Andreas Bindhammer on Czech trad sandstones | Labak (Labe valley) |
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German Champion Andreas Bindhammer visited last month one of the most popular Czech sandstones area in the Labe (Elbe) valley - called Labak. He came with his Czech girlfriend Katka Schmidt and Christian Pfanzel a photographer from German magazine Climb! to test the Czech style of run outs and "brave" (poor?) protection.
They came on May 25, 2007 for three days with guidance of some Czech climbers, like Ondra Benes who did a lot of hard first ascents there.
Andreas commented that the grades, which are considered by some climbers to be quite stiff, and the style of climbing were quite uncommon for him, but after some practice he got used to it.
In the Czech sandstone areas now Saxon grading is sued (Czech word: pisek). Look at the comparasion of the scale with the UIAA and French grades: Scales
The magazine Climb! where the story and photos should appear.
Check out some pictures from their trip:
Photographer Christian, Andreas and Ondra Benes, Labak
Photo by Standa
Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, Nebezpecne stoupani Xb
Photo by Stáník
Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, Nebezpecne stoupani Xb
Photo by Stáník
Andreas a Katka, Labak
Photo by Standa
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, Bezzuby Yuchen Xa
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, Cistic Viktor IXb
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, La Bomba Xb
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, La Bomba Xb
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, La Bomba Xb
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labák, La Bomba Xb
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, Slepa ulicka IXb
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, Slepa ulicka IXb
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Andreas Bindhammer, Labak, Tvrdolin IXc
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Katka Schmidt, Labak, Panska jizda VIIIa
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Katka Schmidt, Labak, Panska jizda VIIIa
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
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Katka Schmidt, Labak, Panska jizda VIIIa
Photo (c) www.christian-pfanzelt.de
Inside the climbing pub U Kosti
Photo by Christian
They came on May 25, 2007 for three days with guidance of some Czech climbers, like Ondra Benes who did a lot of hard first ascents there.
Andreas commented that the grades, which are considered by some climbers to be quite stiff, and the style of climbing were quite uncommon for him, but after some practice he got used to it.
In the Czech sandstone areas now Saxon grading is sued (Czech word: pisek). Look at the comparasion of the scale with the UIAA and French grades: Scales
The magazine Climb! where the story and photos should appear.
Check out some pictures from their trip:
| Lezec.cz [edit] | 23:30 14.06.2007 |
Commentaries | ... | new comments | New comment  |
| Andreas Bindhammer visits Czech Republic | 15:22:20 15.06.2007 |
| I thought it's forbidden to use chalk in the czech sandstone! On every picture you see them chalking. He is one of the stars and heroes for german climbing, so I think it's very stupid to make so much pictures using chalk. For me that's a shame for a professional climber to ignore the rules of another country! | |
| Mover | reply |
| Re: Andreas Bindhammer visits Czech Republic | 18:35:58 15.06.2007 | |
| Hi Mover, If you read this corresponding article it may make things a bit clearer: http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=6006 A quick look at our archive of pics from the area confirms that chalk is widely used in the Labak. http://www.czechclimbing.com/reference.php?cmes=184 But don't take it from us, here are some pics of a CHS sponsored athelete using chalk from the CHS website: http://www.horosvaz.cz/index.php?cmd=page&id=112 And finally, I would like to say that Andi was guided in the labak by local climbers and myself, none of whom told him it was forbidden to use chalk. So if you want to blame anybody for breaking the rules, blame me. | ||
 Andrew | reply | |
| Re: Andreas Bindhammer visits Czech Republic | 19:14:09 15.06.2007 | |
| anyone expected from such a man not doing so? well maybe in germany,... | ||
| reply | ||
| Re: Andreas Bindhammer visits Czech Republic | 21:17:22 15.06.2007 | ||
| Hi Andrew! I read the link, but what should make it clearer? First time I went to the Elbsandstein or Adrspach, I read about climbing in these areas and I know that it's forbidden! So I have to accept the rules of other, for me it's a question of honour and respect. I know that certain rules are stupid and perhaps nobody needs them. I know a lot of czech climbing sites where you can see most people chalking. But they are not in the same situation as a professional climber, who is always in the spot light! And if you want to tell me, that Andreas didn't know that it's forbidden, it sounds ridiculous to me! I have nothing against him, he is a hard working athlete and makes a very good job, with climbing and his business, building climbing gyms! And I have a lot of respect for him! But I think he should know it and make pictures without using chalk. And these are pictures which should be in a german climbing magazine. A lot of people will read these article and see the photos and think, well I can do what I want and ignore the rules! I have no problems with using chalk, but the Czech Climbing Association says it's forbidden. I also read about the pictures of Adam Ondra, but I think the climbers should open chalking for everyone or should say from 7b its allowed! And under these difficulties it's forbidden! I'm a strong climber, but when I first had to climb without chalk I had to climb 2 grades under my limit. The other way around I would never go to Siurana and try to climb La Rambla with my ice axes. Or Action Direct, but who knows, perhaps I will try it and then make pictures and send it to Desnivel, Klettern or Climb. What do you think the hole climbing community will say? I know it's not a good comparison, but I have to respect other cultures and that's why I think that this article and the pictures are not a good sign for the climbing community. | |||
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| Re: Andreas Bindhammer visits Czech Republic | 22:15:33 15.06.2007 | |||
| You are right, taking ice axes to rock is wrong comparison. With ice axes you will definitely harm the surface of the rock. | ||||
| jirkas | reply | |||
| Re: Andreas Bindhammer visits Czech Republic | 23:02:30 15.06.2007 | ||||
| well, maybe we should use chalk also in "Sachsische schweiz", climb delicate arch, or maybe something else. | |||||
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| Re: Andreas Bindhammer visits Czech Republic | 08:13:03 16.06.2007 | |||
| Like Standa said in the latest article, Andi showed up at the crag, and not only was every local Czech climber using chalk, but also the CHS sponsored athletes that guided him around. So he just acted the way he saw the locals acting. | ||||
| Andrew | reply | |||
| Re: Andreas Bindhammer visits Czech Republic | 21:23:42 19.02.2008 | |
| It's strange that chalk is forbidden and bolts aren't... | ||
| mishu | reply | |
| strange! | 00:42:02 18.07.2007 |
| Does he ever wash his hands? Even sitting in the PUB and drinking he still has chalk on his palms... | |
| Kuba | reply |