Kanadský top závodník Sean McColl si stěžuje na to, že byl v kvalifikaci MS v lezení na obtížnost penalizován za stoupnutí na reklamní banner, a srovnává prohřešek s naším Adamem Ondrou, který za podobný krok penalizován nebyl.

Stejně jako Sean byl penalizován Francouz Romain Desgranges.

Adam Ondra na rozdíl od těchto dvou by do semifinále postoupil, i pokud by penalizován byl, protože by mu stačil výborný výsledek v druhé cestě, v níž dal také top.

Sean McColl a s ním i kanadská národní federace žádájí IFSC, aby spornou situaci vyřešili tak, že by ze 26 postupujících do semifinále nikdo nevypadl, ale že by se počet semifinalistů rozšířil o 2 - o něj a o Romaina Desgrangese. Argumentuje tím, že vedle toho, že banner byl špatně umístěn, mělo by se měřit všem stejně.

Sean svou stížnost dal na Instagram, kde zveřejnil i videozáběry zmíněného incidentu v podání Adama Ondry a pak provedení, jak to lezl on sám (po kliknutí na malou šipku vpravo):

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I want to start by saying that I am in no way criticizing any athletes. As IFSC Athlete Representative, I fight for athletes’ rights and their right to be judged and scored unbiased and equivalently across the board. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ In the Lead qualifications here at the 2018 World Championships, I climbed one route almost to the top and upon review was scored much lower on the route because of “touching” a sponsorship logo on the wall. The same review and score was given to FRA Romain Desgranges (who also almost topped the route) for the same reason. The issue at hand is that we were not judged the same as all the other athletes. In my example here, CZE athlete Adam Ondra touched the signage in the EXACT same manner (debatable as always) and was not given the same treatment, process, or score as myself or Romain. [my video is second, swipe left] ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ We can all agree that the sign was placed in a poor position; the matter at hand is the difference and error in judging (even after appeal) in this round. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ I am not calling out Mr. Ondra whatsoever, he did nothing wrong and I admire, respect, and idolize him. What is strange is that even if the officials had scored him down to where he touched the logo, he did so well on the other qualification route that he would still have advanced. This adds to the puzzle in my mind of why they didn’t treat all athletes equally. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ I speak out now because I don’t want ANY athlete EVER in our sport to be treated differently for ANY reason. There are still many days at this World Championships, I myself have two more disciplines to compete in, and I don’t want any more mistakes. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ What I want, and what I’m appealing (as well as my NF) to the IFSC (@ifsclimbing) is for them to admit the signage was placed poorly and remove the down-score from any affected athlete. This would qualify both Romain and myself for semis. I would not call for a re-calculation, which would put two climbers out of semis, rather +2 extra in the round tomorrow.

A post shared by Sean McColl (@mccollsean) on Sep 8, 2018 at 8:07am PDT

Adam Ondra k incidentu nezávisle na iniciativě Seana McColla řekl, že se dlouho řešilo, jestli bude v jedné cestě diskvalifikován nebo ne. "Protože jsem údajně stoupl na reklamní banner. Naštěstí mi to uznali, že jsem na něj sice stoupl, ale že mně nepomohl. Nicméně třeba takového Romaina Desgrangese z Francie, tak tahle chyba stála vůbec postup do semifinále. Já tedy naštěstí, i kdybych byl diskvalifikován za tento prohřešek, tak výkon v druhé kvalifikační cestě by mě vlastně zachránil a bylo by z toho i relativně dobré umístění. To znamená, že bych byl možná 10., 15.,.. něco takového.

Krátce před začátkem semifinále Adam ještě zveřejnil na Instagramu post s videem detailu incidentu s komentářem, že si myslí, že se banneru nedotkl. Podle něj to především byla obrovská chyba stavěče, že umístil reklamní banner do míst, kam se noha přirozeně dostane, a těžko říct, jak se rozhodčí měli zachovat. A dodává , že neví, co přimělo rozhodčí, že jeho pustili dál, a Seana a Romaina nikoli:

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Going into semifinals very soon here in @innsbruck2018 and getting psyched, but I am really sad that @seanmccol and Romain Desgranges did not make the semifinals which will not be as packed as it could be without these 2 legends. . It was clearly a huge mistake of the routesetter at the first place, putting the banner where it was clearly natural to place your foot. Hard to say how the judges should have reacted, but letting this happen is very sad. . Comparison videos/stills that went through the social media were all taken from the right hand side. I have really no clue what led judges to the conclusion that I was OK with that and Sean and Romain were not, but from this video - taken from the left hand side - it seems I am using the wall just barely above the banner. . Once you realize that I am only using the inner edge of my shoe - and my toe is comfortably above the banner - I do not think I am touching the banner. . Just an interesting note - in my case, I would have made the semifinals anyway, the result has no relevance for the further competiton - because of seperation of the field into two qualification groups, there is no countback in case of ties.

A post shared by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on Sep 9, 2018 at 1:55am PDT

Šéfem stavěčů cest na obtížnost na MS v Innsbrucku je náš Jan Zbranek.