Alexander Huber a Fabian Buhl vylezli volně cestu Sueños de Invierno (540m, 8a) na ikonický skalní monolit Picu Urriellu (2518m) v Picos de Europa ve Španělsku. Zimní prvovýstup v roce 1983 trval po 69 dní a přilákal tehdy pozornost celého Španělska včetně krále Juana Carlose.
Němci Alex s Fabim přelezli cestu Sueños de Invierno (Zimní sny) po 5 dnech nacvičování letos v září RP za 9 hodin. Cesta je v odvážném stylu, prvovýstupci takřka nepoužívali nýty, a tak se cesta leze zřídka. Podívejte se na klip:
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free "Sueños de Invierno” (540m, 8a) on Picu Urriellu, Spain from planettalkgmbh on Vimeo.
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free "Sueños de Invierno” (540m, 8a) on Picu Urriellu, Spain
While the first ascenders, José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives needed 69 days in the winter 33 years ago, the German climbing duo of Alexander Huber (47) and Fabian Buhl (25) required only 9 hours: they free climbed the infamous "Sueños de Invierno” route (literally winter sleep) on the Asturian monolith Picu Urriellu – in the climbing world better known as the “Naranjo de Bulnes” – and created a sensation in the whole of Spain. This was because the time of over two months non-stop on the rock by the first ascenders is still a record to this day – no-one else has climbed for so long without a break on a rock face. The puristic protection they used contributed to the myth – apart from at the belay stations, the first people to climb this route almost completely avoided the use of bolts, which is precisely why repeats of this route are very rare. Huber and Buhl invested five days in checking the puristic route, before daring to try redpointing it on 23rd September, which they managed at the first attempt. During their climb the first Spanish media representatives made their way to Asturia, to report on this sensational ascent.
