Sierra East Side Part Dva | Something Old, Something New... |
As summer is now winding down, we are all looking forward to cooler temps and hard sends. Indeed, some of us are already anticipating the coming bouldering season down in Bishop. But you don't have to wait until Fall to get strong, there is a wealth of summer areas here in the Sierra Eastside. Highlighed in this article are two starkly contrasting local bouldering areas. While these may not be the biggest, best, nor the easiest accessed, they do showcase the diversity which is to be found in the area.
The Bachar Boulders
The Bachars was an old stomping ground for many Valley climbers who ventured to the Eastside searching for adventure and virgin rock. John Bachar was perhaps the most prolific, or at least the biggest name to develop the area. The bouldering here is situated on a small cliff line with vertical to slightly ovehanging walls that suited the style of the time. The rock is volcanic tuff, simmilar to that of the Happys, but much more compact and solid, yielding crisp edges and seams. From 5 to 7 meters tall, and closely packed togeather, The lines here are conducive to circuit training. The landing here are as good as it gets- flat and sandy. The Bachars exemplify a time when crashpads didn't exist and bouldering was just good training.
Jeff 'zabit ten bilý mu'Sillcox confronts an unsuspecting arete.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Tall and proud, like it's name sake, the finger crack at the Bachar's is as good as it gets.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
The Bachar seam is somewhat of an area testpiece. Standing 7 meters tall, this thin technical problem has a reputation for bouting strong boulderers. You got to know your way around the stone to get up this one.
Check out this little ditty by Mr. Sisqo...
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Make me wanna holla, the way they do my life... the author draws inspiration from the late Marvin Gaye to send a tricky 6B.
foto byŠ Jeff Sillcox
For better viewing pleasure, insert witty comment here
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Way Lake Boulders
The new face of bouldering
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
There is a rising trend in the sport of bouldering: alpine summer bouldering areas. These areas are no longer just places to escape the heat or to stay in shape until the 'season' comes in again; more and more boulders are getting their lazy asses off the couch and exploring the world around them. Over the past few years the alpine talus fields of the Alps, Rockies, Pyrenees, etc have be scoured for their wealth of boulders. These areas have become destinations in their own right- obliterating the old paradym that winter was the prime bouldering season.
You better ax somebody. Jeff Sillcox listens to Wu Tang as he sends an Unknown, perhaps Unnamed 7B.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
I got a secret- this be that brand, brand new shit. It ain't even come out yet: there is no Sharma test piece here to draw attention to it- yet. The area is still ripe for development, yet it has already yielded lines up to 7C. There are some huge blocks with futuristic lines; you know, the type of stuff Dave Graham was already climbing two years ago. The rock here is a metamorphosized form of granite, simmilar in some respects to it's sister bouldering area in Rocky Mountain Nat Park. Its swirled and scooped features, crisp crimps, and absurd angles lend themselves to new age techy climbing. The advent of bouldering pads has largely facilitated the opening of such areas, Way lake is no exception: bring at least two pads.
Andrew Stevens keeps it so so def. Fingerlock + punchy pullz = 6C+.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Andrew on the futuristic, 'Don't you talk dirty to yo' mamma boy.'
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
The author enjoying a classic highball in a new wave setting.
foto byŠ Jeff Sillcox
great!!! | 22:29:26 26.08.2006 | I thank you for your next story. On english version of lezec.cz are better articles than on the czech v., really ! :-))) Great ! | Miki | reply |
  | Re: great!!! | 23:01:38 26.08.2006 | Hi Miki,
Thanks for the complement, I try to keep it real.
Andy | Andrew | reply |
Summertime is great | 19:24:48 29.08.2006 | Despite the fact that this article is great and I really enjoyed it I would say that Czech version in not bad either in contrary its getting stronger. Andy, I have to say that your comments under photos are hilarious.
| jirkas | reply |
Nice and improving of my English | 08:43:28 19.09.2006 | Thanks a lot for the series Andy! Not only to be in touch with you via your stories, but as wall the articles force to improve my English :) | Standa | reply |
Dear Andy, | 03:06:00 16.11.2006 | If you are reading this comment, you already know 3 things. One, I got your letter. Two, I found your eastside story. Three, things are a little slow here at Miguels after you left. Ted and Jean took off today, and it is raining.I hope to climb a few more days before I take off myself.
p.s. Nice story and photos | Tom | reply |
  | Re: Dear Andy, | 14:13:20 16.11.2006 | Dearest Tom,
have you an email condtraption? I do, but only for my bestest friends. here it is: andrewburgoon@gmail.com
Toodles,
Andy
P.S. gung ho- do it. | Andrew | reply |
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