Letosni leden jsme jiz konecne uskutecnili dlouho planovany vylet za lezenim na Mallorku. Po dlouhych pripravach a cekani na vhodny last moment, jsme se konecne, jsa vybaveni podrobnymi informacemi o skalach, prirode a podnebi, snesli ( samozrejme v letadle z Prahy za 2,5 hod) na nevelky ostrov ve Stredozemnim mori - Mallorku. Chtel bych nyni strucne podat informace pro pripadne nasledovniky, nebot deset dni stravenych na tomto malebnem kousku zeme, se nam velmi libilo.
Mallorka - je opravdu lezeckym rajem a to z nekolika duvodu. Asi nejvice pritazlivym se zda jeji, pro lezeni fantasticke klima v zimnich mesicich. Leden muze totiz stale znamenat lezeni v tricku ci do puli tela a pro otuzile (velmi otuzile) i nejake to tempo v mori.
Svoji krasu ma i velka rozmanitost skalnich oblasti, ktere prestoze nejsou, co do poctu cest nijak giganticke nabizeji solidni lezeni na nekolik tydnu pobytu, pro vsechny vykonostni kategorie. Materialem je pevny chytovaty vapenec (zluty, oranz, sedivy), ktery tvori jediny skalnaty material na ostrove je trochu porezni a rad tvori krapniky. Prakticky neobjevite oblast, ktere by nedominoval nejaky rampouch, krapnik, nejaka zila ci vapencovy had. Zde tomu rikaji tufa. Nektere tvori dokonce karfiolovite utvary trcici ze steny a lezci pak poskytujici nadherny no-handrest v jinak hladke stene. Chyty jsou ostre neolezene a poskytuji velmi dobre treni. V nekterych oblastech zejmena u more vam ostra struktura natrha zaverem dne kuzi na prstech.
Skalni oblasti jsou relativne nedaleko hlavniho mesta Palma de Mallorca (autem 1/2 az 1 hodinu jizdy). Jsou zejmena na zapade nejlepsi, lehci na severu a nad morem na vychode ostrova. Oblasti nejsou daleko od sebe a tak je mozne spojit lezeni v nekolika oblastech i v jednom dni. Potencial pro eventualni mozne dalsi oblasti, sektory a cesty je naprosto giganticky. Dosud je lezecky vyuzito pry jen deset procent skalnich sten, sam si myslim ze toto cislo je jeste nizsi, nebot kam se podivate, vsude vidite nadherne steny, ale jen na malokterych jsou udelany cesty. Pravda je take, ze rada sten je jen velmi obtizne pristupna a nektere jsou dokonce zcela tabu, nebot lezi na pozemku nejakeho dobrodince, ktery se rozhodl, ze nedovoli jejich osoupavani lezci. Take je zde markantni fakt, ze vetsinou jen pohodlne pristupne skaly byly vybaveny nyty, prestoze treba nejsou tak hezke, jako jejich hure dostupne kolegyne.
Ostrov take nabizi radu jinych aktivit lezeni nejblizsi jiste bude patrit turistika a cyklistika. A v teplejsich mesicichi koupani v mori.
Ale abych stale jen nechvalil, ostrov ma i sva negativa, nejvice na me zapusobila ohavna zkolonizovanost pobrezi ( prevazne Nemcikama a z toho mozna pramenici neduvera a podezrivavost mistnich obyvatel k turistum ) Nastesti leden je spolu s ostanimi nesezonimy mesici pomerne poklidny a tak spise podivne pusobi pustota hotelovych kompexu a plazi. Obcas se take setkate s nevrazivym pohledem starousedliku, kdyz si to mirite pres jejich pozemek, casto jedinou moznost, jak se dostat ke skalam. Takze jeste pristupy ke skalam jsou trochu zvlastni kapitolou v tomto kraji. Casto totiz musite obchazet, hledat, prodirat se houstim a preskakovat kamene zidky. Ale neni to tak zle , casto to bylo zpusobeno, ze jsme hned napoprve netrefili ten spravny pristup.
Tipy na cestu:
Na Mallorcu se prevazne leta a zimnim obdobi je prave pro lezce zajimava sezona s nabidkou Fishera. Jeho lednova last moment nam napriklad umoznila 11 dni za 6990 Kc vcetne letu, ubytovani, polopenze a dokonce Allianz pojisteni. Vim, ze pro lezce je sedm tisic vetsinou dost penez, a ze by bylo mozno poridit za to treba dva vylety do Italie se spanim ve stanu, ale ubytovani na hotelu v zimnich mesicich, kdy je jiz v sest hodin tma, ma sve vyhody. Polopenze (prestoze snidane byly trochu slabota a vecer naopak velka porce - hotel Leblon) je take idealni reseni pro lezecky trip. Celkove naklady vzrostou pak jen o pujceni auta, ale ty jiz lze rozlozit na vice ucastniku. (auto typu Ford Ka, ci Opel Corsa je cena asi 550-600 Kc na den, plati, ze cim dele tim levnejsi). Pro trenovanejsi je mozne jezdit po skalach i na kole, pak to dostava zcela jiny rozmer, nebot skaly jsou od Palmy vzdalene 25 - 45 ty severni az 80 km.
Co si jiste na Mallorku nevozit:
Pomerance, mandle, citrony a datle jsou pochutiny, ktere pri toulkach jiste objevite v opustenych sadech ci podel cest.
Naopak, co si privezt:
Vetrovku (obcas treba v otevrenych oblastech - Alaro, Santanya dosti fouka), slunecni bryle a krem na opalovani. Pro navstevniky hotelu Leblon nejaky doplnek snidane. ( vlocky ), lano staci ve vetsine oblasti i 60m a radsi vice nez deset expresek, tvurci cest nebyli z nejodvaznejsich a tak kazda cesta je nahusto vytycena radou nytu.
Kolo je take bez problemu prepravovano , musi vsak byt zabaleno v krabici, ci byt v transpornim obalu, pak je prepraveno jako normalni zavazadlo a neplatite za nej nic navic.( leti s vama)
Dulezite je take se vybavit pruvodcem sezenete ho v Plame ulice Via Sindicat 21 obchod se jmenuje Es Refugi.
Upozorneni:
Nekteri z mistnich sikulu se rozhodli, ze se budou zivit vyktradanim aut a tak je temer jistotou, ze vam vytlucou sklo, kdyz zapomenete neco v aute (auta samotna se na ostrove nekradou). Takze se dokonce v pruvodci muzete docist drsnou radu, ze je lepe auto nechat otevrene se stazenymi okenky. Pro ty kdo nekdy navstivili Calanques to neni asi zadne novum.
Oblasti a jejich charakteristika:
Sa Gubia
10:00-18:00 [92 cest, 4-7b+]
Asi nejznamejsi divoka oblast na ostrove s divokym pristupem (25min), ale kupodivu zdaleka ne nejlepsi. Relativne komplikovana pristupova cesta obchazejici pozemky vas dovede do kotlinovite rozsireneho kanonu, ktery nabizi nadherne, trochu divocejsi lezeni. Jak sportovniho tak i vicedelkoveho az horskeho chrakteru. Slunce putujici po nebi postupne zasviti do vsech sten a tak se mu lze pekne vystavit ci pred nim schovat. Doporucene cesty:
Silo se no Vengo 7a
Algo Salvage 6b
Silicona 6b+
Sexo Debil 4 6a +6b +6b 6b
Santanayi
10:00-18:00 [34 cest, 4 - 8a]
Tri terasy tvori tuto vyslunenou peknou oblast. O prvni se tristi more, druha tvori perfekni kamenou platformu pro jistice a na treti nejvyssi ( do 20m ) se leze a vedou zde cesty vsech obtiznosti.
Jirka v 6c+ Santanayi
Doporucene cesty:
Colesterol Party 6a+
Na c\'al les Seychelles 7a+
La Calle de Ritmo 7b
Valldemosa
12:00-18:00 [40 cest, 4 - 7c]
Oblast z vyhledem na more, do dvou sektoru rozdelene nevysoke skalky se znamou previslou casti nad silnici, kde vede pekne 6c+ a 7a+. Spise pro soft movery a idealni jako posledni den pred odletem.
Fraguel
9:00-12:00 [71cest, 4 - 8b+]
Fraguel vysoke pres 30m, previsle steny zdaleka nejsou zaplneny
Fraguel je naprosto super moderni oblast v divokem a tichem kanonu s dobrym pristupem. Klikata sotolinova cesta, ktera odbocuje doleva do kopce jeste v mestecku Bunyola, vas vyveze na vrchol kopce, kde zaparkujete, aby jste pak po kratkem sestupu ubocim, zalesnenym polovysokymi cesminovymi duby, dosli do polorozevreneho kanonu. Zaverecnou pasaz musite jiz vylozene sesplhat po zakotvenem lane s uzliky a ocitnete se v divokem uzlabi, jehoz obe strany jsou prerusovane lemovany nadhernymi oranzovymi stenami na jejichz vrcholcich se usidlily pokroucene borovice.
Jana zdolava 7b+ - Fraguel
Steny dosahuji vysky asi do 35 m. Leze se zatim jen v nejblizsim a hlavnim sektoru, ale ostatni steny dychtive cekaji na nove prvolezce.(na masivni az 40m sektor, ktery je videt skoro naproti hlavnimu sektoru, bude pravdepodobne sektor budoucnosti tohoto udoli jsou zatim vytyceny tri nadherne linie, ale moznosti je pravdepodobne dvacetkrat tolik.) Doporucesty:
Jungle Hop 7a
Goo-goo Mack 8a
Ramadan 8b+
On es l\'Avi 7b
Port Soller
12:00-18:00 [30 cest, 6a - 8a+]
Nadherny utes nad morem s nekolika peknymi cestami. Bohuzel velmi trpici expansi cestovniho ruchu. Primo na vrcholu skal se totiz mistni koumesove rozhodli postavit pas hotelu. Oblast se tedy nachazi pod stavenistem a tak k problemum s pristupem se pridava i neporadek a hluk.
Port Soler
Alaro
11:00 - 18:00 [41 cest, 5 - 7c+]
Alaro - pas sektoru, z nichz nektere dosud cekaji na sve objeveni
Oblast, ktera jiste nadchne kazdeho lezce svymi stenami, cestami a hlavne uzasnym vyhledem na cely ostrov. Obrovska hora, jako protahly k nebi trcici suk, je lemovana stenami ze vsech svetovych stan a ovencena zriceninami gotickeho hradu a novodobejsi kapli z roku 1726. Je zde zrealizovano opravdu jen mizive procento moznosti, (zatim jen tri nejpohodlneji pristupne sektory) nehlede na vedlejsi neuveritelne krasny a giganticky masiv, na kterem se neleze zatim vubec.
Jana leze 7b v Alaru
Leze se hlavne ve dvou sektorech nejvice ve zcela levem, primo pod zriceninami hradu a pak v sektoru daleko vpravo stred je hanebne nevyuzit, prestoze nabizi nadhernou skalu , misty vykotlanou polojeskynemi a ozdobenou hadovitymi splazi, vzdy vsak s pevnou skalou. Doporucesty:
Buf !! 7a
Zatropeck 7c
Calla Magraner
9:00-18:00 [60 cest, vse]
Romanticka oblast v krasne zatoce chranena pred vetrem. Je zde vetsinou soft lezeni s vyjimkou dvou vice previslych jeskynovitych sektoru.
Jednim z nich je El Cuenco [14 cest , 7a-8b] uzasna jeskynovita stena s samymi previslymi a tvrdymi cestami. Je trochu temna, ale je tim padem chranena pred horkem a destem.
Caimari
Spise tezsi cesty. Previsly sektor s poradnymi prasky. Je vlastne jednim ze sektoru Cala Magraner.
Oblasti je zde mnohem vice, nejsou jiz tak velke, ale jiste v kazde z nich by si kazdy nasel tu svou cestu.
Creveta
12:00 18:00 [28 cest, 4- 6c]
Poklopenace v nadherne krajine a ostre chyty charakterizuji pry tuto oblast ostatecne pro lidi operujici v sestem stupni fr. klas. Muze zde byt vetrno.
Calvia
12:00 - 18:00 [20 cest, do 6b]
Stinene stromy a chladnejsi kdyz je vetrno. Poklopene male stenky nedaleko Plamy. Lezeni je spise na prsty vetsinou kolem esteho stupne franc. klasifikace a po ostrejsich chytech.
Torrella
12:00 -18:00 [12cest, od kazdeho stupne jedna ci dve cesty]
Krasne skaly situovane na vychode od Soleru je zde jen nekolik cest presto nelze rici ze se nevyplati sem zajet. Je zde od kazde obtiznosti neco.
Son Xanquete
15:00 - 18:00 [14cest, sedmy]
Nizke skalky nad morem a na nich asi 14 hezkych cest, previsy a ostry material.
Ses Tret
Bez slunce [14cest, tezsi do 8b]
Opusteny vapencovy lom neprilis hezke lezeni. Previsle - dobre kdyz prsi.
Santa Ponca
[7cest, od 6b do 7b+]
Ve stinu situovane vesmes previsle skalky
Betlem
Nova oblast spise lehke cesty v plotnach. Dva sektory. Betlem One a Betlem Two.
Orientacni ceny jidel, potravin a napoju v restauracich a obchodech:
Bezne jidlo v restauraci:
v levnejsi 800-1 500 ESP,
v luxusnesi 2500-5000 ESP
Cola: v restauraci 150 ESP, v obchode 55 ESP
Pivo: v restauraci 150-300 ESP, v obchode 40 - 100 ESP
Vino 0,2 litru: v restauraci 250 ESP, v obochode od 100 ESP za litr
Voda 1 litr: v restauraci 150 ESP, v obchode 90 - 120 ESP
Hamburger 400 ESP
Ostatni veci:
Benzin 130 ESP
Pruvodce okopirovany - vsechny dulezite oblasti 500 ESP
Pruvodce nove vydani zatim ho jeste nemaji (na jare 2001 ) cena odhaduji 3-4 tisice ESP
Sto ESP je 21 Kc
Ne, s nama v hotelu byli lezci, kteri si je tam privezli.
Problemy s prevozem ani s umistenim v hotelu nemeli. Vzdyt je to ostrov jako stvoreny pro cyklistiku a take spoustu cycklistu sem prileta. Asfalt jako mlat a vsude se da dojet.
Plně s vámi souhlasím,že Mallorka je oblast,kterou stojí navštívit.Byl jsem tam týden lońskou zimu a včera jsem se vrátil z dvoutýdenního pobytu.Jestli byste potřebovali,mám britský průvodce a mohu vám ho nakopírovat.A ještě,oblasti Calvia a Betlem jsou nepřístupné kvůli vyloženému nepřátelství majitelů pozemků vůči lezcům.Ahoj Aleš ze Šternberka
Alesi, to vse docela zapada do nasich postrehu o tom, jak jsou nekdy problematicke pristupy. Pozemek u skal vetsinou neni pro nikoho zajimavy, ale kolem nich je vetsinou kompaktni rada pozemnku, pres ktere je obtizne se dostat. Tak je treba nekdy volit delsi cestu nekdy hodne dlouhou a pozemky obejit. Kdyz skaly primo lezi na nekoho zahrade, je pak vetsinou posekano , pokud to neni nejaky pohodar.
V lednu je to opravdu jen pro otuzile. Ani jaro neni uplne nejlepsi, i kdyz teploty mohou byt jiz na Slunci tropicke. Ale jak more pomalu vychlada, tak idealni se jevi konec turisticke sezony na podzim. Konec rijna a listopad. Minuly rok melo more jeste v prosinci 19 stupnu a to je modra nadhera.
Prave jsem se vratil z Mallorky, musim konstatovat, že i v únoru to tam není špatné, ale chci jen upozornit zájemce o lezení v oblasti el Cuenco - od dob vydání průvodce vyrostl asi 20 m od skal luxusní hotel. Jedná se o střežený pozemek a lezení je možné po tel. dohodě s majitelem. Tuto informaci mám od místních lezců.
Jinak mam malou opravu Caimari není sektorem Cala Magraneru, ale samostatná oblast severně cca 12 km od Inci.
Pravda, pravda chybka se vloudila pri sazeni textu odskocila radka, Caimari je v centru ostrova nedaleko Alara a El Cuenco je po ceste na Cala Magraner. Diky za upresneni. Sazec zustal po skole a sam sem si dal pohlavek.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 17:40:59 28.02.2001
Potapanie
Bol tam aj nejaky podmorsky badatel? Funguju tam potapacke agentury alebo takto: kto si tam zasnorchloval a aky je tam podmorsky zivot? Diky za info
Podle poslednich zprav je oblast Alaro zavrena, nachazi se na soukromem pozemnku. Je "super" ze nekdo muze vlastnit cele udoli horu i s gotickym hradem. Take Fischer letos nenabizi pobytove zajezdy na Malorcu , sezenete u nej jen letenky.
Info o zakazu lezeni na Alaru nejsou az tak pravdou. Majitel pozemku rozhodl, ze lezt se muze, ale jenom s jejich predchozim souhlasem, ktery je mozno ziskat mailem. Nanestesti adresu jsem uz zapomel, ale myslim, ze tato se stale na Rockfax.com kde se da dale sehnat vytecny pruvodce s dobrymi popisy skal a pristupu k nim.
Zapsal: Stepan, 21:29:48 27.11.2002
potapeni
potapecskeych skol tu je habadej. Urcite ti daj na ne v hotelu informace. Ja si tu pred tremi lety dala open water diver (PADI) do 20 metru behem tri dnu. stalo me to to asi 50 000Pts (asi 300€). Od ty doby sem se k tomu z financnich a zdravotnich duvodu nevratila :-(. Potapeni je tu fajn nejlepsi prej je ale u Cabrery, coz je 1. "spanelsky narodni morni park" .
Snorchl je jinak fajn po celym pobrezi. Je tu spousta skrytych jeskynek. Ale bacha na meduzy!
pa pa
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