Jeden muj známý(Pavel)se zmínil,že jede na služební cestu na třidny do Badenu v Rakousku aprotože taky leze doufal,že bude mít čas na nějaké to lezení .Zeptal se mně jestli nechcijet s ním,prý nemusím platit cestu,samozřejmě jsem chtěl jet,kor když nevyšlaplánovaná cesta do Zillertalu.Hned jsme sedli k počítači a po chvilce jsme našli na 8cplus.at,pruvodce na skály v okolí Badenu:Helenental,Merkenstein,Modling a další.
Ahoj všici, právě jsem se vrátil ze Suchých skal. V sobotu si v klídku lezeme, když tu se z křoví vyloupnou dva poliši a v závěsu dva ochranáři a kde prý máme průkazy ČHS či jiné, a kdo že leze s maglajzem:)) Parkování na krajnici začali brát od shora potom...
Hore Zdar
Vzhledem k tomu že vyšla mapa Oblasti skalního lezení a vzhledem k tomu, že nám firma Žaket 60 map věnovala, abychom měli čím odměnit nejaktivnější přispěvatele Lezce, je nejvyšší čas se o této mapě něco dozvědět.
Byl, nebyl, objevil se znenadání jeden volný den, ve kterém se jinak normálně pracuje od nevidím do nevidím. Kam jet? Co takhle jednu z nepoznaných oblastí z nového vydání průvodce Vltavská žula? Po sedmém pivu bylo rozhodnuto. Jeli jsme do oblasti, kde vypukla vltavská horečka, na Starý Kamýk. Ono se v Povltaví lezlo již dříve, ale ta pravá éra přišla až s Algenou. Název jedné místní cesty „Toulání pod parou“ asi naznačuje, jak k tomu v roce 1988 pravděpodobně došlo. Záhy poté, během 90. let m
Tak jsme po zimě konečně vyrazili za více délkovým lezením někam trochu dál. Volba padla na Höllentall, oblast nacházející se jižně od St. Pöltenu. Sestava osazenstva jednotlivých vozů slibovala nejméně Bordel di Brennta. Já (Azbest), Martin Navrátil, David Bída Chudoba, Martin Ludrouský, John, Venca Fajfrlík, Tomáš Bednář, Jindra Zachariáš, Tomáš a Dáša Tůmojc, Šéďa a jeho kámoš Tom.
Píše se rok 2012 a táhne mi na čtyřicet. Letos na jaře tomu bude dvacet let, co jsem poprvé vyrazil lézt na pískovce. I letos jsem se těšil do Labáku, i když se to tam za posledních deset let dost změnilo.
Co se tedy v Labáku změnilo? Prakticky všechno. Za počátek všeho by se dalo považovat vydání nového průvodce v roce 1998. Přespolní lezci náhle zjistili, že v cestách se rapidně zvýšil počet kruhů a borháků. Ono se něco mezi pár znalci šuškalo už před rokem 1998, ale až teď nastal opra
Protože bouldering a obzvláště bouldering na Mlýnském vrchu je letos v módě, ihned po rachotě jsme se minulou středu nasoukali do Vlastovo Forda ve složení Já, Azbest, Martin a Vlasta a řítili se směrem na sever.
Jeden muj známý(Pavel)se zmínil,že jede na služební cestu na třidny do Badenu v Rakousku aprotože taky leze doufal,že bude mít čas na nějaké to lezení .Zeptal se mně jestli nechcijet s ním,prý nemusím platit cestu,samozřejmě jsem chtěl jet,kor když nevyšlaplánovaná cesta do Zillertalu.Hned jsme sedli k počítači a po chvilce jsme našli na 8cplus.at,pruvodce na skály v okolí Badenu:Helenental,Merkenstein,Modling a další.
Po celkem rychlé jízdě(z Prahy asi 3,5hodiny),jsme v Badenu a protože je odpoledne jedem do Bad Voslau kde se nachází Merkenstein,přesně podle plánku parkujeme a jdem ke skalám.Věděl jsem,že tu pusobil i Klem Loskot,tak očekávám dobrou oblast.Musím říct,že bouldry nesklamaly,je tu něco kolem 140bouldru v pevném vápenci,podobný Fr.juře,dírky,lišty a hlavně převisy a stropy a tedy spíše silové lezení.
Energy Rush 8A(travers)
Skalní bloky se nacházejí ve vysokém listnatém lese,takže se dá lézt i v tuto dobu i když těžší věci se lépe lezli brzo ráno.Merkenstein je výhradně pro bouldristy,nejvíce problemů je okolo 6B Fb-klasifikaci.Tedy,když jsme přišli do skal,byli tu nějací lezci od Grazu a právě zkoušeli Loskotuv Totem 8A,což je nádherný silový problem přes jednoprstovku a lišty.Další které mohu doporučit jsou:UgaAgaIga 6C+(užasný skok),Base jumper 6B+,Minas Morgul 7C(vytrvalostní travers,díry),Chalkchouse 7C+ (strop,tři pohyby) a další.Je tu i pár projektů.Pavel večer odjíždí do hotelu,zítra ho čeká práce,slíbí že přijede.Já ulehám pod jedním převisem.
Totem 8A
Další den bouldruji až do uplného vyčerpání,poznávám i některé vzdálenější kameny a také se jdu podívat na zříceninu hradu.Navečer přijede Pavel,ještě nějaké to focení a trocha lezení a jedeme zpět do Badenu do údolí Helenental,kde přespíme.V pátek nejprve vyšlapeme k jeskyni- Königshole,kde je asi 20 bouldrů do 7C,nejhezčí je Golden Gate Bridge 7B+,který vede 8metrovou klenbou dva metry nad zemí.
Konigshole 7A
Jinak v Helenentalu se nachází spousta stěn do 25metrů s cestami do 11-. No my už toho máme celkem dost,takže po pár cestách balíme a nabíráme směr Praha.Až se tedy budete potulovat ve Vídni či v okolí,zkuste místo Peilsteinu,Baden.
Kopia správičky z 8cplus.at, kde je v podstate výčet jednodňového posobenia M.Č. na Markensteine!! Nie len Rakúšania by sa mali z takých výkonov posadiť na prdel a zháňať najbližšiu predajňu surfov...
"Martin Cermak (Tschechien) wütet unter NÖ`s Topboulder
24.05.2002
Tja, so wie es ausschaut hat uns der tschechische Wunderboulderer Martin Cermak einen Besuch abgestattet. Dabei kletterte er am 22.05.2002 in Merkenstein folgende Boulder:
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