Pokusili jsme se udělat svým způsobem metodické minidílko, nekladoucí si za cíl být kompletní příručkou, ale pojednat o oblastech ve kterých vidíme , při našem pohybu po skalách a horách, nedostatky nebo zdroje úrazů.
Budeme Vám na LEZCI předkládat původní fotoseriál, zabývající se jednotlivými tématy ve kterých spatřujeme chyby a která jsou snad i pro veřejnost aktuální.
Jsme si vědomi toho, že na hodně otázek týkajících se bezpečnosti neexistuje jednoznačná odpověď a konečné řešení. To co se zde objeví, by proto měla být doporučená teorie podpořená našimi praktickými zkušenostmi.
LEZENÍ - TOPE ROPE
Tímto způsobem se rozumí lezení s horním jištěním. Lano je vedeno ve vratným bodem na vrchu skály nebo cesty a jistič stojí na zemi. Lezení způsobem TR, nebo jak se hezky česky říká „na rybáře“ či „rybu“ , je za dodržení pravidel zřejmě nejbezpečnější způsob lezení. Přesto je zdrojem mnoha úrazů .
Klíč k bezpečnému lezení TR je vratný bod. Jedná se vlastně ( na rozdíl od výstupu odspoda s postupovým jištěním) o často jediné jištění v cestě a proto je nutné, aby jeho spolehlivost byla maximální. Informace o problematice lezení s horním jištěním a popis některých nehod naleznete v knize: SCHUBERT. P. Bezpečnost a riziko na skále, sněhu a ledu. Praha: KLETR Plzeň a freytag & berndt Praha, 1997. str. 119 – 135.Ale i s ním si trochu zapolemizujeme.
1. DVA BODY, ŘETĚZ
- Ideální varianta vratného bodu. Možnost selhání obou bodů je minimální.
- Do kruhu vkládáme karabinu s pojistkou zámku. Dvě karabiny sníží ohyb lana a tím zmenší jeho opotřebení
- Nebezpečí: Povolené matky nýtů, špatně osazené borháky či nýty, osazení do volných bloků. Nutnost vizuelní kontroly.
- Místo karabiny lze použít dvě protisměrně zapnuté expresky, zámky se nesmí dotýkat skály.
- Pozor ! Karabiny použité ve vratném bodu jsou probrušovány lanem. Je dobré používat na toto zvlášť vyčleněné karabiny .Časem u nich klesá nosnost (probroušený ohyb ).
2. DVA BODY, SMYČKA
- Pokud nejsou body spojené řetězem, nahradíme jej smyčkou s normovanou pevností.
- Zde zobrazený způsob (překřížená smyce) zatěžuje stejně oba jistící body
- Karabiny musí být s pojistkou zámku.
- Vratná karabina je vložena do překřížení smyčky tak, aby zůstala ve smyčce i po selhání jednoho jistícího bodu (stejná technika jako na štandech). Uzel na delším pramenu smyčky sníží délku propadu karabiny na delším konci smyce při selhání jednoho bodu.
- Do smyčky je opět možné vložit dvě zámkové karabiny nebo dvě expresky protisměrně, pro menší opotřebení lana
3. NÝT, BORHÁK - DVĚ KARABINY
- Použití pouze jednoho kotvícího bodu, již není zcela bezpečné. Selhání bodu bude fatální. Proto doporučujeme v tomto případě ponechat na úseku lana, které vede k jističovi cvaknuté poslední postupové jištění jako zálohu.
- Pozor! U skalní skoby neurčíme nosnost - pro tento případ a použití smrtelně nebezpečné!
- Do borháku nebo nýtu je vhodné vložit dvě karabiny s pojistkou za sebou. Lano se méně dře o skálu než s jednou karabinou. Naopak je-li vratným bodem kruh (leží na skále na plocho) je výhodnější pouze jedna karabina s pojistkou nebo dvě vedle sebe.
- Opět provést kontrolu osazení nýtu , bórku
- Uživatelsky jednodušší variantou vratného bodu je speciální skoba navržená sekcí DAV - tzv. dvojitý prasečí ocásek se kterou se , ale na českých skalách příliš nesetkáte. Ale i ta je vrtaná jen do jedné díry a proto pozor!
4. NÝT, BORHÁK - DVĚ EXPRESKY
- Tato varianta je mezi skalkaři asi nejpoužívanější.
- Lano není tak chráněno od tření o skálu
- Dvě expresky zacvaknuté zámky proti sobě lze považovat za poměrně bezpečné, ale upřednostňujeme použití zámkových karabin.
- Časté použití dvou expresek, jako vratného bodu vede totiž k jejich značnému opotřebovávání a tedy i snižování jejich životnosti
- Prošoupané expresky nelze doporučit k dalšímu použití při postupovém jištění.
- Další nevýhodou tohoto způsobu je zaplnění velkého prostoru v borháku, což může působit problémy při rušení vratného bodu lezcem – není se kam cvaknout a kudy protáhnout lano na slanění
5. NÝT, BORHÁK - JEDNA EXPRESKA
- Velmi nebezpečná varianta vratného bodu, bohužel často používaná.
- Hrozí nebezpečí vycvaknutí vratného bodu lezcem z nepozornosti. Může tak učinit automaticky, když si splete vratný bod s jištěním postupovým.
- Nebezpečí zatížení karabiny s otevřeným zámkem – při rychlém spouštění dochází chvěním karabiny k otvírání zámku (ne u drátových zámků). Nebo opřením zámku o skalní výstupek
- Opotřebení karabiny i lana v expresce je ještě větší než při použití dvou expresek.
- Lano se při přehození přes zámek může samo vycvaknout.
- Při otočení expresky kolem bórku se může horní karabina vycvaknout.
- Toto platí i v případě, že jsou v borháku cvaknuty dvě expresky stejným směrem
6. LANO VEDENÉ PŘÍMO BORHÁKEM
- Také velmi často používáno.Z hlediska bezpečnosti obdoba situace 3 a 4, ale považujeme ji za nevhodnou.
- Lano protažené přímo borhákem nebo jinou lepenou skobou, tuto probrušuje a tak zkracuje její životnost.
- Pro takovéto použití jsou určeny například výše zmíněné „prasečí ocásky“
- Většinou malý průměr drátu borháku (pod10 mm) způsobuje nepřiměřené zatěžování lana ohybem a jeho větší opotřebení.
- Žádná tkaná smyce nevydrží tepelně- tlakové zatížení, vznikající při spouštění v místě styku smyčky s pohybujícím se lanem.
- Obecně, by v lezecké praxi nemělo docházet ke styku pohybujících se tzv. měkkých částí výstroje (software) – lana, smyčky, popruhy. Vždy je oddělte spojkou - karabinou.
Presne stejnou vyhradu mam i ja proti prasecim ocaskum.
Vyborne je i upozorneni na poskozovani vratnych bodu vydiranim lanem. Je to takovy rozsireny lezecky vandalismus. Vysvetloval jsem to ruznym partickam snad stokrat. Kdo neosazoval vratne body neuveri jak rychle dokaze hlavne spousteni znicit drahe a pracne osazene borhaky a krouzky na retezech. Jde hlavne o lenost prevazat se. Pokud cestu nacvicujete neni problem cvaknout expresky nebo sroubovacky (na pisku vzdy s dostatecne dlouhou smyci!!! nebo standuj na vrchu!!!) a posledni lezec proste zastanduje, protahne lano vratnym bodem a slani! Jde o zakladni zasadu setrnosti a ohleduplnosti. Prosim vsechny ctenare: Uvazujte a sirte osvetu.
Dík za super zpracovanej a názornej článeček. Snad to zkoukne maximum začínajících lezců a bude míň zbytečnejch "podlah" při TR jištění.
Jen tak dál, pašáci!!!
Je moc dobře že se tu něco takového objevilo. Zrovna tenhle víkend jsme potkali borce na Suškách jak vesele brousili kruh lanem a neobtěžovali se dat presku ani karabinu a to ani po tom co jsme je na to upozornili.
Zapsal: MaryLou, 10:41:33 06.08.2002
RE: Melloun
Asi to tak trochu vypovídá o většinovém přístupu k lezení samotnému.
Pridavam se k blahoprani fakt super clanek. Pokud autori dovoli rad bych si ho vytisknul a pouzival pri vycviku nasim mladezniku. Vrcholne me totiz nastvali, kdyz prave zrusili moji variantu dvou expresek (zamkove karabiny nemely u sebe ty jsem mel ja na jinem standu) a dali to prave primo do borhaku.
Povoleni chci proto, ze bych to nestikl primo, ale po upravach tykajicich se formatovani. Tj. prevod do dokumentu. Ala *.doc ci *.pdf.
Myslím si že začátek metodického fotoseriálu byl zvolen nejvhodnějším směrem. Asi vetšina nováčků leze "na rybu", takže čím dříve se dozvědí jak je to správně, tím lépe, navíc v době kdy se lezení začíná věnovat stále větší množství lidí.
Pochybuju že někdo koho začne lezení zajímat si koupí knížky (třeba Schuberta) nastuduje to počká si až jednou za roku bude horoškola a do té doby něž udělá závěrečné testy a stane se členem ČHS bude chodit lézt s instruktorem jednou za měsíc. Kdo si to myslí ať se probudí. A čím více zdrojů bude, kde se tyto informace budou moci dozvědět, tím lépe.
Ještě se zeptám. Proč nemůže na lezci vzniknou extra rubrika "metodika". Tomu aby se tento článek nečetl jen tento týden by to jistě pomohlo.
Jinak souhlasím článeček je super zpracován jednoduše, jasně, názorně, prostě pochopí to každý.
Ještě bych upzornil že na překližce platí to samé kde je varianta jedna expreska hojně používaná a taktéž nebezpečná.
Mám jen jednu formální připomínku, vůbec se netýká obsahu, ten je OK (připojiji se ke chvále), ale týká se významu slov v českém jazyce. Nezdá se mi moc šikovné používat výraz "zámková karabina" pro "karabinu s pojistkou" (je to v odstavci 4.Dvě expresky; pak se to ještě objevilo v jednom z komentářů). Když se kohokoliv z českých lezců zeptáte, jak se nazývá ta odklápěcí páčka na karabině, každý vám řekne, že zámek. Takže každá karabina má zámek, čili je vlastně zámková. Ovšem pokud je na zámku přidělán ten šroub, že ano, tak ten se samotný nazývá pojistka. Tedy pak je to karabina s pojistkou zámku.
Zkrátka, když se jednotlivé malé části karabiny nějak jmenují, měl by název pro celek být v logické souvislosti s jednotlivými názvy těch malých částí.
Prosím tedy autory, zda by to v příštích dílech nevzali v potaz, ikdyž uznávám, že je to drobnost.
Přeji hodně trpělivosti s tvorbou fotoseriálu na Lezci, chvályhodná činnost!
1. Tome, Ty abys nezarejpal :-) No, ale fakt, lidi, von má pravdu.
2. Ten Atamanův návrh má logiku. Založení ubriky by vyřešilo to co jsem tady zkoušel podsouvat (co vy na to LEZCI? teda HoPe, nebo kdo?)
Čtu si to se zpožděním, byli jsme lézt ve Francošce. Na článek jsem se těšil a vidím, že nemá to chybu.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 08:57:37 11.08.2002
rada
VIEM ZE SA TO TU NEHODI; ALE AJ TAK: SOM ZO SLOVENSKA NA VYLETE V NEMCECKU NO A 19 SA PRESUVAM DO PRAHY: A AKO SA VRAVI BYT V PRAHE A NEVIDIET BOULDERBAR? takze prosim ludia dajte mi niekdo addresu alebo niejako blizsie poraddte kde to je...dik vopred
Diky za poznámky k formálnim nedostatkům textu. Požadavek na správnou a sjednocenou terminologii je zcela oprávněný. Jsme si vědomi, že např. výraz expreska se dnes používá pro celý set karabiny + expresní spojka, ale snad tento slang nezpůsobí nepochopení textu. Snažíme se jej dělat co nejstručnější.
Taky díky za podporu a doufám, že brzy zkompletujeme další díl. Jestli teda vůbec někdy přestane pršet.Skol
Zapsal: Bolek, 11:13:36 12.08.2002
Bolku
Az to bude mit alespon, 15 dilu, tak si na mne vzpomen. Vydat to v tistene podobe by nebylo od veci, rad vypomuzu...
Jo jo, je to super článek, snad se z něj lidi poučí. Mám pro Vás další námět, co třeba něco o tom, jak se chovat na skalách, jak nelozit lidem do cest, jak být ohleduplný k jiným lezcům, kteří jsou už ve stěně a tak, třeba by se někdo chytil za nos. Myslím že takových případů je spousta.
Zapsal: Johny, 08:19:46 21.08.2002
Re: Kladku ne
Souhlas. Jak vypadaj zbytky kladek, se každej může podívat na Weissensteinu v Juře. Naopak svinský vocasy to je koncert. Více jich i na sendstounu.
BH aus Unterwassersudetenland,
Papouš, Ústí pod Labem
Mam dotaz. Jak poznam, ze je praseci ocasek dvojity? Kdyz opominu vyse zminovane opotrebovani a tak z bezpecnostniho hlediska je jisteni top rope v prasecim ocasku prijatelne? Ja se toho vzdycky bal. Slanovani ano, to je lano zatizene, ale jisteni mi prislo trochu divoke.
Zacal jsem lezt na skalkach a nekdy mam Top Rope takto: strom - smyce - karabina - dynamicke lano 9 mm (asi 6 metru) - karabina - klasicke lano 10 mm. Zkusenejsi pritelkyne tvrdi, ze to 9mm lano je OK. Nejsem si tim jisty. Co vy na to?
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Pokusili jsme se udělat svým způsobem metodické minidílko, nekladoucí si za cíl být kompletní příručkou, ale pojednat o oblastech ve kterých vidíme , při našem pohybu po skalách a horách, nedostatky nebo zdroje úrazů.
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- Pozor! U skalní skoby neurčíme nosnost - pro tento případ a použití smrtelně nebezpečné!
4. NÝT, BORHÁK - DVĚ EXPRESKY
- Tato varianta je mezi skalkaři asi nejpoužívanější.
5. NÝT, BORHÁK - JEDNA EXPRESKA
- Velmi nebezpečná varianta vratného bodu, bohužel často používaná.
- Hrozí nebezpečí vycvaknutí vratného bodu lezcem z nepozornosti. Může tak učinit automaticky, když si splete vratný bod s jištěním postupovým.
6. LANO VEDENÉ PŘÍMO BORHÁKEM
- Také velmi často používáno.Z hlediska bezpečnosti obdoba situace 3 a 4, ale považujeme ji za nevhodnou.
7. LANO VEDENÉ SMYČKOU
- Smrtelně nebezpečná varianta!!!
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