Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

PRÁCE PRO LEZCE
Fasádní Servis
Books
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály
Křest knihy Perly východu
Vyšla kniha Laviny v Česku

Competitions
SP boulder Keqiao (CHN) (18.04)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Wujiang (CHN) (25.04)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Indonesie (02.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Šindel 12319
2.Votoček 12312
3.Trojan 12262
Bouldry:
1.Konečný 11275
2.Volf 11125
3.Stráník 10906
Hory:
1.Groš 7855
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324

Results
SP v ledolezení Saas Fee (24.01)
MČR v ledezení na rychlost 2025 (15.01)
Kontinentální pohár a MČR v ledolezení (07.12)

Diary
5683 lezců
1151150 cest
Nové přelezy:
Capricorn 8c+
In Tre E'M 7b
Regalo Di 7b
Il Ladro D 8a
Digmata Gr 8a
Le Batôn D 7b
Metronom 9+/10-
Boys Are B 9
Dyonisos 9+
Power Slav 9-

Indoors
Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany
SAUNA - Plzeň
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň

Shops
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Greenspit

Hardest trad crack in Europe

Nicolas Favresse repeated  Greenspit  a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe. At the end of two days of effort Nico managed to repeat the route on his 7th try placing the protection on the send.

The route consisted on a 12-meter roof crack with lots of tricky crack climbing moves mixing hand, fists and finger jams. The route was first redpointed by the strong Swiss crack specialist, Didier Berthod, and features in the movie First ascents.

In Nico's word:  This route is truly fantastic and very unique for European climbing. I can't believe I am the first person to repeat this. It's so classic!



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


It was a perfect send. The day was over but there was still just enough light to give a very last try. I was already feeling a little bit tired but I wanted to give it all a last chance. When I arrived at the crux the right piece of pro slipped of my hands and fell to the ground while trying to place it. For a moment I thought it was over then I looked on my harness and saw my last pro I hesitated for a while then turned to my belayer and said: I' ll just go for it!  I placed my very last pro (making it impossible to protect the end of the route) without being able to see how it looked because of the darkness. And I went with my last resources and the chance to hit the ground if I fell at the end of the crux.  Although the route is normally very safe for a traditional climb. 



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez




foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


A few days later, partnered by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas did the first free repeat of Itaca nel sole 5 pitches of (5, 6a+, 6c, 8a, 8b) The route was first all freed climbed by Christian Brenna.
 
It's a very nice technical challenge of beautiful climbing  Nico says.

Also on the hard pitches the protections are all fixed so it s not really a trad I had a great time exploring Orco valley mixing it all from bouldering, sport climbing to trad and multi pitch and there is still so much to explore.    



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


The photographer is Bernardo Gimenez - http://www.bernardogimenez.com

Source:

Source website Nicolas Favresse

Nicolas Favresse    [edit] 09:09 20.05.2008Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:
Zahrádka
Sigi, 7A Fb FA
 Routes:
All routes (180916)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Yo Sobreviví A Los 80 7a Llíber
Perla Azurra - Tunnel 4+ Val Gardena
Sonnentanz 7+ Val Gardena
Flauto Magico 9 Val Gardena
Le Batôn De Mon Ami 7b Llíber
Latest comments:
Hraniční Obluda 9+/10- Roviště
Pan Y Circo 7b+ Llíber
Separate Reality VIIIc Ostrov
Uno 2€ Tre 3€ 8a+ San Vito Lo Capo
Cabalgando La Serpiente 7b+ Siurana

 New in discussion:
Morocco Family Tours | Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner |

 Latest comments:
Re: Mr.hi | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr.hi | Aktuelle Situation | Adrspach | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] | Replica Baume & Mercier -australia migliori qualitĂ  replica | Borse Prada viaggio | John |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (4)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.