How does Adam Ondra send 9a+ in Spain |
Adam Ondra had a successful vacation in Spain, despite that the weather didnt cooperate as much he collected several remarkable sends. In Friday evening I am packed and waiting. Waiting for the trip with the best world climber Adam Ondra. In time.
... The driver is Adam´s mother Eva, Kubo Kovacik, Slovak young friend sit in the rear. The 14 hours long journey to French Seynes is in front of us. From there the next destination is 450km away Oliana in Spain.
We traveled via Seynes (just a short stop) to be there just one day. It was very hot day, the temperature raised up to 38°C. Sektor Nouveau Monde Right was our target. Kubo Kovacik dried Le Dinosaure 8a+. Was still very hot, Adam was going to try two chosen routes for OnSight. The first was Les Légendes Du Gard 8b/b+ and the second Metaphysique Des Tubes 8c. All climbers from the area came to see Adams triumph ride.
By the evening we continued to Spain to brand new area Oliana.
In the morning we set out to the walk to the wall. It is superb and the bolting works on it are still on - mostly by Dani Andrada with Chris and Victor Fernandez.
Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+
photo by © Vojtech Vrzba
Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+
photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba
Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+
photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba
Adam goes with Kubo to one worm up, quite hard 7b, and then he studies his target – Papichulo 9a+. Just from the bush smiling Chris and Daila and the other climbers come. Adam climbs the first attempt, cleans the route and clips missing quick draws. There is a fog and Spaniards heat themselves at fire place. Adam does two other tries and finishes in the crux boulder problem. Chris tries the new project Mama Chichi (perhaps 9a+) and according his words it would take more time to do it ... We look at elegant moves of Daila Ojeda in route China Crisis 8b+. As a cool down Adam does OS Project De Carles 8b+.
The next day we have plan for rest day in less known area Perles. There is many easier routes and one photogenic 9a on the edge of big overhang. Eva climbs we others enjoy sun and relax mainly Adam who still has diarrhea for the 5th day.
Lucka Hrozova in route 7a
photo by © Vojtech Vrzba
Kubo Kovacik in route Marroncita, 8b/b+
photo by © Vojtech Vrzba
Ala in route Marroncita, 8b/b+
photo by © Vojtech Vrzba
On the evening we met in Oliana with a Czech friend Ala. On morning the sky is clean and we expect a hot day. May be for that Adam does not wait and he sends Papichulo in the first try. ...
Adam in the afternoon does OS 20 meters snake Los Humildes Pa Casa 8c.
On the evening we move to the next area Santa Linya. The climbers there are in the cave around fire place. Adam goes to check the start of his next task – Directa Open Your Mind 9a/a+ - it looks dry.
Oliana, Spain
photo by © Eva Ondrová
Adam prays for better weather
photo by © Ala Rozsypal
Santa Linya, Spain
photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba
Morning Adams climbs classics for warm up and than the first clipping attempt. Again cleaning, trying the moves etc. Under sun the cave change in the hot malting pot. With the sunset it begins to be acceptable. So therefore Adam has three attempts for each day. Two in the morning and one in late afternoon. This scenario continues 4 days, Adam falls or in the bottom bouldery part (8c+) or slips on the 2nd part "only" for 8b+. It is quite hard because his health state is not perfect.
On Sunday Tomas Mrazek and Helena Lipenska come. The day Adam falls in the last hard move of the entire route (foot slip) and has decided we have to go AWAY! For couple days to rest from stereotype ... - Margalef...the ideal selection. I have to leave by plane to Prague.
Open your mind direct, 9a+
photo by © Vojtech Vrzba
Open your mind direct, 9a+
photo by © Vojtech Vrzba
Open your mind direct, 9a+
photo by © Vojtech Vrzba
„Weather worsens, it rains two days, and also snow ... Adam falls in Margalef in the last move in 9a... we have bad luck!“
I got similar news about the conditions ... So tha last send Adam did in Spain was L´Espiadimonis 8c OS in Margalef.
The "Open your mind direct" 9a+ is still Adam´s project, and the last work was for famous „BigUp Production“ camera to repete RP send of Papichulo in Oliana. It should appear in the new film „Progression“. I look forward to it!
More:
More photo
Adams latest sends
(Short translation by CzechClimbing.com team)
... The driver is Adam´s mother Eva, Kubo Kovacik, Slovak young friend sit in the rear. The 14 hours long journey to French Seynes is in front of us. From there the next destination is 450km away Oliana in Spain.
We traveled via Seynes (just a short stop) to be there just one day. It was very hot day, the temperature raised up to 38°C. Sektor Nouveau Monde Right was our target. Kubo Kovacik dried Le Dinosaure 8a+. Was still very hot, Adam was going to try two chosen routes for OnSight. The first was Les Légendes Du Gard 8b/b+ and the second Metaphysique Des Tubes 8c. All climbers from the area came to see Adams triumph ride.
By the evening we continued to Spain to brand new area Oliana.
In the morning we set out to the walk to the wall. It is superb and the bolting works on it are still on - mostly by Dani Andrada with Chris and Victor Fernandez.
Adam goes with Kubo to one worm up, quite hard 7b, and then he studies his target – Papichulo 9a+. Just from the bush smiling Chris and Daila and the other climbers come. Adam climbs the first attempt, cleans the route and clips missing quick draws. There is a fog and Spaniards heat themselves at fire place. Adam does two other tries and finishes in the crux boulder problem. Chris tries the new project Mama Chichi (perhaps 9a+) and according his words it would take more time to do it ... We look at elegant moves of Daila Ojeda in route China Crisis 8b+. As a cool down Adam does OS Project De Carles 8b+.
The next day we have plan for rest day in less known area Perles. There is many easier routes and one photogenic 9a on the edge of big overhang. Eva climbs we others enjoy sun and relax mainly Adam who still has diarrhea for the 5th day.
On the evening we met in Oliana with a Czech friend Ala. On morning the sky is clean and we expect a hot day. May be for that Adam does not wait and he sends Papichulo in the first try. ...
Adam in the afternoon does OS 20 meters snake Los Humildes Pa Casa 8c.
On the evening we move to the next area Santa Linya. The climbers there are in the cave around fire place. Adam goes to check the start of his next task – Directa Open Your Mind 9a/a+ - it looks dry.
Morning Adams climbs classics for warm up and than the first clipping attempt. Again cleaning, trying the moves etc. Under sun the cave change in the hot malting pot. With the sunset it begins to be acceptable. So therefore Adam has three attempts for each day. Two in the morning and one in late afternoon. This scenario continues 4 days, Adam falls or in the bottom bouldery part (8c+) or slips on the 2nd part "only" for 8b+. It is quite hard because his health state is not perfect.
On Sunday Tomas Mrazek and Helena Lipenska come. The day Adam falls in the last hard move of the entire route (foot slip) and has decided we have to go AWAY! For couple days to rest from stereotype ... - Margalef...the ideal selection. I have to leave by plane to Prague.
„Weather worsens, it rains two days, and also snow ... Adam falls in Margalef in the last move in 9a... we have bad luck!“
I got similar news about the conditions ... So tha last send Adam did in Spain was L´Espiadimonis 8c OS in Margalef.
The "Open your mind direct" 9a+ is still Adam´s project, and the last work was for famous „BigUp Production“ camera to repete RP send of Papichulo in Oliana. It should appear in the new film „Progression“. I look forward to it!
More:More photo
Adams latest sends
(Short translation by CzechClimbing.com team)
| Vojtech Vrzba [edit] | 14:07 23.03.2009 |
Commentaries | ... | new comments | New comment  |
| the best world climber | 12:55:48 08.04.2009 |
| Dear Author, thank you for the information that Adam Ondra is the world best climber. I did not know that before maybe because I was so dazzled by the performance by other "good" climbers. And if Adam would not have had this stupid diarrhoea of course he would have climbed Golpe De Estado...or maybe even onsighted. Kind regards marc | |
| marc | reply |
| Re: the best world climber | 15:51:29 16.04.2009 | |
| best world climber? maybe when he starts to bolt his own routes... | ||
| kyuss | reply | |