Expedice Talung se po vice nez mesicnim pusobebni ve vychodnim Nepalu vratila zp[et do KTM. Od vedouciho expedice Martina Otty vam tedy muzu predlozit exkluzivni zpravodajstvi.
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Uspesne vas vsechny zdravim jiz dnes z KTM! Do Lukly jsme dorazili uz vcera vecer a dnes se nam zadarilo dostat odpoledne do letadla, nebylo zatazeno a tak ted uz sedim s dobrym stejkem v zaludku v KTM a uzivam blazenosti technickeho pokroku.
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O víkendu jsem se vrátil z Fontainebleau a dozvěděl se,že se do mne pustil jakýsi David Chudoba. Pár lidí mi říkalo at se na něj vykašlu, přesto musím reagovat.
Autentický přepis nahrávky jednoho lezeckého rozhovoru na jedné nejmenované lezecké akci v neznámé lezecké hospodě v blíže neurčenou noční hodinu. Asi 30% rozhovoru, neartikulované výkřiky jsou vynechány.
Tato českými lezci málo navštěvovaná oblast leží 20 km jižně od Vicenzy u stejnojmenné obce. Kromě víkendu je ve skalách klid, nejezdí sem Němci a obyvatelstvo je zde velice příjemné, stejně jako barman v baru Phantasy, který lze označit za lezeckou hospodu.
Expedice Talung se po vice nez mesicnim pusobebni ve vychodnim Nepalu vratila zp[et do KTM. Od vedouciho expedice Martina Otty vam tedy muzu predlozit exkluzivni zpravodajstvi.
Mensi problemy provazely odjezd expedice do oblasti Kanchenjungy, kdy misto letadla probehl autobus a tak od 19.9. do 6.10. probihaly taskarice na ceste do BC.
Stejne problemy postihly letos vsechny expedice do Nepalskeho Himalaje a spolecnym jmenovatelem byl snih a vitr. V oblasti take pusobila Japonska expedice a jejich vystupovy smer zvolen za aklimatizacni. Vasek Patek a Martin Otta naslapli v novem snehu velmi peknou stopu az do 6.500 m.
Alenka Cepelkovic a Petr Kolouch vsak dali primo prednost ostremu pokusu na severnim piliri, ale velke mnozstvi noveho snehu a prekvapive tezkych kombinovanych partii je vratily zpet.
Ve zbyvajicim case se Vasek, Alena a Martin pokusili o prvovystup pravym pilirem steny a to kam se dostali si muzete prohlednout na fotce. V nestabilnich snehovych podminkach a pres silny vitr vyklapali az do 6.600 m, kde byly problemy temer vyreseny, je zastavila mensi vetrna smrst a navic bylo potreba sestoupit, kvuli odchodu z BC. Lezeni bylo sneho ledoveho charakteru s useky az k 70 stupnum.
Palo Jackovic, Petr Kolouch a Tibor Hromadka se pokusili dokoncit Japonsky smer. Palo a Tibor se vzhledem k zacinajicim omrzlinam a zaludecnim problemum rozhodli pro navrat. Petr Kolouch pak v zaverecnem solovystupu posledni den, 24.10. dosahl vrchol a sestoupil zpet do BC.
Ted uz si vsichni leci sve modre palce na nohou {Alca a Martin], davaji stejky a prej nechtej az do konce zivota videt Dhal Bhat.
Resume: Talung Czech and Slovak expedition 2002
leader: Martin Otta
members: A. Cepelkova, V. Patek, T. Hromadka, P. Jackovic, J. Skokan, P. Kolouch
First ascent in W face, vpravo od Slovinske cesty, klasifikace AD+, sklon do 50 stupnu
Cital som teray aj slovensky prispevok na www.jamesak.sk a tam neboli spominani Jackovic a Skokan, Kolouch ale Duce a Hojger. Islo o dve expedicie? Alebo ako to vlastne je kto vsetko tam bol?
Zapsal: Jano, 12:19:24 08.11.2002
islo o dve rozne expedicie
Zapsal: a., 15:00:23 08.11.2002
Hoooj Zobco!!!!!!
Tak konecne vidim jak to tam vypada. Pastorek rikal samou chvalu. Tak vitej mezi normalni (teplomilne) lidi. Zdarec Lukas
Pokud nevis kdo tak pastorek napovi...
Zapsal: Lukas, 17:14:26 08.11.2002
Alene
Gratuluji k vystupu i stastnemu navratu a doufam, ze na zimnim RHM bude nejaka pekna motivacni prednaska!
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