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Kategorie:
 Talung expedition
Expedice Talung se po vice nez mesicnim pusobebni ve vychodnim Nepalu vratila zp[et do KTM. Od vedouciho expedice Martina Otty vam tedy muzu predlozit exkluzivni zpravodajstvi.
Komentáře (99)06.11.2002... celý článek
 Lezení v Sasku
Oblast, ve které jsem málem přišel o život (viz několik dílů zpět), byla domovským hřištěm Bernda Arnolda. Výchozím místem k většině jejích věží je městečko Hohenstein, kde Arnold žil a snad, nevím, stále žije. Nikam to není dále než půlhodinka chůze. Navíc po rovince a z kopce. Cesta zpět je v obráceném gardu. Arnold tu měl několik tréninkových stěn, kde už před léty po lehkém výklusu bouldroval a připravoval se tak na své prásky. Ná
Komentáře (14)05.11.2002... celý článek
 Závod MČR v lezení vyhrál T. Mrázek a S. Rajfová
Zkušený matador lezeckých závodů světového poháru Tomáš Mrázek a mladičká teprve třináctiletá Silvie Rajfová zvítězili na letošním Mistrovství České republiky v lezení na obtížnost. Na dvoudenním mistrovství v lezení na umělé stěně v pražské Ruzyni skončili dnes (3.11. 2002) dále v mužích druhý Jakub Hlaváček, třetí Pavel Solanský, čtvrtý Martin Fojtík a pátý Rosťa Štefánek. V ženách byla druhá Věra Kotasová, třetí Tereza Kysilková,
Komentáře (61)03.11.2002... celý článek
 Teng Kang Poche
Uspesne vas vsechny zdravim jiz dnes z KTM! Do Lukly jsme dorazili uz vcera vecer a dnes se nam zadarilo dostat odpoledne do letadla, nebylo zatazeno a tak ted uz sedim s dobrym stejkem v zaludku v KTM a uzivam blazenosti technickeho pokroku.
Komentáře (17)02.11.2002... celý článek
 Maďarsko
Jestli se chystáte do Budapešti na služební cestu či tam chcete trávit soukromý čas nebo je to jen tranzit s několikahodinovou přestávkou, nezapomeňte si vzít lezečky a sedák. I v tak placaté zemi, jako je Maďarsko, je možno najít slušné možnosti k pěknému lezení. V samotné Budapešti je několik příležitostí k lezení. Z nich jsem prozkoumal dvě a jednu z nich mohu vřele doporučit.
Komentáře (1)01.11.2002... celý článek
 Metodické ústřižky IV.
V tomto díle se chceme zabývat způsoby navázání na kombinaci prsního a sedacího úvazku.Dále jen kombinovaný úvazek .Popisujeme jen několik nám nejbližších a nejběžnějších metod. Jsou ale známé i jiné variace.
Komentáře (55)31.10.2002... celý článek
 Fontainebleau
O víkendu jsem se vrátil z Fontainebleau a dozvěděl se,že se do mne pustil jakýsi David Chudoba. Pár lidí mi říkalo at se na něj vykašlu, přesto musím reagovat.
Komentáře (61)30.10.2002... celý článek
 INTERVIJUK
Autentický přepis nahrávky jednoho lezeckého rozhovoru na jedné nejmenované lezecké akci v neznámé lezecké hospodě v blíže neurčenou noční hodinu. Asi 30% rozhovoru, neartikulované výkřiky jsou vynechány.
Komentáře (356)29.10.2002... celý článek
 Bouldering v Jizerkách
Pro příznivce boulderingu a Jizerek máme tip na jeden z nejlepších a nejpřevislejších Jizerských boulderbloků.
Komentáře (204)25.10.2002... celý článek
 LUMIGNANO
Tato českými lezci málo navštěvovaná oblast leží 20 km jižně od Vicenzy u stejnojmenné obce. Kromě víkendu je ve skalách klid, nejezdí sem Němci a obyvatelstvo je zde velice příjemné, stejně jako barman v baru Phantasy, který lze označit za lezeckou hospodu.
Komentáře (6)25.10.2002... celý článek
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Talung expedition

back in KTM

Expedice Talung se po vice nez mesicnim pusobebni ve vychodnim Nepalu vratila zp[et do KTM. Od vedouciho expedice Martina Otty vam tedy muzu predlozit exkluzivni zpravodajstvi.

Mensi problemy provazely odjezd expedice do oblasti Kanchenjungy, kdy misto letadla probehl autobus a tak od 19.9. do 6.10. probihaly taskarice na ceste do BC.


Stejne problemy postihly letos vsechny expedice do Nepalskeho Himalaje a spolecnym jmenovatelem byl snih a vitr. V oblasti take pusobila Japonska expedice a jejich vystupovy smer zvolen za aklimatizacni. Vasek Patek a Martin Otta naslapli v novem snehu velmi peknou stopu az do 6.500 m.

Alenka Cepelkovic a Petr Kolouch vsak dali primo prednost ostremu pokusu na severnim piliri, ale velke mnozstvi noveho snehu a prekvapive tezkych kombinovanych partii je vratily zpet.

Ve zbyvajicim case se Vasek, Alena a Martin pokusili o prvovystup pravym pilirem steny a to kam se dostali si muzete prohlednout na fotce. V nestabilnich snehovych podminkach a pres silny vitr vyklapali az do 6.600 m, kde byly problemy temer vyreseny, je zastavila mensi vetrna smrst a navic bylo potreba sestoupit, kvuli odchodu z BC. Lezeni bylo sneho ledoveho charakteru s useky az k 70 stupnum.


Palo Jackovic, Petr Kolouch a Tibor Hromadka se pokusili dokoncit Japonsky smer. Palo a Tibor se vzhledem k zacinajicim omrzlinam a zaludecnim problemum rozhodli pro navrat. Petr Kolouch pak v zaverecnem solovystupu posledni den, 24.10. dosahl vrchol a sestoupil zpet do BC.

Ted uz si vsichni leci sve modre palce na nohou {Alca a Martin], davaji stejky a prej nechtej az do konce zivota videt Dhal Bhat.


Resume: Talung Czech and Slovak expedition 2002
leader: Martin Otta
members: A. Cepelkova, V. Patek, T. Hromadka, P. Jackovic, J. Skokan, P. Kolouch
First ascent in W face, vpravo od Slovinske cesty, klasifikace AD+, sklon do 50 stupnu

Z KTM 4.11. Zoban

Zoban   [úpravy] 08:49 06.11.2002Tisk 

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Nový komentář 

 Slovensky clanok
Cital som teray aj slovensky prispevok na www.jamesak.sk a tam neboli spominani Jackovic a Skokan, Kolouch ale Duce a Hojger. Islo o dve expedicie? Alebo ako to vlastne je kto vsetko tam bol?
Zapsal: Jano, 12:19:24 08.11.2002
 
islo o dve rozne expedicie
Zapsal: a., 15:00:23 08.11.2002
 Hoooj Zobco!!!!!!
Tak konecne vidim jak to tam vypada. Pastorek rikal samou chvalu. Tak vitej mezi normalni (teplomilne) lidi. Zdarec Lukas
Pokud nevis kdo tak pastorek napovi...
Zapsal: Lukas, 17:14:26 08.11.2002
 Alene
Gratuluji k vystupu i stastnemu navratu a doufam, ze na zimnim RHM bude nejaka pekna motivacni prednaska!

Lenka K.
Zapsal: Lenka K., 11:13:16 09.11.2002
 Gratulace
Aleno, moc Ti gratulujeme, jseš opravdu dobrá. Zatím čau, ještě se ozveme!
Čau Leona,Zdeněk a děti.
Zapsal: Aleně, 10:58:27 17.11.2002
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