platit - nástup je suťovištěm, které vzniklo tím, že tu za bolševika lámali šutr (envitomental impact lezce na toto prostředí roven nule), výstup vede žlabem vymydleným vodou, náhodné květině se člověk vyhne (EI lezce též nula), sestup z vršku k nástupu vede suťoviskem skrz les (EI lezce též nula). Kdo vyřezal stromy v travnatém svahu v poslední délce, nevím, ale pochybuju, že to byl Karel B.
A navíc: lidi se sem fakt nehrnou (viz zápisy ve stěnové knize). Je to spíš pro nadšence, co to ještě mají za barákem. Takže nějaké zákazy jsou spíš pro pořádek, aby se neřeklo.
Původně jsem se chtěl této debatě na "zelené" téma vyhnout, ale stejně zase vyhřezlo. Teď očekávám nějakou neverending debatu o tom, že jestli si to přečte nějaký ochranář, tak Bůh s klimbéry, ale na to celkem kašlu. K přírodě se snažím chovat ohleduplně, tak proč by mě odtud měl někdo vyhánět.
Navíc je popis cesty umístěn ve veřejně přístupné publikaci.
Ne ze by to Papousi byla moje parketa, ale rad jsem si to precetl. Z fotek mi prijde jasne, ze trat bys ohrozil padajicim kamenem asi tezko a tip proti klistatum ? Jet tam v obdobi, kdy uz nejsou. Dik a zdar.
Díky Papouši, jedu tam, to jsou moje terény:-). Doufám, že z knihy opíšu tvůj podpisový vzor. Jsem rád, že nejsem sám magorem.
A jeden tip. Klíšťátka jsou zvířátka nekrocená, čili divoká a plachá. Takže když dole zařvete, určitě utečou.
Zapsal: Maty, 08:17:02 22.10.2002
horolezcuv duch
Taky jste si vsimli? Z tohoto puvabneho clanecku proste cisi ten entuziasmus. Mame za barakem ohromnou skalu. Je sice polozena, rozbita,...(ctenar muze dosadit dle svych zkusenosti obrostla, zatarasena padlymi kmeny, hlidana statnymi dobrmany, musime si udelat lomarske zkouzky nebo cekat az vypusti prehradu atp.) A presto nekteri horolezci maji v sobe neco jineho nez vsichni ostatni. Snad jsou znudeni oblezanim starych cest, nebo hladovi po tvoreni neceho noveho, po doteku neochmatane skaly. At uz je to jak koliv, jednoho dne vyrazi z kladivy, motorovymi pilami, kartaci, lopatou ci jakymkoliv prihodnym naradim do terenu a tvori tu svoji cestu. A nedosti na tom. Umistuji stenovou nebo vrcholovou knizku, kterou posleze pravidelne kontroluji. Proc? No aby zjistili, jakym zivotem to jejich detatko (Frankenstein) zije.
Soucitim s vami, nebot jsem jednim z vas. I ja se raduji z kazdeho zapisu na tom "mem prasku", "moji vezi", "mojem kvaku" kdesi v divocine. Tak daleko od popularnich oblasti, kde jiz vse (pri nejmensim v te moji obtiznosti) bylo davno vylezeno.
Královská vyhlídka má od pátku knížku. Potkali jsme Karla Bělinu, jak si to štráduje s fungl novým, povrlskou mědí se lesknoucím futrálem, nóbl nalakovaným stojánkem a s knížkou, v níž je i pěkná fotéčka. Bude ve stěně, kde se výstupy větví. Na tomto místě podle KB přibude ještě jeden štand, aby se lezci dobře slyšeli při jištění.
Zdar bergsteigre,koukam draha promotera Bělinových kvaku by ti sla docela dobre.Predpokladam, že jsi to lezl??Jake byly tvoje dojmy? Zdarec a je tak dal, vyštourej zase nejakou libustku, rad se pobavim tvým jazykovým uměním.Nevím jestli si už náhodou nepsal něco o Vrabinci??Předpokladam, že ano.Tak Zatim bobr, Berg Heil Rehy
Pěkne1 kolona, ouecnji zřejmě provedned přepadů etanolu-refluxu se zapuštěnfdmi přepe1žkami nad hlavou kolony, bohužel fota horned če1sted kolony sche1zed, předpadně rozložene9 jsou zaizolovane9.Ale vfdška ne1plnove9 kolony a ne1plně 150cm je extre9mned a neodůvodněne1, na rektifikaci až přes 90% etanolu(u špatnějšedho jablečne9ho kvasu)mě osobně bohatě stačed vfdška ne1plně keramic. kroužků vel. 8mm -70cm. Zkoušel jsem různe9 vfdšky ne1plně a pod 50-60cm již je cedtit kyselfd konec, špatně rektifikuje.Nad 70cm naopak rektifikuje stabilně na až 96% etanol a při nastavened refluxu se poře1d tlačed kolona spedše k 90%, nebo při většedm zeslabened refluxu skokově doche1zed k neže1doucedmu vzrůstu teploty nad cca 85C.Optimum pro velejemnou vonavou ovocnou pe1lenku je kolem 65-75cm. KEG sudy nejsou vhodne9 na huste9 ovocne9 kvasy, jen na přecezene9 sladove9 a kukuřične9 kvasy jako se použedvajed v USA a Ze1padě.Neprakticke9 vypouštěned kvasu, nemožnost pohledove9ho vyplachove1ned jako důležite1 prevence připalove1ned zbytků předchozedho kvasu.Bez dvojple1ště nebo medchadla je ze1zrak nepřipe1lit kvas.Max
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Registrace
Metodika
lezec.cz
A máme tu další díl Vašeho oblíbeného seriálu o skalních oblastech České republiky ze sudeťáckého vydavatelství Papouš. Tentokrát o kvaku, ale zato stodvacetimetrovém a na tři délky.
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