Adam Ondra: onsight Just Do It 8c+ ve Smith Rock

Adam Ondra si zapsal onsight cesty Just Do It za 8c+ ve Smith Rock v Oregonu. Na Instagramu k tomu píše, že tuto svého času nejtěžší cestu Ameriky z roku 1989 chtěl přelézt o té doby, co se o ní poprvé dozvěděl, když mu bylo 8 let.

Adam šel na onsight pokus po neúspěchu v cestě To Bolt or Not To Be" 8b+, což mu nedodávalo příliš sebedůvěry. Ale po jednom restdayi se cítil dobře i po psychické stránce a šel do toho:

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Just Do It 8c+ was just an incredible experience. I wanted to this route just so much since I first read the name of the route and its history (being 8 years old). Then I was finally at Smith, not really sure if I was ready for it or not. Failure on my onsight try on "To Bolt or Not To Be" 8b+ did not give me much confidence either. But after taking a restday, I felt good and I was psyched. The only concern was if the weather was suitable. It was cold (5 °C) and really windy. But I made a good warm up on the other side of the crag at Aggro Gully, climbing Aggro Monkey 8a and Bad Man 8b+ onsight and I moved up to the Monkey Face, where the route "Just Do It" is located. It was freaking windy, but I was hoping that down at the base it would be less windy than up in the pass from where it is really nice to check the route. I was trying to convince myself by seeing the no quickdraws moving in the lower bit (well, those quickdraws are in vertical wall so it is clear they were not moving so much). At base it was too obvious that it was freaking windy. But I just set off. Friction felt great, I felt strong but this relentless wind did not want stop. In every single restpoint I was trying to warm up my fingers, but my success was limited.  Getting higher and higher, the pressure grew, but on the very top it got eventually that hard that I could completely forget about everything, even the cold and I somehow made it to the top at the absolute limit. There was a nice crowd including Alan Watts who bolted this beauty back in 1989. Thanks for that and thanks for the encouragement. Stay tuned for the video. @blackdiamond @montura_official @lasportivagram @mytendon  Pic by @bernardo_gimenez

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Adamův zápis cesty Just Do It v databázi cest na Lezci:

Just Do It 5.14c

sth   [úpravy] 07:02 13.11.2018

Komentáře

     
...nové příspěvkyNový komentář 

 Onsight16:40:36 13.11.2018
Velka gratulace Adamovi, ale mozna by mel na svych cestach take vysvetlit amikum co znamena onsight. Minuly tyden jsem byl totiz v Red River Gorge svedkem toho ze typek jeden den nacvicil cestu, druhy den ji prelezl a vsichni se radovali ze to dal na onsight. Kdyz jsme jim zacali vysvetlovat ze onsight znamena neco jineho, zjistili jsme ze nikdo z nich ve skutecnosti nevi jak to je a fakt si mysleli ze jejich styl byl OS... toto presvedceni pak Adamovi i jinym dost ubira na skutecnem OS ktere predvedli :(
Sahodpovědět 
 Re: Onsight16:47:23 13.11.2018
Na jaké úrovni lezli (jakou klasu)? To se mi snad ani nechce věřit, že by to byli až takový nýmandi :D...
hulakodpovědět 
  Re: Onsight08:14:32 14.11.2018
V Americe (USA) i Kanadě občas člověk zažije různá překvapení...
tah-sha-tungaodpovědět 
   Re: Onsight09:41:57 14.11.2018
ty si este slovak? myslis, ze bratia cesi nepochopia nieco pisane po slovensky?
odpovědět 
    Re: Onsight09:57:38 14.11.2018
Aha, hej-Slovák sa ozval!
tah-sha-tungaodpovědět 
     Re: Onsight09:18:10 15.11.2018
takze slovencinu este ovladas, len sa hras na cecha aby si sa citil zapadnejsi? gratulujem.
odpovědět 
 Re: Onsight10:19:02 14.11.2018
tak to je spatne, ale po tejdnu to OS uz zase je.
Ladislav Alzheimerodpovědět 

 Je to démon12:12:09 14.11.2018
Gratulace, Adam je fakt démon. Parádní práce...
Mášaodpovědět 

 pecka23:04:07 14.11.2018
Velká gratulace!
aTomodpovědět