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SP boulder Keqiao (CHN) (18.04)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Wujiang (CHN) (25.04)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Indonesie (02.05)


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2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324


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SP v ledolezení Saas Fee (24.01)
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Kontinentální pohár a MČR v ledolezení (07.12)


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Rim Ram 7c+
Ztopořený 9+
Marathon 7c


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Brief <img src=fotos/clanky08/c080513_.jpg border=0 align=right> Nicolas Favresse repeated Greenspit a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe. At the end of two days of effort Nico managed to repeat the route on his 7th try placing the protection on the send.
Text The route consisted on a <b>12</b>-meter roof crack with lots of tricky crack climbing moves mixing hand, fists and finger jams. The route was first redpointed by the strong Swiss crack specialist, Didier Berthod, and features in the movie First ascents. In Nico's word: <i>This route is truly fantastic and very unique for European climbing. I can't believe I am the first person to repeat this. It's so classic!</i> <center><img src="fotos/clanky08/c080513a.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Bernardo Gimenez </font></i></center> It was a perfect send. The day was over but there was still just enough light to give a very last try. I was already feeling a little bit tired but I wanted to give it all a last chance. When I arrived at the crux the right piece of pro slipped of my hands and fell to the ground while trying to place it. For a moment I thought it was over then I looked on my harness and saw my last pro I hesitated for a while then turned to my belayer and said: I' ll just go for it! I placed my very last pro (making it impossible to protect the end of the route) without being able to see how it looked because of the darkness. And I went with my last resources and the chance to hit the ground if I fell at the end of the crux. Although the route is normally very safe for a traditional climb. <center><img src="fotos/clanky08/c080513b.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Bernardo Gimenez </font></i></center> <center><img src="fotos/clanky08/c080513c.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Bernardo Gimenez </font></i></center> A few days later, partnered by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas did the first free repeat of Itaca nel sole 5 pitches of (5, 6a+, 6c, 8a, 8b) The route was first all freed climbed by Christian Brenna. It's a very nice technical challenge of beautiful climbing Nico says. <i>Also on the hard pitches the protections are all fixed so it s not really a trad I had a great time exploring Orco valley mixing it all from bouldering, sport climbing to trad and multi pitch and there is still so much to explore. </i> <center><img src="fotos/clanky08/c080513d.jpg" border=0></center> <center><I><font color=braun> </font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver> foto by © Bernardo Gimenez </font></i></center> The photographer is Bernardo Gimenez - <b>http://www.bernardogimenez.com</b> <IMG src="fotos/clanky/minilogo_www.gif" border=0 align=left><b>Source: </b> Source website <b><A HREF=http://www.nicolasfavresse.com/spip.php?rubrique=7&id_article=72 Target=_blank>Nicolas Favresse</A></b>
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