Sulov znam a je to super oblast. Je to od nas z Moravy kousek a je tam sposta dost dobre odjistenych cest. Kamaradi mi ale rikali,ze je tam zakaz lezeni zhruba ve stejnou dobu co v Moravskem krasu, takze asi do konce cervna. Nevite o tom nekdo?
Zapsal: Petr, 12:50:49 16.05.2002
Zakaz
zakaz je do 1.6. a plati pro oblast Javor, to znamena tabule, Vez na ohniskom a ty veze vzadu, kde jsou Schody do nebe a Eniky beniky. Presne to najdes na http://www.jamesak.sk/sprskalk.htm, kde je odkaz omezeni lezeni.
Lezení je omezeno v sektoru Tabula a Veža nad ohniskom kvůli ptákům (?) nevím přesně do kdy, ale určitě min do 1. května nebo června. Skály pod hradem, Brada, Mnich nemají omezení. Tolik co si pamatuji z loňské návštěvy Sůlova. Podrobnější info asi dle odkazů na slovenské servery.
Fota se mi moc líbí, ale postrádám u drtivé většiny obrázků na lezci stručný popisek - cesta Xxxxxyyy, obtížnost Z+, oblast (sektor) Qqqq. Hernajs je to tak těžký aby si autor snímku zapamatoval a sdělil fakta? Popisky typu "Labák, Levý břeh" akorát naserou, protože si člověk říká, to se mi líbí, to bych si vylezl, ale jak to má najít??
Ty jo staníku víš co to je práce? všechny to fotky popisovat? Některý hol popsaný jsou některý ne (někdy nejsou informace, někdy není síla). Jinak jsou všechny fotky od článků a z fota dne postupně doplňovány do fotogalerie, kde je většinou pipisků víc a navíc se dají fotky třídit dle oblasti atd. Pokud chcete někdo zodpovednej pomoci popisovat fotky ve fotogalerii, tak se ozvete a ja vam udelam pristup k administraci fotek.
Sory Hope, nemyslel jsem to zle ani jako kritiku, šlo o pocit. Když to na lezci uvidíš - "groah to je ale flák, to musím vylézt :-)" no a pak zamáčkneš "slzu" a řekneš si "to bude hokna než to na tom Levým břehu (Sůlově) najdu :-(" Rozhodně je paráda, že se tady ty obrázky objeví.
Zapsal: Staník, 14:31:08 16.05.2002
Robo
Neviem ci bola predlzena vynimka, jeden ochranar vravel ze bola, a ze od 1.6. to plati pre vsetky skalky. To, o ktorej vynimke rozpravate, ze Javor (tabula...) od 1.6. to je stara vynimka, ktorej vyprsala platnost. Vsetci cumime, pretoze James sa doteraz nevyjadril. Dokonca v starej vynimke bolo uvedene, ze lezenie je povolene len pre clenov Jamesu, nad cim nam ostava rozum stat.
Zapsal: , 16:05:29 16.05.2002
Sulov
Jo Na sulove je krasne.
A to ze se kvalifikace dost kolisa jsem si taky vsimnul.
Co se tyce omezeni tak se na to muzete kouknou na: http://www.jamesak.sk/sprskalk.htm
ale neni to moc aktualni.(stav ku dňu 1. 6. 2000)
Kdyz sem se byl pred nedavnem na tabuli podivat tak tam bylo sposta slovenskych lezcu. Ptalsem se proc nerespektuji omezeni. Odpoved- vsak fodtalistum taky nikdo nezakazuje hrat fotbal. Kdyz chceme lezt tak lezem.
No nevim moc se mi to nelibilo a tak sem sel pod hrad.
Prikladam clanek od mira Pialy. Neni spatny a ma neco dosebe.
Súľov náš každodenný I
Miro Piala
Ani neviem, ako mám tento článok definovať, či to je prosba, alebo upozornenie. Nuž, berte to ako chcete, ale mali by ste sa nad tým zamyslieť, pretože ak sa nespamätáte, tak budú problémy a nie len na Súľove.
O čo vlastne ide?
Zhrnul som to do štyroch bodov, hoci by toho bolo určite viac.
1. Po určitých dlhodobých rozhovoroch, usilí mnohých ľudí a ubezpečovaní, že horolezci su tí najposlednejší ľudia, čo prírode škodia, sa vybavila výnimka na lezenie v Súľovských skalách. Kompromis sa zvolil v tom, že sa budú dodržiavať časové zákazy v lokalite, že sa nebude bivakovať a stanovať pod skalami, že sa nebudú robiť nové ohniská, že.....
Áno, je toho dosť, čo sme my, horolezci dostali ako zákaz. No myslím si, že sú to úplne prirodzené veci z hľadiska ochrany, ktoré stoja za to, dodržiavať ich, pre krásne lezenie v Súľove.
Naša odpoveď na tieto zákazy? Do konca mája nemal byť v Súľove ani jeden horolezec. Namiesto toho, húronské návaly lezcov, stanovanie pod skalami, sranie po chodníkoch, zakladanie ohňov, revanie celú noc, až sa Jabloňovskému farárovi vlasy ježia........ Super nie? Však sme chudáci horolezci, ktorým neviem prečo všetko zakazujú, a ktorí to s prírodou myslia tak dobre, slušní a poriadkumilovní tvory.
2. Keď sa na predošlý problém zabudne, máme tu ďalší. A to je robenie nových ciest. Je krásne spraviť novú cestu, pekne vyborhákovanú, každé dva metre borháčik, očistenú od machov, od všetkej vegetácie, obitú od lokrov, a čo najbližšie pri turistickom chodníku. Nech každý vidí náš hrdinský čin. Klasifikácia za 3, alebo za 5?
A najlepšie by bolo, keby to bolo tak blízko chodníka, aby si nejaký ten ochranár vypichol oko na borháku, nech vidí, ako to s tou prírodou myslíme dobre. Veď tie borháky vlastne držia skalu pokope a očistená vegetácia vlastne zabraňuje hnitiu skál.
3. "Jej! To je krásna špára, alebo stienka. Spravím si tam novú cestu." A za dva dni sú tam borháky. Veď kamoš mi požičia vŕtačku. A obtiažnost? Aspoň 8-. Veď som nejaký ten borec. A čo som doteraz vyliezol? Možno 6, ale toto je určite aspoň 8-. Konečný dôsledok tejto novej cesty? Nuž lezci ako Lacko Králiček, Rudo Tefelner, Fero Hudek, Pišta Kuchár, Radko Hájek, Marcel a Marian Milovci, Ďuro Hreus, ........a aj ja, (určite je ich ešte viac), ktorí rozbiehali súľovské lezenie pred mnohými rokmi, a ktorí majú na konte mnoho prvovýstupov spravených odspodu s čokmi, hexami (viete vôbec, čo to je?), aby šetrili skalu, vyvaľuj oči pri nedeľňajšej prechádzke v Súľove. Ich niekdajšie prvovýstupy už nie sú ich prvovýstupmi. V ich cestách sú borháky a úplne iné názvy. Že to, čo oni liezli s čokmi za 6, 6+ je dnes 8-?!? Jasným príkladom tohto je cesta "Posledné prázdniny" na Školskej veži. Pôvodná klasifikácia je 6+, vylezená v roku 1986 L. Králičkom a R.Tefelnerom v kopačkách. A dnes? S pridaním ďalších istení 8-? Nechápem to, prečo každý rok sú klasifikácie a názvy prepisované inou farbou nejakými samozvanými odborníkmi na klasifikáciu. Aká farba to bude tento rok? Len tak pre srandu si pozrite pôvodnú klasifikačku a kedy a kým tieto cesty boli vylezené.
4. Pivko je dobrá vec. Veď, kto by si ho nedal po celodennom lezení na slnku. No počtom vypitých pív pribúda aj pocit uvoľnenosti a stúpa pocit sebavedomia a odrazu sa začne robiť zábava, ktorá je vlastne zábava len pre opitých ľudí a otravuje okolie. Že, čo to tu píšem? Nuž napríklad ukradnúť máj a doniesť ho na skaly je podľa mňa prinajmenšom hlúposť, ktorá provokuje. Jabloňovci a Súľovci začínajú mať toho dosť. Majú dosť hulákania, parkovania aut, kradnutia úrody na poliach. Ak by ste si neráčili všimnúť, začínajú sa brániť. Čím? Vypúšťajú kolesá, rozbíjajú autá, agresívne reagujú na každého, čo má batoh a karimatku na ňom, sťažujú sa farárovi, starostovi. "Joj, čo to robia? Čo to na nás rozprávajú? Veď sme to len my - chudáci horolezci."
Zo všetkého najviac neviem pochopiť, prečo toto všetko dovolia ostatným robiť hlavne domáci páni lezci zo Súľova, Bytče. Vám ešte nedošlo, že keď zakážu lezenie v Súľove, tak budete trpieť hlavne vy? Sedíte si na vedení? Skúste, vy, ísť na piesky do Teplíc, kde sa platí ešte aj vstup a postaviť si tam stan pod skalou, spraviť oheň. Skúste to v Moravskom krase, alebo na Suškách, alebo niekde v zahraničí. Prečo si necháte robiť bordel vo vlastnom rajóne?
Takže to zhrniem.
Bod 1.) Dodržujte všetky zákazy a príkazy. Nebivakujte a nestanujte pod skalami. Podľa možnosti nerobte oheň. Kemp je v Súľove za kostolom 10 minút od krčmi ZADARMO.
Bod 2.) Neprovokujte robením nových ciest pri turistických chodníkoch čistením skál od vegetácie. Kašlite na to. Je dosť iných možností, kde sa môžete vyšantiť a kde to nikoho nedráždi. Fakt to nestojí za tie trojkové cesty.
Bod 3.) Ked sa rozhodnete robiť novú cestu, spýtajte sa najskôr správcu skál, alebo si pozrite aspoň sprievodcu zo Súľovských skál, ktorého spravil F. HUDEK, a v ktorom sú cesty vylezené do roku 1991. Potom sa vám nestane, že vyleziete už dávno vylezenú cestu. Nerušte pôvodnú klasifikáciu ciet. Nemyslite si, keď ste to vyliezli s ťažkosťami, že je to ťažké. Ste len slabí.
Bod 4.) Správajte sa slušne a úctivo. Tí ľudia nás tam trpia. Nekradnite zemiaky a úrodu na poli a nerobte hovädiny, ako je napríklad kradnutie mája. To je všetko. Zdá sa vám to nemožné dodrzať?
Toto všetko som napísal aj preto, že nedávno horel les v Súľove na Brade. Nie je to sranda, pretože taký požiar sa nedá len tak prehliadnuť a je úplne jasné, že ochranári si zamerajú prvých horolezcov, čo sa už aj stalo a každú sobotu a nedeľu tam chodia kontroly. Porozmýšľajte o tom. Hlavne vy, domáci lezci. A v prvej rade správcovia oblasti: F. Prcín.
TABUĽA - V stena
Diagonála, L. Králiček - F. Hudek- Š. Smrekovský, 83, 5+ (po novom Nikotínove blues, 7)
Fakíri variant, L. Králiček - J. Milo, 83, 5- (po novom Šeherezáda, 6+)
Krátenie dychu, L. Králiček. - F. Hudek, 83, 5+ (po novom 6)
Guntherova cesta, S. Martinka, 87, 8 (po novom 9-)
Teória tlaku, L. Králiček - F. Hudek, 83, 6+ (po novom nejaký iný názov a 7+)
TABUĽA - Z stena
Bombička, S. Kuchár, 87, 8+ (9-)
Adrenalín, R. Hájek, 84, 7+ (8)
Jesenné matury, L. Králiček - F. Hudek, 83, 7 (7+)
Špekulantská, L. Králiček - F. Hudek, 83, 6+, (7)
Hrana platne, L. Králiček - M. Milo, 83, 5, (5+ a je tam uvedený iný názov
Celkom pekná, D. Hreus – D. Kollárová, 86, 5 (5+)
Stredom platne, F. Hudek – Š. Smrekovský -A. Milová, 83, 4+ (je to premenované na Mňam, mňam)
Mirove prebudenie, Š. Kuchár - M. Kuchár, 83, 6 (6+)
VEŽA NAD OHNISKOM - JV stena
Kolo kolo mlynské, Š. Kuchár, 85, 6, (8-)
Sporel, R. Tefelner - L. Králiček, 85, 7, (8-)
Žltá mašľa, S. Martinka, 88 , 7- (8-)
Bytčiansky ležiak, D. Kultán, 86, 8+, (9-)
VEŽA NAD OHNISKOM - JZ stena
Disko, Š. Kuchár, 86, 8, (8+/9-)
Špára generácií, Š. Kuchár, 84, 7, (8-)
ŠKOLSKÁ VEŽA -V stena
Za rohom, F. Hudek, 85, 5, (7- a premenovaná na Kaje taje)
Posledné prázdniny, R. Tefelner - L. Králiček, 86, 6+, (8-)
Rozcvička, L. Králiček - R. Tefelner, 87, 6-, (6)
SOKOLIA VEŽA - JZ stena
Na pamiatku Braňovi, M. Piala, 90, 9-, (9)
Eniky - beniky, D. Kultán, 87, 8+, (9-)
Š. Harvan, 87, 6, (7-, Schody do neba)
Stará cesta, 3, (4, Šťastná 13)
VETERNÁ - Z stena
Južný komín, L. Králiček, 83, 4, (4+)
CD, Š. Kuchár, 90, 8+, (9-)
Domino, D. Kultán, 88, 8, (8+)
Limonáda, M. Kuchár, 83, 5, (6+)
Stok, D. Kultán, 88, 9, (9+/10-)
Keď som pred dvoma mesiacmi napísal článok Súľov náš každodenný, ukázalo sa, že neostal bez povšimnutia. Vtedy som si nemyslel, že sa ľady pohnú a ľudia, ktorých sa to týka výstupia z anonymity. Dnes možem s dobrým pocitom konštatovať, že sa podarilo spraviť prvý krok, a zišli sme sa ako partia v Súľove pod skalami. Bolo to stretnutie domácich lezcov v Bytče, Súľova, ktorí tam teraz robia nové cesty so mnou, ktorý som zastupoval staršiu generáciu lezcov.
Vysvetlili sme si veci a jednotlivé postoje k lezeniu a myslím, že sme našli v mnohom spoločnú reč. Cesty sme presši a upravili klasifikáciu. Tá klasifikácia nie je výplod jedného človeka. Je to odpoveď piatich, šiestich lezcov a kde sme nevedeli posúdiť, tak sme brali do uváhy rozhovory ostatných o obtiažnosti cesty. Pozerali sme aj na pôvodnú klasifikáciu podľa starého sprievodcu. Nové cesty, ktoré sú spravené za posledné tri roky, sú z 90 % totožné s pôvodnou cestou z rokov 1983 - 90. Je to ťažko posúdiť, kadiaľ išla presne pôvodná cesta a čo sa chytalo a čo nie. Dohodli sme sa, že nové cesty v starých rušit nebudeme, čo by bola aj pekná blbosť. No v budúcnosti sa nesmú takéto veci opakovať. Chceme tomu zabrániť tým, že sa budú vypisovať kartičky na prvovýstupy tak ako je to na pieskoch. Bude tam meno, klubová príšlusnosť, dátum začatia prvovýstupu, stena alebo veža, počet a použité istenie, ukončenie prvovýstupu. Doterajšie nové cesty, ktoré boli spravené v starých budú v sprievodcovi v podstate uvedené ako samostatné cesty nech nie je ešte väčší chaos. To je prvý krok. Do jesene by sme chceli nájst skutočného správcu skál. Nekompromisného, čo by obhájil svoje právomoci aj na daných urádoch a hlavne medzi bordelármi. Vôbec to nebude lezec.
Potom sa vyrieši aj problém so stanovaním pod skalami. Aj teraz zase zdôrazňujem. Nebivakujte tam a nebudťe takí drzí, že si tam postavíte ešte aj stan. Ste v chránenom území, kde je to prísne zakázané. Na záver sa ospravedlňujem Ferovi Prcínovi, ktorého som uviedol v predošlom článku ako správcu skál. Až teraz som sa konečne dozvedel, ze on to už nerobí minimálne dva roky. Kde to bolo uvedené? Vychádzal som z toho, že na orientačnej tabuli, ktorá bola donedávna v Súľove pod Hranou, bolo uvedené jeho meno ako správcu skál.
Zapsal: Cesta, 08:36:54 17.05.2002
Chvála
Že je to dobrý článek a pěkné fotky už omílat nechci. To zde napsal každý druhý, ale musím podotknout, že jsem na Sulově už byl a je to paráda. Nádherná lezecká oblast, kde si určitě každý vybere (svou obtížnost a možná i hospodu...). Navíc si myslím, že je tato oblast velice dobře odjištěna (doporučuji začátečníkům - samozřejmě pokročilým a ne pouze překližkovým lezcům, kteří na skalách nikdy nebyli). PS: Lozte, lozte a lozte... příroda, hory a skály už neúprosně volají..!
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