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SP v ledolezení Saas Fee (24.01)
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Brief (obrp)3023(/obrp)This year the World Championship in climbing after moving from Marbela has moved to the other end of Spain to Avilés. After our Sunday's arrival we attended the opening ceremonial, which was a bit boring. Already the following day there were three qualification routes in lead climbing awaited for us.
Text From the Czech team we had two members - Tomas Mrazek (defender of the title from years 2003 and 2005), Martin Stranik, and our coach Helena Lipenska. Because of the huge number of men there were two qualification routes prepared. Both of us climbed in the same group. Tomas did not let anything under doubts and topped as well as other 5 experts. I approached to the top in about 3 meters, and it was enough for the 20th position in the group. The second day I had no choice and my aim was the top. That happened, but the route was not extra hard so there were 15 tops so my plan did not match. Mraza (Tomas Mrazek) just walked in the route as it would be 6c and went on to the semifinals. For me it was the 29th place. On the evening was our team strengthened by boulderers Silva Rajfova and Jiri "Jirous" Pribil. In Wednesday's qualification there were 5 from altogether number of 130 (men) and 110 (women). The men began again in the 2 groups. We got 5 minutes for solving the boulder problems. Mraza managed the first 4 (including the boulder problem No. 3, which had about only 6 tops), but "easy" No. 6 did not match him and because of the high number of attempts he did not continue and finished 33rd. I succeeded in the easier boulder problems OS (but in one I touched the holds from the ground and the attempt was lost), and it was enough together with all zones for continuing from the 15th position. Priba (Jiri Pribil) proved to overcome 2 boulder problems. This result although was enough for 87th place. The girls climbed afternoon and Helca (Helena Lipenska) had a bit cold, did not have her day and after 2 tops the gate to semifinals closed for her. Silva Rajfova managed better. She sent 5 boulder problems and it ensured her the semifinals from 9th position. On the evening the Czech and Slovak teams unified and organized the private party, from which Slovak friend Juro Repcik left quite green:)) The Friday was rest day for many of us, because the speed was on the schedule. We can not say it about Libor Hroza who went to speed finals from the 8th position. In play off schema he had the competitor from the 9th position, because there were 16 people altogether. Libor had good luck and after the fall of the competitor he was among the 8 bests. Although Libor had bad luck and in 1/4 finals he slipped and did not continue. His final result was nice 8th place. The surprise was that no Russian entered to finals. And experts from Venezuela and Hong Kong struggled for gold. The climber from Hong Kong won in the new World Record - 8.62. (obrc)3024(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - speed</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Helena Lipenská / www.tomasmrazek.cz</font></i></center> The D day for Mraza came on Saturday. On the morning semifinals took place and who wanted to finales, had to top. But Tomas looked in the route like he climbed some easy warm up for evening finals route. The surprising was success of home Mateoz Eric Lopez, who is only 16 years old. The hall became to be crowded for the finals at least. The routes however were not good set up and some of spectators rather read the magazines instead of watching the finals. At least up till Ramón Julian Puigblanque started climbing. He touched the next to the last hold (later proved that the hold was enough for the victory), the huge applause follows. Mraza climbs just after him... by the route in 8c he just walks up to 3/4.. then bad rest... he waves to the audience and it rewards him by applause... Mraza begins the last part, where he falls about 5 moves before the end. And yet Patxi Usobiaga overclimbs Tomas. On the evening there were given another set of the medals there. (obrc)3025(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - this no hand rest worthy: Ivan Kaurov</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Helena Lipenská / www.tomasmrazek.cz</font></i></center> (obrc)3026(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter defending</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Helena Lipenská / www.tomasmrazek.cz</font></i></center> (obrc)3015(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - Tomas Mrazek</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Cedric Larcher / Kairn.com</font></i></center> (obrc)3027(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - podium women obtížnost</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Helena Lipenská / www.tomasmrazek.cz</font></i></center> Well and at least there is the D day for me and Silva. There were only 4 boulder problems for us and they were much harder. I managed to top three of them, one of them OS. I reached twice the last one just under the top but I am not able to send it. After the finishing of it the organizers immediately took me for drug control, even I did not understand why. Well I do not go to finals, there is a plenty of better people... After the one hour of torture with filling of a cup to 75 ml I learned I was going to finals from the 6th position and my dream had already fulfilled. Silva was not able to copy me and she finished on 13th position after sending of 2 boulder problems. I enter the finals from the most advantageous position. Before the entering to the last boulder problem I already know, that I do not miss the podiums, because I climbed all of the boulders before and I know how the others managed. Favourites do not overcome the pressure of finals and do not succeed. After of many attempts on the last boulder problem I finally send the second move and finish to the top (later, I learned, that the route setter thought about my variant that it is - impossible). Because of the amount of attempts in the end I finish by the margin of one attempt as the 2nd. Awarding ceremony followes and then afterparty, from which we leave to hotel after 6 am. On 1 pm we are on the airport and wait for plain, that is 5 hours delayed. So of course that we could not catch the connection in Madrid, so overall it longed by 15 hours. (obrc)3028(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - Silva Rajfova</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Helena Lipenská / www.tomasmrazek.cz</font></i></center> (obrc)3029(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - Martin Stranik</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Helena Lipenská / www.tomasmrazek.cz</font></i></center> (obrc)3013(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - Martin Stranik</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Cedric Larcher / Kairn.com</font></i></center> (obrc)3030(/obrc) <center><I><font color=braun>World Championship 2007 Avilés - Martin Stranik</font></I></center> <center><i><font color=silver>photo by © Helena Lipenská / www.tomasmrazek.cz</font></i></center> The more photos by Helena Lipenska from World Championship on the web <b><a href=http://www.tomasmrazek.cz target=_blank>www.tomasmrazek.cz</a></b> <i>Translation by Czechclimbing.com team</i>
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