Michi Wohlleben climbs two Multipitch 8a’s in one week |
After a hard Expedition to the Himalayan Karakorum, Michi was able to send in autumn two difficult multipitch routes.On Sunday 4th October, one day before his 19th Birthday, Michi made the first redpoint ascent of “Geht’s noch Doc?” in the Bavarian Alps near Tegernsee. The route was bolted three years ago by the Mountain Guides Peter Albert (www.steile-welt.de) and Michi Hofmann (www.rotpunktschule.de).
Peter and Michi Hofmann allowed Michi to try the route, because they had now three years time to send it.
Geht s noch Doc?,8a, 7c pitch
photo by © Hansi Heckmair
Geht s noch Doc?,
photo by © Hansi Heckmair
Geht s noch Doc?, 8a
photo by © Hansi Heckmair
Geht s noch Doc?, 8a
photo by © Hansi Heckmair
On Saturday the 3rd October, Michi already sent the 8a pitch, a quite technical and crimpy pitch, but Michi hadn’t enough time to climb the other pitches, that’s why he just checked out the following two 7c pitches.
One day after, Michi came back, totally motivated to send the whole route.
Michi Hofmann has been there as well, he did with his friend Jakob Kunc before Michi a team-redpoint ascent.
Michi climbed after them, the first hard pitch (7a+) is quite pumpy, so Michi took a rest under the 8a pitch. He just shortly checked it out and easily sent it. YES!
But there have been still the two following 7c pitches, also very technical but also endurance climbing.
Michi checked the first 7c shortly out and sent it. He felt very happy and knew just one more hard pitch and then it’s done!
Same procedure, checking it out and sending! He sent it, it felt hard but it worked.
After this, Michi onsighted the following 6c+ and “Geht’s noch Doc?” had it’s first complete redpoint ascent!
The pitches: 5 ; 5 ; 7a+ ; 8a ; 7c ; 7c ; 6c+
The picture of the whole wall (hi res)
photo by © Hansi Heckmair
Topo cesty Geht’s noch Doc? (hi res)
Topo of the route Geht’s noch Doc? (hi res)
But this was not enough, one week later Michi was able to realize another big dream! Freeclimbing the big technoclassic “Via Italia” in Dolomites.
In spring Michi nearly sent it, but fell twice in the big roof of “Via Italia”.
On 11th October Michi leaded the whole route and redpointed every pitch!
This is the second german redpoint ascent and also the youngest of “Via Italia”!
Big thanks to his climbing partner Joachim Feger, who belayed always very good and motivated Michi so good that these dreams became real!
The pitches: 2 ; 6a ; 7b ; 7c+ ; 8a ; 6a ; 7a+
Via Italia, 8a
Via Italia, 8a
Michi with his friend
Michi is supported by
www.wuerth.de
www.ocun.com
www.rockpillars.com
www.mountain-equipment.co.uk
www.julbo-eyewear.com
www.deuter.com
Peter and Michi Hofmann allowed Michi to try the route, because they had now three years time to send it.
On Saturday the 3rd October, Michi already sent the 8a pitch, a quite technical and crimpy pitch, but Michi hadn’t enough time to climb the other pitches, that’s why he just checked out the following two 7c pitches.
One day after, Michi came back, totally motivated to send the whole route.
Michi Hofmann has been there as well, he did with his friend Jakob Kunc before Michi a team-redpoint ascent.
Michi climbed after them, the first hard pitch (7a+) is quite pumpy, so Michi took a rest under the 8a pitch. He just shortly checked it out and easily sent it. YES!
But there have been still the two following 7c pitches, also very technical but also endurance climbing.
Michi checked the first 7c shortly out and sent it. He felt very happy and knew just one more hard pitch and then it’s done!
Same procedure, checking it out and sending! He sent it, it felt hard but it worked.
After this, Michi onsighted the following 6c+ and “Geht’s noch Doc?” had it’s first complete redpoint ascent!
The pitches: 5 ; 5 ; 7a+ ; 8a ; 7c ; 7c ; 6c+
But this was not enough, one week later Michi was able to realize another big dream! Freeclimbing the big technoclassic “Via Italia” in Dolomites.
In spring Michi nearly sent it, but fell twice in the big roof of “Via Italia”.
On 11th October Michi leaded the whole route and redpointed every pitch!
This is the second german redpoint ascent and also the youngest of “Via Italia”!
Big thanks to his climbing partner Joachim Feger, who belayed always very good and motivated Michi so good that these dreams became real!
The pitches: 2 ; 6a ; 7b ; 7c+ ; 8a ; 6a ; 7a+
Michi is supported by
www.wuerth.de
www.ocun.com
www.rockpillars.com
www.mountain-equipment.co.uk
www.julbo-eyewear.com
www.deuter.com
| Jirka Sika [edit] | 23:03 03.12.2009 |
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