A 35metres long, extremely overhanging route - called Marina Superstar (extension of existing route Marina 8c/c+) was bolted by Matteo Marini, is situated in sector "Bronx" near Domusnovas vilage about 40kms from Cagliari.
Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a 8b+ pitch in 45 degrees overhang, then it continues over 4 quickdraws to another chain (8c/c+) and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of 7C+ Fr in nearly vertical roof to an edge of the cave. Several hard moves with heelhooks and one good resthold and comes another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - going from horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The difference between last bolt and the chain is approximately 6 metres!
Adam Ondra sent this route on Tuesday evening after 4 days of working on it. During his tries there were broken two tufas in the roof, where he could rest a bit so he had to change the sequence as well and was obliged to use wet tufa and match on it too!
Adam in hardest spot
photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba
That made probably the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days to say the final verdict - 9a+/b.
During his stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of another hard routes in sectors Bronx (Death Row 8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo (The Voice 8c+).
In the meantime he had onsinghted seven routes from 8a to 8b.
The Cave
photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba
Further photos at www.climb4fun.cz