The new route by Markus Bock, which could be harder than Action Directe and also be the hardest route in Frankenjura, has the name: Corona (11+).

The German web climbing.de writes it. The author the firstly nonamed route Markus Bock (Germany), who climbed the famous Gullich´s Action Direct in 2005, climbed the new ascent on 5 October 2006 and suggested difficulty 11+ UIAA (9a+ Fr).
Originaly it was the project set by Andi Hofmann in 1993 in Frankenjura (valley Ailsbachtal). The new route leads via 10 moves together along Burn for You, and than folows the hardest part - 6 bouldering moves in 8b Fb and without rest the finishing in 15 moves in 8b.

Another elite climber Iker Pou (Basque, ESP), who climbed Action Direct in 2000, came immediately to try the new route, and he thinks it is "very hard  9a".

Look at climbing.de.

The first article on Czechclimbing.com about the new route: Frankenjura: The new route harder than Action Direct?.


Burn for you, 11-, Adam Ondra climbing (photo by Aleš Rozsypal)


Iker Pou warming up in the route Rezession 93 (8 UIAA), Rabenstein, Frankenjura, on the oposite side of the valey against the sector Burn for you, before the attempts in Corona 11+ (photo by Standa Holec)