V dnešním dílu o oblastech skalního lezení v Čechách se můžete dozvědět něco o Horních skalách.
Horní skály, zvané též Obrvegry, tvoří skupinou sedmi skalních věží. Jsou příkladem cenomanských pískovců, v nichž se vedle základního křemencového tmelu vyskytují i žíly, tmelené vápencem. Skály jsou pro svou velkou členitost a pevnost oblíbeným cílem horolezců a na jejich vrcholy vedou cesty až VII. stupně obtížnosti. Věže
Bylo by moc dobre, kdyby se zacali do pruvodcu psat krome kruhu (borhaku) i dobra jisteni (smice, hroty, hodiny). Je mnoho cest, ktere si zaslouzi dojistit (jsou objektivne nebezpecne), ale taky hromada, ktera je mozna zajistit smycema. Myslim, ze by se tim taky predeslo nekterym pokusum a nazorum na dojisteni cest, ktere je doopravdy u velke vetsiny cest zbytecne. Co na to říkáte? CO na to říkají naši autoři průvodců?
Juraj Repčík,Robo Štefko a dievčatá ze Slovenska práskají v Ceuse.Juraj už dal tři 8a na OS,Robo 7c PP.Dnes se přesunuli do Saint Legere a tak se teším na další SMSku.Příští týden pošlu nejaký fota.
Po prázdninové přestávce bude opět od 9.září zahájen provoz Boulder centra v Brně Po-So 16-20,30 hod
P.S. hledáme pro Boulder centrum 2 zájemce o náhradní civilní službu, 1.nástup podzim 2002, 2.nástup duben 2003. Podmínka trvalý pobyt Brno-město. Kontakt pro zájemce podhorska@cesa.vutbr.cz nebo jan.smolik@seznam.cz
A mám tu další novinku: Dvacetitříletý Markus Hoppe dal v Ceuse cestu Biographie za 8c+. Mimo to tam ještě přelez Chronique de la haine ordinaire za 8c. Nepíšu to proto, že by to byl snad můj brácha :), ale proto že Ceuse je super oblast, Biografie bombastická cesta, a hlavně jsem si to přečet na 8a.nu.
POZOR,POZOR.V pátek 6.9.02 v 16 hodin bude slavnostně zahájen provoz Hořické horolezecké stěny.Stěna není žádná "chudinka",ale pořádnej macek (315m2,24m šířka,10,5 m výška).Najdete ji v nové tělocvičně Hořického Gymnázia v Hořicích v Podkrkonoší (mezi Jičínem a Hradcem Králové) a to blízko u nádraží.Všichni jste srdečně zváni!Na zahájení si vezměte rovnou matroš ať se stěna pěkně oklouže a zaběhne.
Rakouský boulderer Bernd Zanderl přelezl 9. srpna 2002 boulder který nazval Viva la evolution a klasifikoval ho jako těžké 8c. Problém se nachází v nadmořské výšce 2300 m v oblasti Alm vicino v blízkosti obce Flirsch v rakouských Tyrolích. Bernd Z. tvrdi že boulder je těžší než Dreamtime 8c v Crescianu který jako jediný zopakoval po Fredu Nicolovi. To znamená že společně se sitstartem boulderu Black eagle (jižní afrika) taktéž 8c od F. Nicola je žhavým kandidátem na nejtěžší boulder světa.
30.8.2002 vznikla od dvojky Radek Lienerth a Tomáš Lenc nová cesta v SV stěně Žehličky v masívu Pzo. Gemeli.
Jmenuje se Nejistá sezóna a klasifikace podle nákresu. Volné přelezení je možné, ale zejména ve třetí délce značně problematické. Ve čtvrté zabránilo volnému přelezu mokré místo.
Je to docela fun. Na sestupu jsme si zaběhali v kamené lavince a i jiné veselosti, ale víc bude v článku v Montaně, kde budou
Dne 31.8.2002 jsme byli svědky „grounderu“ s šťastným koncem v Srbsku. Okolo poledne ležíme v milosrdném stínu a pozorujeme dvojici ( lezec a lezkyně ), jak nastupují do cesty „Pletánkův dárek dětem“. Shodou okolností jsme jí před pauzou s kamarádem a přítelkyní lezli všichni cvičně na prvního. Tato cesta je v podstatě přejištěná, borháky po 2,5 metrech, ale často lezená a tudíž notně klouzavá.
Lezec nastoupil do cesty, cvakl první borhák, na ten dosáhnete pomalu ze země, postoupi
Ten, kdo zná Kozelku, zná jistě i Březovou věž a její hladkou spodní stěnku. V ní vede cesta „Soumrak klasiků“ za 9- od Pavla Mentlíka, pravděpodobně nejtěžší kousek oblasti. Původním cílem prvovýstupce bylo protažení doprava stěnkou ke slaňáku z „Cesty pro Kočku“, k čemuž nakonec z nějakého důvodu nedošlo. Snad nebude nikomu vadit, že jsem se toho ujal a jednoho veekendu jsem osadil s Johnem borhák v linii ke „Kočce“. Vše vrtáno z háčků p
V dnešním dílu o oblastech skalního lezení v Čechách se můžete dozvědět něco o Horních skalách.
Horní skály, zvané též Obrvegry, tvoří skupinou sedmi skalních věží. Jsou příkladem cenomanských pískovců, v nichž se vedle základního křemencového tmelu vyskytují i žíly, tmelené vápencem. Skály jsou pro svou velkou členitost a pevnost oblíbeným cílem horolezců a na jejich vrcholy vedou cesty až VII. stupně obtížnosti. Věže tvoří řadu od jihovýchodu k severozápadu. Jsou součástí CHKO Lužické hory.
Přístup: Z Rynoltic (železniční stanice) po žluté značce přes Černou Louž na Horní Sedlo (5 km) a 200 m po zelené značce k Horním skalám. Z Hrádku nad Nisou (žel. stanice) po silnici přes Dolní Sedlo na Horní Sedlo (6 km) a vpravo po zelené značce ke skalám.
Táboření: Kemp v Černé Louži, hotel tamtéž
Literatura: Pískovcové skály v Čechách, Severní Čechy, Vladimír Slouka a kol., Olympia Praha 1980, http://goofy.oalib.cz/skaly/
na jejich vrcholy vedou cesty až VII. stupně obtížnosti. no to je mi ale informacička. třeba to tam straší na fungl novejch informačních tabulích od phare. mám pocit, že nejvyšší dosažený stupeň obtížnosti je někde okolo IX sšso (speciální špekova stupnice obtížnosti), teda né snad, že by ty cesty někdo přelejzal, ale jsou tam.
ubytování: hrádeckej oddíl měl na horním sedle chalupu, ale co s ní je, to nevím, stejně tak nevím, kam se poděl hrádeckej oddíl. spaní v lese není zatím nijak postihováno, ale prosímprosím, nerozdělávejte ohně, zejména pak pod nástupem normálky na Gahlerstein.
jinak kousek vedle je oblast Kaisertal(na mapě též značeno Krásný důl, která je ráj romantiků a milovníků spár a podivnejch rajbasů. Spousta věží nebyla nikdy v žádném tištěném průvodci popsána (např. zarostlá věž, zarostlá stěna, milenci, stoupa, kostka apod.)
Aspoň před 10 lety tam byly pěkný pamětní desky, myslim, že se ta věž jmenuje Smrtka. Kolují příhody, kam je nejlepší běžet pro dveře. Přepadová cesta na Dvojče je dobrá na potrápení děvčat. Večer budou vděčná a přítulná. Špek jednu z těch IX po sobě vytloukl, že prý kruhy byly moc blízko. Jinak parádní oblast pro neegoistické romantiky posazená v super přírodě. Přepisovat informace z nějaké mapy a encyklopedie mi přijde zbytečné. Neuděláte někdo info, popřípadě odkaz na nového průvodce? Kde je nej.. hospoda?
Zapsal: David Chudoba, 11:27:01 06.09.2002
no právě
Kdybychm o novém průvodci věděli, tak z něj čerpáme a odkaz na něj dáme. Pokud existuje, rád jej zakoupím.
Informace nejsou z map ani encyklopedií, jsou vždy z průvodců, bohužel, někdy hodně starých, ale kdo ví, zda někdy budou nové...
Zapsal: Maty, 11:34:16 06.09.2002
Díky
Dlouho jsem tam nebyl. Až budu hledat klid a trochu klasiky, tak tam třeba ze Zachardou zajedeme. A taky na Havrana, ten byl docela vysokej.
Zapsal: Bída, 12:41:37 06.09.2002
HO Hrádek nad Nisou
Chata HO Hrádek N. Nisou na H. Sedle je v provozu, kontakt na správce: 777/002 170 nebo 606/938 595.
A že se občas padá, to jó, sám jsem jednoho sólíčkáře nes´ (normálka na Libereckou, fakt hnusnej dopad), jen ne na dveřích, ty ve vrtulníku nemaj´.
Zapsal: Honza T., 06:37:03 24.09.2002
Popovka
Kousek od Obrvégrů je Popova skála, která není v pískovcovém průvoci ze 70 let, přestože tam pár i pěkných cest je. Nemáte někdo nějakou informaci o zdejších cestách?
milá paní Křivánková, ke změně skutečně došlo. bohužel. tak, že už do turistické chaty, kterou máte v nájmu, nechodíme, a nikomu neradíme tam chodit. to, že barák žije z podstaty, to je jedna věc, jiná věc se podměrečné pivo, maličké porce, špína v kuchyni, systematické chyby při sčítání atd. též díky venkovním diskotékám německých škol v přírodě jste "velmi" v oblibě.
Zapsal: Lukas B., 11:16:06 10.08.2005
průvodce
http://www.horydoly.cz /files/oberweg.pdf
bez tý mezery
Zapsal: , 13:58:30 24.06.2006
Změna
Dovolím si odporovat, do Chaty Polesí jezdím už nějaký ten pátek a za paní Křivánkové došlo k podstatnému zlepšení vybavení chaty. A naprosto nesouhlasím s tím, co napsal Lukas B. Kuchyň je dobrá, porce, že je kolikrát nesním... Nemá cenu všechno vypisovat, každý by se měl přesvědčit sám. ;o)
Zapsal: Ainny, 22:02:41 15.03.2007
Pro Lucase
Lucasi, Lucasi. Tvůj článek neobjektivitou a zlostí až přetéká a proč si dovolím to tvrdit? Protože chatu Polesí znám velmi dobře. Jistě maličkosti se vždy najdou a všude, ale klady mnohonásobně převyšují. Čisto, pořádek, strava výborná, personál milý a ochotný (ostatně i Ty jsi napsal milá, bez uvozovek, taže jsi to i v tom smyslu milá myslel. A pak najednou tolik nepravd a pomluv. Byl jsi vůbec v té chatě? Rád bych se s Tebou setkal. Nepotkáváme se náhodou velmi často někde v okolí? Nejsi někdo, komu vadí
Zapsal: Divad, 10:35:21 16.03.2007
Pro Lucase
Lucasi, že Ty jsi byl v Rusku, že radíš do chaty nejezdit. Já naopak každému radím do chaty Polesí jezdit a že nejsem sám viz články na www.temere com. Osobně se domnívám, že právě dobrá pověst chaty někomu velmi vadí a proto takto hanlivě píše. Opak Tvého tvrzení jepravdou!!! A že tam už Ty nepůjdeš je jen dobře. O takové hosty jistě chata nestojí.
Zapsal: Nemo, 10:40:23 16.03.2007
Průvodce a chata
Nazdar lidi já jen žasnu co tu čtu.Tak za prvé tu máme ve skalách i X. a víc. Chata horolezců na Horním Sedle funguje a myslím si dobře.Stejně jako Klub horolezců Hradek nad Nisou.Průvodce na celou oblast našich skal Havrana ,Křížan a Ještědu je na světě tké!Víc informací na www.klubhorolezcuhradek.cz A hospody soudit nebudu ale žádná dobrá tu není(to znám tu žiju né) Vše je pro Pražáky nebo Němce(není to to samé? no nic)Ale lezení supr.Tak ahoj Radek Černický
vono to tady nějak blbne, občas nějakej komentář zmizí, a tak ta diskuse vypadá bez některých neviditelných příspěvků poněkud divně.
1. hrádecký oddíl funguje a chalupa taky. ale bejval jeden čas trošku neviditelnej, aspoň teda webově neviditelnej. ale průvodčíka vydali pěknýho. chalupu mají taky pěknou.
2. diskuse vo hospodách - v některém prehistorickém pamfletku o přilehlých hvozdech jsem doporučoval hospody v okolí (nebo to snad byl jeden ze záhadně zmizelejch komentářů? neptal se tady někdo do který hospody zajít zapařit, kde zalízt chrápat do roští?) od doporučování hospod na webu jsem se rozhodl upustit, páč se to u hospod "nájemních" (kterejch je v sudetlandu valná většina) docela rychle mění, a nejedno příjemné místo je zhusta ze dne na den proměněno v protivné místo s malátnou či chamtivou obsluhou (a občas i naopak, samosebou). no a taky se názor na hospodu může lišit člověk vod člověka.
no a pak ty nešťastný diskutující druhý, třetí a čtvrtý ega mnohočetně rozštěpenejch vosobností (nebo snad blíženci s podivuhodně podobnými manýrami rázu stylisticko-gramatického. no nic, rozhodně neprovozuju hospodu, kde bych potrefenejm nějak konkuroval, takže je mi pověst podniku provozovaného pani Křivánkovou kdesi u prvoúst (viz učebnice přírodopisu pro základní školu). v podstatě to považuju za roztomile zábavný, jak tam přilákaji bandu túristů, kteří pak po večeři, chuďátka hladová, utíkají za jídlem do ostatních hospod a nakonec se podivují, za co všechno a kolik se v touristbaude platí. ale opakuju, je mi to u prvoúst (teda pokud není vlahý večer zpestřen venkovní diskotékou školy v přírodě) a hlasuju nohama - to znamená, že tam nechodím, páč si pro svou v potu tváře získanou mzdu dovedu představit uplatnění výrazně lepší.
Zapsal: Lukas B., 16:18:07 09.05.2007
Horní Skály
Ubytování v Kempu Černá Louže již v provozu. Příjemné ceny, nově po rekonstrukci, kiosek, mnoho lezeckých tras v okolí (1-5 km)
ubytovani-liberecko.cz
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