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Czech mountaineering union´s ascents of the 2006

Czech boy wonder, Adam Ondra (13 years old), was granted The Ascent of the Year 2006 by The Czech Mountaineering Union for his ascent of Martin Krpan 9a, PP, in Osp, Slovenia. He also got extraordinary appreciation in 2006 for the large number of ascents of extreme difficulty, "in the case of 13-years-old climber it is the world unique performance".

The Czech mountaineering union announced the list of the granted climber yesterday on its web site.

Also in the category of sport climbing, Tomas Mrazek was granted Acent of the Year 2006 for his flash of El Koala, 8c in St. Linya, Spain- up to now the most difficult ascent by a Czech climber in that style.

Ascent of the Year was also given to Silvie Rajfová for her ascent of Marioneta, 8b/b+ in Osp, Slovenia, for the best women performance.


Adam Ondra in Martin Krpan, 9a – 

photo from archives of czechclimbing.com by© Eva Ondrová





Document:

The granted sport performance of the year 2006 - mountains, rock climbs and ski mountaineering

I. Mountains up 6000 m

Ascent of the year 2006

Mt. Meru  - „Filkův nebeský smích“ (Filek´s heaven laugh - firstascent in alpin styl, 7a (UIAA 8) M5 80°
NW wall of Mt.Meru Central (6310 m.s.a.), India, Garhwal Himalay, Gangotri
Marek Holeček and Jan Kreisinger, 28.10.- 6.11.2006 

II. Mountains under 6 000 m – mix and glacier

Ascent of the year 2006

Travers of the Ellsworth mountains from Patriot Hills to Vinson Massif and ascent to Mt. Vinson (5140m).
Zdeněk Hrubý, Vladimír Nosek, Rudolf Švaříček, Pavol Barabáš (Slovakia), Peter Valušiak (Slovakia), November – December 2005.
The Mt. Vinson top was reached by Zdeněk Hrubý and Vladimír Nosek.
The world first travers of Ellsworth mountains  Patriot Hills – Vinson Massif (400km skimountaineering ascents and ice fall climbing (to 80°), finished by the ascent to the highest mountain of Antarctica.


III. Mountains under 6 000 m – bigwalls

Honorary appreciation

Yosemite, El Capitan - Free Rider 5.12d/5.13a (UIAA 9), free climb
Dušan Janák and Jiří Šrůtek, 14.10., 18. – 20. 10. 2006

IV. mountains under 6000 m – rocks

Ascent of the year 2006 with the star

Madagaskar, n.p. Andringitra, Tsaranoro be (1900 m) NE wall, first ascent „Shortcut“ RP 7c+ (UIAA 9/9+)
Tomáš Sobotka, Ondřej Beneš, Harald Berger, Florian Scheimpflug (Austria) 21. - 26. 9. 2006
1st RP Beneš x Sobotka 30. 9. 2006


Ascent of the year 2006

Dolomity, Marmolada – Fram: End of Mystery, the first PP; 10- (8a+) E4
Václav Šatava and Dušan Janák 11. – 13. 9. 2006

Honorary appreciation

Rätikon, Kirchlispitze - Silbergeier 8b+ (UIAA 10/10+), PP 
Ondřej Beneš and belayer Jan Culek, 4.7.2006
The 7th ascent in good style

V. sport mixs and ices

Ascent of the year 2006

Kandersteg, Flying circus M10, WI 5 E4, PP in the 1st attempt, 2nd ascent
Jan Doudlebský and Václav Šatava, 13. 1. 2006.
Dangerous route by Robert Jasper was repeated after 8 years.

Karwendel, Dryland: Happy M10-, PP
Jitka Mázlová, 21.3. 2006
The hardest mix did by Czech women.

Honorary appreciation

Karwendel, Dryland: Tension , M 12-, PP
Luboš Mázl, 25.2.2006
The hardest mix route climbed by Czech climber

Karwendel, Dryland: Fontok , M 11-, OS
Václav Šatava, 25.2.06
The Czech hardest mix route in OS.

VI. Non sandstones (sport rock climbing)

Ascent of the year 2006

Osp (Slovinsko), Mišja peč - Martin Krpan, 9a (UIAA  11  ), PP
Adam Ondra, 11. 11. 2006
The world unique performance by 13-years-old climber, confirmed by very succesful climbing season.

St. Linya (Španělsko) - El Koala 8c (UIAA 11-), FLASH
Tomas Mrazek, 5. 3. 2006
Up to now the Czech hardest climb in this style.

Osp (Slovinsko), Mišja peč - Marioneta, 8b/b+ (UIAA 10), PP
Silvie Rajfová, 16.11.2006
The highest grade by Czech women after 7 years.

Honorary appreciation

Moravský kras (Moravian Karst), Sloup, Czech Republic: Výměna manželek, 8c (UIAA  11-), first ascent
Adam Ondra

Moravský kras, (Moravian Karst), Sloup, Czech Republic: Pohádkové sny, 8c (UIAA 11-), first ascent
Pavel Kořán

VII. Czech and German trad sandstones

Nobody was granted.

VIII. Bouldering

Ascent of the year 2006

Petrohrad - Barevný svět, 8B+ Fb
Petr Resch, 1. 3. 2006
The first ascent of the grade in Czech Republic.

IX. Traditional ski mountaneering

Downhill of the year 2006

Pamir, Pik Lenina (7 134 m), ascent via Pik Razdelnaja, downhill across the North face
Jan Novák, summer 2006
The ascent was not extreme, but it was done by solo ascent to top and by nonstop 2700 m long downhill to the BC

Extraordinary appreciation for the performance of the year 2006

was given to Adam Ondra for big amount of remarkable ascents in the high difficulty with smal amoutn of attempts in the case of 13-years-old climber it is the world unique performance.


The ascents 2006 were judged from the received aplications by Commision of Alpinismus of the Czech mountaineering union.




The source (Czech language): www.horosvaz.cz

Lezec.cz   [edit] 13:40 13.01.2007Print 

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